How would you go about making this cut repeatably?

[leemkule]

I'm making some wardrobes within a pitched ceiling.

I have access to a track saw, parallel guides that go up to 1125mm, a rail square and some wasteside jigs.

I'm wondering if anyone would give me advice on how they'd go about making the sides of the carcass? I need to make 6, I obviously need them to be the same size, but the exact dimension doesn't matter as much as the consistency in size.

Anyone got any tips about how they'd go about getting these all the same? Particularly the angled cut.

Cheers.

 

[Agent_zed]

Do you have access to a router?

I'd probably look at doing the first board as a template with the tracksaw and then cut the others roughly to size by a few mms and then use the router with a flushcut bit to follow the template board and trim each board in turn.

 

[Fitzroy]

As Agent_zed said or if no router then use the first panel as a fence for your tracksaw. It'll give you the same angle but you risk a fractionally different total length if you get the offset wrong.

 

[paulm]

I'd be a bit surprised if the ceiling and floor were exactly the same height difference across the width you are building in ?

May be measure at different points along the width and cut them individually to fit, or save a lot of trouble by cutting to the lowest height less an allowance of 5 or 10mm say and attach trim mouldings/strips after if wanted ?

To get them all to desired sizes you just need to measure and mark accurately ! Use a sharp fine pencil so the marked cutting line is not so broad as to introduce errors, allow for the width of the saw blade when setting it up. Could make a layout rod also to aid with consistent marking out, a strip of timber, ply, mdf or whatever is to hand, mark out key measurements on that and use to transcribe onto each panel which should then all be the same.

 

[pulleyt]

My approach would be to get the rectangular pieces cut and then use a story stick with your 1400 and 2162 measurements and use that to transfer the measurements and line up the track to the marks.
Alternatively, cut the six rectangles and lay them on top of each other. Mark the top board and transfer the mark down on the edges of the lower boards. Again this will give you consistent marks to which you can line up your track.

 

[Bingy man]

Along the lines of @paulm above if you cut all the panels the same and there are discrepancies between the ceiling and the floor you could end up having to pack up or even patch to make up any difference. Let’s assume the angle is consistent then cut the panels longer to accommodate any difference so instead of cutting to 1400 add 50 mm for a little wiggle room . IMO you can then use the first panel as a template for the following panel etc etc

 

[leemkule]

Do you have access to a router?

I'd probably look at doing the first board as a template with the tracksaw and then cut the others roughly to size by a few mms and then use the router with a flushcut bit to follow the template board and trim each board in turn.

That's such a great idea I'm so glad I asked, I do have access to a 1/2 inch plug router and 1/4 inch trim router.

It's oak veneered MDF, is there any particular flush cut bits that you would use with this material, also would I be better using the 1/2 or 1/4 inch?

 

[leemkule]

I'd be a bit surprised if the ceiling and floor were exactly the same height difference across the width you are building in ?

May be measure at different points along the width and cut them individually to fit, or save a lot of trouble by cutting to the lowest height less an allowance of 5 or 10mm say and attach trim mouldings/strips after if wanted ?

To get them all to desired sizes you just need to measure and mark accurately ! Use a sharp fine pencil so the marked cutting line is not so broad as to introduce errors, allow for the width of the saw blade when setting it up. Could make a layout rod also to aid with consistent marking out, a strip of timber, ply, mdf or whatever is to hand, mark out key measurements on that and use to transcribe onto each panel which should then all be the same.

No they aren't but that's accounted for in my design, which I should really have shown when I asked the question. I have a 100mm gap at the bottom and the cabinets will be supported using adjustable hafele axilo feet as the floor drops a few mm left to right) and 60mm gap at the top which will be covered by scribed skirt / whatever the top piece is called.

So really I just want to make sure the carcasses all as bang on the same dimension

 

[RobinBHM]

just mark your boards at 2162 and 1400 and go to the pencil mark each time............a professional carpenter wouldnt think of doing it any other way, you should be able to get consistent results every time

You need to be sure the splinter guard strips are in good condition and you need to be confident you can position the track in the same place each time to line up with your pencil marks.



you could clamp them together clamp them together in pairs if you like so each carcase is exactly the same