How to?

[Vulcan]

I’m making something like this and I’m wondering about the best way to fix the upright to the base?
Options are:
1) Wood screws from the base (with or without adhesive) into the upright (worst option in my view)
2) Pocket screws (2) through the upright down into the base.
3) Bore a hole (s) into the upright for two M6 steel cross dowels and use machine screws through the base.

Any other ideas?

 

[TRITON]

Will this be a temporary fitting, or something permanent ?

If temporary then maybe a male/female plate, or which im sure some proprietary made steel fitting will be available somewhere.

 

[Eshmiel]

Dowels, dominoes but perhaps best and strongest, a wedged through tenon on the bottom of the upright into a mortise in the base.

You could do through dowels or dominoes instead and wedge them, too - although the wedging in any of the three is belt & braces.

 

[Jacob]

Looks a bit useless with that little base. What's it for? If you held it in a vice you wouldn't need a base at all - just extend the back plate a little further.

 

[johnnyb]

2x 5mm wood screws maybe 60mm. Making a clearance hole in the base. The other methods would tend to split the base or the upright. A more finicky way would be a central cross dowel and 2 ×4mm screws. With washer heads.

 

[johnnyb]

Is it for fly tieing

 

[Hugh M.]

A leather stitching pony?

 

[JSW]

Splines coupled with a double glueing to the end grain, IE apply glue, leave 10 mins for the wood glue to penetrate the end grain, reapply glue, cramp

 

[Vulcan]

Is it for fly tieing

No, it’s for stitching things like leather. The base allows it to clamp to a bench/table. The original isn’t jointed so I’ve discounted that as I think it could work loose over time. I perhaps should have said that I’m leaning towards cross dowels and bolts as it can easily be re-tightened if it gets loose over time. All the holes need to line up precisely though for a good fit.

Another thought is a couple of wood dowels and a single bolt/cross dowel.

 

[kinverkid]

I've made two. One to sit on when I'm in the garden and one that attaches to a table top which is similar to the photo but with a clamp. They are both screwed in place with a single bolt so they swivel which helps if you are using it to sew.

 

[Jacob]

No, it’s for stitching things like leather. ...

Looks a bit useless. A proper stitching pony as per @Hugh M. above much better, otherwise known as a saddlers clam, but they come in shapes and sizes to suit. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...st-thing-you-made.81798/page-241#post-1448789

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Mortise and tenon joint with glue would be my method

 

[Hugh M.]

I have one, although not as nice looking as that one. I mostly use it for stitching up knife sheaths.
Mine came with the board mentioned above that you’re supposed to sit on. I took it off and just stand whilst it is clamped in the vice. I find this works for me the best.

 

[kinverkid]

My clamp version.

 

[Jasper42]

Not great photos but I made this a long time ago for a friend who does leather work. I used a hinge to secure it to the base (nicer one on the finish item)to lock it off a bolt and off centre handle, with the same again fixing it to the stool so it can be turned, locked off or removed to use on a table. Still in use today and built with what I had available.

 

[Vulcan]

Thanks for some of the comments. I’ve made all of it except the base so too late to change the design. I’m looking for a bit more wood of a suitable size for the base.

The idea of the design is that it can be clamped in two ways.

 

[Cooper]

Dovetail joint, tail on the upright, pins on the base.

 

[Chubber]

Are we over thinking it? Two 10mm dowels and a long (50-60mm) 5mm screw drilled carefully for, with 2-part epoxy would hold very well.

After all, if I understand the process correctly, the lacing holes are pierced with an awl using both hands, the clamp merely keeps the material in alignment.

 

[ChaiLatte]

The idea of the design is that it can be clamped in two ways.

The design is poor. In the photo, where the flat face of the clamp is sitting, another piece of wood could be used that would gusset the upright and allow fixings at 90 degrees to those from the base of the upright.

When you are pushing or pulling at the top of it with your needle and thread, there is a lot of bending force at the base and the current design is not well executed to resist that (compare its strength in the vertical and horizontal positions as shown).

If it was not already made, a thicker single piece base with a notch in it would achieve the same aim.

It could be clamped exactly as shown, but would require the clamp to be opened up slightly more.

 

[Vulcan]

After all, if I understand the process correctly, the lacing holes are pierced with an awl using both hands, the clamp merely keeps the material in alignment.

In many cases the holes are pre-punched before the material is put in the clamp.

You assume that a commercial product has been well designed. Thinking about it further though I doubt very much if I’ll lay the unit down so I can make a larger base for it.

Edit: I needed to source some wood for the base today so I’m going to cut a shallow slot in it and secure the two parts with an M8 stainless steel cross dowel (once I’ve made it) and an M8 socket screw.