How to tension a Kity 613 bandsaw

[Garden Shed Projects]

Hi,

I am new to ukworkshop.co.k so apologies if this isn't in the correct thread.

I bought a Kity 613 band saw from Ebay a couple of weeks ago and am finding it a fine machine. It came with a number of blades and have got it working reasonably well.

To set the blade up it is recommended to have the teeth hang over the wheel by 2/3 of the depth of the teeth. I have managed to dial this in by eye as the Kity doesn't appear to have any tension guide that I can see.

I have had a bit of trouble with the narrower blades, 1/4" and 3/8", wider blades seem ok. If I set them up by eye correctly (?) on the top wheel they seem to hang off the bottom wheel a fair bit more and on a few occasions have popped off the wheels. I am assuming that they are over tensioned as they go with a bit of a bang. Can any one shed any light.

 

[Dazed]

I am new to ukworkshop.co.k so apologies if this isn't in the correct thread.

Welcome, I'm new too!.

I bought a Kity 613 band saw from Ebay a couple of weeks ago and am finding it a fine machine.

I have had a bit of trouble with the narrower blades, 1/4" and 3/8", wider blades seem ok. If I set them up by eye correctly (?) on the top wheel they seem to hang off the bottom wheel a fair bit more and on a few occasions have popped off the wheels. I am assuming that they are over tensioned as they go with a bit of a bang. Can any one shed any light.

I have that saw too from new but haven't had that problem. I don't generally use 1/4 blades though. Have you found the bottom wheel tracking adjustment? I haven't had to touch mine for a long time so can't remember how it's done. I'm sure it should appear in the manual.

The loud bang when a blade does let go is normal when tensioned. I've always loosened tension when finished.
Steve

 

[Chippymint]

I've had this machine for years. The original tyre are flat tyres and as you say blade teeth are supposed to overhanging the tyre.

The problem is, as the tyre ages, they become softer and you may struggle to hold blade position and have effective tension. This problem is exagerated when fitting blades 3/8ths and below and they will just slip off and may very well spoil your wood or indeed hurt you or damage your machine but without doubt damage your blade.

Ideally consider changing the tyres to camber ones where the blade assumes a more central position. DB Keighley (Dave), based in Leeds, will fit new tyres. I had the same problem as you but a long time ago. I had a chat with Dave. He suggested I place blades more centrally and replace the tyres if needed. This is what I did and the tyres are still good.

I would add that I adopted to set up my bandsaw machines based on the advise shown in Alex Snodgrass YouTube videos. Follow Alex's way and you won't go far wrong.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

I have do

I've had this machine for years. The original tyre are flat tyres and as you say blade teeth are supposed to overhanging the tyre.

The problem is, as the tyre ages, they become softer and you may struggle to hold blade position and have effective tension. This problem is exagerated when fitting blades 3/8ths and below and they will just slip off and may very well spoil your wood or indeed hurt you or damage your machine but without doubt damage your blade.

Ideally consider changing the tyres to camber ones where the blade assumes a more central position. DB Keighley (Dave), based in Leeds, will fit new tyres. I had the same problem as you but a long time ago. I had a chat with Dave. He suggested I place blades more centrally and replace the tyres if needed. This is what I did and the tyres are still good.

I would add that I adopted to set up my bandsaw machines based on the advise shown in Alex Snodgrass YouTube videos. Follow Alex's way and you won't go far wrong.

Thanks for the info. My concern has been damaging the tyre is I set up with no over hang and they look on pretty good condition to my eye, no bits missing and fairly sharp on the corners with no visible ridges.
I will try withe blade a bit more centralised and monitor tyre ware.

 

[Chippymint]

I have do

Thanks for the info. My concern has been damaging the tyre is I set up with no over hang and they look on pretty good condition to my eye, no bits missing and fairly sharp on the corners with no visible ridges.
I will try withe blade a bit more centralised and monitor tyre ware.

That's sounds a good plan. I don't think it matters if you do have marks where the teeth will run as if you follow Mr Snodgrasses advice no matter what blade you fit it will always run in the same position. Seriously, check out his videos; I don't think you will regret it.

Good luck.

 

[Sideways]

One thing I learnt when I had one of these it that you need to adjust the tension and the upper tracking handle as a pair. A little of one followed by a little of the other then repeat. This was because, at least on mine, the position that the blade tracked on the wheel varied with tension.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

One thing I learnt when I had one of these it that you need to adjust the tension and the upper tracking handle as a pair. A little of one followed by a little of the other then repeat. This was because, at least on mine, the position that the blade tracked on the wheel varied with tension.

I have found this also. You are not able to adjust either singularly as one effects the other. I assumed this to be normal practice.

 

[baldkev]

Hi garden shed, welcome to the forum.

I too have the 613. I had to replace the tyres and motor when I got it ( it hadn't been used for years )

Now im used to setting it up, mine tracks well, but with the larger blades it tends to wander in anything over 2" oak ( going with the grain ). The tensioner is at its max ( tracking good, spins by hand easily )
I think the blade is about a 1/2"? Will measure it next time im there.

Any ideas?
P.s Sorry for hijacking the thread!!!

 

[Chippymint]

Hi garden shed, welcome to the forum.

I too have the 613. I had to replace the tyres and motor when I got it ( it hadn't been used for years )

Now im used to setting it up, mine tracks well, but with the larger blades it tends to wander in anything over 2" oak ( going with the grain ). The tensioner is at its max ( tracking good, spins by hand easily )
I think the blade is about a 1/2"? Will measure it next time im there.

Any ideas?
P.s Sorry for hijacking the thread!!!

Set up your saw as I've said earlier using the logics of Alex Snodgrass YouTube videos. It is excellent advice.

I've used and set up many 613's. If you have maxed out the blade tensioner adjustment then there is something seriously wrong and don't use it until you sort the problem.

I would remove the blade and make sure the adjustment mechanism is free to travel to both end stops and the tilt mechanism can tilt to its end stops. These do glog up with dust etc over-time. Free everything off and coat all threads and sliding surface with a thin smear of machine oil. Make sure the blade is the correct length - it has been known for blades to be made incorrectly.

With a correct blade fitted and set-up properly there should be ample spare adjustment.

 

[JAW911]

One thing I learnt when I had one of these it that you need to adjust the tension and the upper tracking handle as a pair. A little of one followed by a little of the other then repeat. This was because, at least on mine, the position that the blade tracked on the wheel varied with tension.

Yes exactly. I found this too.

 

[Dazed]

I'd be a bit concerned running the blade centrally on the wheel on a Kity. There's no crown on the tyre unlike most other saws. Usually the crown allows for minimal pressure on the inside teeth set when the blade is central. While I haven't tried doing so, so should probably keep quiet, I could easily see it contributing to blade wander.

If the blade settles into vastly different positions on top and bottom wheels then barring shot bearings, perhaps investigate a co-planar wheel adjustment? A few mm difference is normal.
Steve

 

[Chippymint]

I'd be a bit concerned running the blade centrally on the wheel on a Kity. There's no crown on the tyre unlike most other saws. Usually the crown allows for minimal pressure on the inside teeth set when the blade is central. While I haven't tried doing so, so should probably keep quiet, I could easily see it contributing to blade wander.

If the blade settles into vastly different positions on top and bottom wheels then barring shot bearings, perhaps investigate a co-planar wheel adjustment? A few mm difference is normal.
Steve

Your right on 99% of saws Steve. I've suggested my thoughts based on what happens to the tyres on Kitys over time. The compound goes very soft in bandsaw terms and placing blades more centrally should not alter tooth set. This said, the blade must be set up correctly and if done so blade tension should be just enough to stop slippage - far too many over-tension them.

If this had been a different saw I would not suggest it. But as I've set up many of these, all having the same problem of 'tired tyres'. Doing it has not been a problem and it sorts out the problem of blades coming off. Ideally when the tyres get to this stage they should be replaced, as I've said at the very beginning.

 

[Dazed]

If this had been a different saw I would not suggest it. But as I've set up many of these, all having the same problem of 'tired tyres'. Doing it has not been a problem and it sorts out the problem of blades coming off.

Thanks, I'll bear it in mind then. I think I bought my saw around 1988 but it stayed at home rather than being used in the workshop, so has only had light duty. Maybe my tyres haven't got too soft yet? I don't use 1/4in blades but 3/8in seem fine. Famous last words!
Steve

 

[baldkev]

Set up your saw as I've said earlier using the logics of Alex Snodgrass YouTube videos. It is excellent advice.

I've used and set up many 613's. If you have maxed out the blade tensioner adjustment then there is something seriously wrong and don't use it until you sort the problem.

I would remove the blade and make sure the adjustment mechanism is free to travel to both end stops and the tilt mechanism can tilt to its end stops. These do glog up with dust etc over-time. Free everything off and coat all threads and sliding surface with a thin smear of machine oil. Make sure the blade is the correct length - it has been known for blades to be made incorrectly.

With a correct blade fitted and set-up properly there should be ample spare adjustment.

I will be up there tomorrow, so will check the mechanisms and follow the video on YouTube ( im pretty sure i did the snodgrass instructions when i first set it up, although i did watch a LOT of b/s videos )

Thanks

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

I watched the Snodgras video last night. He is a dab hand with deer, I assume he’s done that a few times before.

I will have a go over the weekend and see if it improves things. I am conscious that the Kity wheel has no crown so hopefully I won’t get too much drift. I was concerned that the teeth would cut up the surface of the tyre and hadn’t really considered the set of the teeth would have an effect on the line of the cut.

If I get no joy will have to bite the bullet and get some new tyres.

I found this thread really useful thanks to all contributors.

 

[Dazed]

Thought I'd just go and look at my bandsaw. Top wheel has the 3/8in blade with teeth overhung as normal, but bottom wheel:-

a) is covered in aluminium swarf from abut 5 years ago and never properly cleaned off!
b) has blade running just inside the tyre edge

So since it cuts just fine, and doesn't wander - teeth on tyre is not a problem!
BTW the tyres are quite hard.
Steve

 

[Fergie 307]

Hi garden shed, welcome to the forum.

I too have the 613. I had to replace the tyres and motor when I got it ( it hadn't been used for years )

Now im used to setting it up, mine tracks well, but with the larger blades it tends to wander in anything over 2" oak ( going with the grain ). The tensioner is at its max ( tracking good, spins by hand easily )
I think the blade is about a 1/2"? Will measure it next time im there.

Any ideas?
P.s Sorry for hijacking the thread!!!

You shouldn't be at the max tensioner adjustment unless you have the wrong size blade or there is something wrong. When you get wander have you dropped the top guide right down to the wood. You want to get it as close as you can whilst still maintaining clearance, so the unsupported length of the blade is as short as possible. Also make sure the lower guide under the table is set up correctly, people often ignore this.

 

[Fergie 307]

Thought I'd just go and look at my bandsaw. Top wheel has the 3/8in blade with teeth overhung as normal, but bottom wheel:-

a) is covered in aluminium swarf from abut 5 years ago and never properly cleaned off!
b) has blade running just inside the tyre edge

So since it cuts just fine, and doesn't wander - teeth on tyre is not a problem!
BTW the tyres are quite hard.
Steve

I have a Kity, bought at a garage sale for £30. It is only really used for metal cutting. The tyres do get swarf embedded in them but it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effect. I run fine tooth blades, 24tpi x 1/2, in the centre of the wheels. Larger sizes with the teeth off the edge. Brilliant machine and has never given me any trouble at all in about 15 years.

 

[baldkev]

You shouldn't be at the max tensioner adjustment unless you have the wrong size blade or there is something wrong. When you get wander have you dropped the top guide right down to the wood. You want to get it as close as you can whilst still maintaining clearance, so the unsupported length of the blade is as short as possible. Also make sure the lower guide under the table is set up correctly, people often ignore this.

Hi, i didnt get time to look at it today, my thicknesser adjustment has siezed up and i lost a lot of time trying to get it free will have to tilt the the machine up somehow and get at the mechanism.

Yes i have the top guide adjusted down to about 10mm above the cut usually and i had to make new cool blocks from oak as the originals were trashed. I actually bought a kit with a bearing guide set for the lower set, but it doesnt quite fit, i need to do some mods for that....

I believe the blades are correct, i bought a couple from tuffsaws when I got the saw up and running. I had considered fitting an extra tyre on the top which would give me more play, but as suggested, i need to actually check the adjuster goes fully up and down.

Thanks for posting

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

I have also bought a couple of tuff saw blades and found them a much higher quality than the blades that came with the saw. Will definitely buy more of them as required.

I was going to make some blade guides and was curious on the general opinion of the best material to use.

I have some beech and oak available. I also have a bit of solid grade laminate/ trespass does any one have a view on whether it would be suitable?