How long?

[Nads]

I notice there is a lot of debate but what brand of handsaw to get, whether its LN, Adria, Lee & Roberts or PAX. But regardless of make, what’s people’s opinion on which length of saw to get in terms of Dovetail & Tenon saws.

For dovetail saws – should it be 8 or 10” and should it be X-cut or Rip?
For Tenon saws – should it be 10, 12 or 14?

What’s your choice?

 

[Alf]

Oooooo, plenty of potential for difference of opinion here...

DT saw: I've used both 8" and 10" and I can't decide on a favourite. It comes down more to the individual saw in my case. Either way I favour rip.

Tenon: Better call it a back saw or else we might get the "what size a tenon saw should really be" debate.. I find 14" too heavy (being a weedy girlie) and 10" can sometimes let you down for capacity, so better plump for the 12" then, hadn't I?

Of course really you need one of each size, rip and crosscut... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

For dovetail saws – should it be 8 or 10” and should it be X-cut or Rip?

Mainly RIP (I did a special at 8 degrees fleam which was "interesting").

Length and TPI ? Depends on you, and the size of your work

Bit like "how big should a workbench be"

BugBear

 

[Rob Lee]

(snip)
Of course really you need one of each size, rip and crosscut... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

What! No Japanese saws?.... :shock: :lol: :lol:

 

[Alf]

Well if the origin of manufacture card is played you could justify all sizes in all configurations from the UK, USA, Canada (Canadian Disston's anyone?), Continental Europe and the Far East (are Chinese saws like Japanese ones? How about Korea?).

Mmm, I like it. :twisted:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Jarviser]

Wasn't sure if this is a valid response to the original question, but I am having terrible trouble with LN saws. I got a couple of LN Independance saws as a gift.
The carcass saw will cut mahogany quite well but trying to crosscut tough woods like oak, say 25x40mm section, even with the lightest possible cut the blade binds terribly and I need to dress with candle wax twice before I have cut through one piece. Getting a straight cut is almost impossible and I have to cut 2mm from the line and clean up with a shooting board.
I know it says that you need a "new way" of cutting because of the minimal set, and I try to use just the weight of the saw, but I wonder if I will ever master the skill to use it before I give up and get at it with the saw set. At least with british saws you can give it a bit of wellie. Probably just me.

 

[MikeW]

The carcass saw will cut mahogany quite well but trying to crosscut tough woods like oak, say 25x40mm section, even with the lightest possible cut the blade binds terribly

Hi Peter,

Oak can be difficult with a saw having minimal set. It is because of the fiberous open-pored nature of the wood.

If you have any closed grain wood like Maple, try it on that. I suspect it will work fine, even though it is a harder wood.

Oak also absorbs moisture readily and this compounds the fiber-springback issue. I usually set saws destined for use on oak a tad wider, say 5 thousandths on each side. This affects the saw's ability to guide itself in other woods, but sawing to a line is sawing to a line and it sounds like that is not going to be an issue for you.

On the carcass saw, if you touch it up with a file, you might also try adding a little more slant to the teeth [rake] and perhaps a little more bevel angle [fleam]. This will make it cross cut this type of wood easier and also, assuming an even set, will make for a cleaner cut.

Take care, Mike

 

[Jarviser]

Thanks Mike, that explains it.

 

[MikeW]

Oooooo, plenty of potential for difference of opinion here...

Yep, tis a personal thing, Nads.

But as long as you asked for *my* choice...it all depends like BB said. Cutting deeper or longer tenons, I need a longer, deeper saw with a stiffer saw plate and less handle hang. My preference for large tenons is a 15" to 16", 10 ppi rip with progressive rake for the first 2-3 inches to make starting easier.

For dovetails or other joinery, again, depends on the scale. Thinner stock, a shorter saw with a thin saw plate and high ppi. 18 mm stock, a longer, perhaps 10" saw with maybe 15 ppi.

If I had to only have a single saw for ripping cuts on small joinery, it would be a 10", 16 ppi saw with a 1.75" depth of cut. A matched CC as well if I could have two.

Take care, Mike