How do you sign your turnings?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PAC

Established Member
Joined
19 Aug 2008
Messages
181
Reaction score
0
Location
Lancaster
I'm getting to the stage now where I'm almost happy to put my name on my turnings :oops: . The trouble is, I'm not quite sure about the best method to use. Do you use a fine, permanent marker pen directly on the wood and cover with a finish or do you write over the top of the finish? Or is there some other way...?
 
I use a dremel type thingy with a small pointy burr in it- the easiest way is to close your eyes and just sign it like you would with a pen but much smaller :lol:
 
I burn a paw print into the base (which i have adopted as my logo - how pretentious is THAT? - in honour of mr Dog). I use a soldering iron in the absence of a pyro thingy.
 
heres one i signed earlier :lol:
DSCF4357.jpg

DSCF4359.jpg

DSCF4356.jpg


wabbits method works but its not the easiest to use on all types of work.
on this lignum box the only place i could sign it was on an innner rebate/lip- you can just see part of it in the first photo :wink:
 
thanks- its one of the few pieces i've ever kept, its about 5 years old now and still the same colour as the day it was made, it was polished with u-beaut products :)
 
Hi Paul.

If just looking for a general all-round method buy a .1mm drawing pen. I use a DR drawing pen with either a .5 or .1mm tip, and it must be 'pigment ink'. I get mine in a stationers and they cost about £2 each.

Of course they only work on the lighter woods, but I have used them on Laburnum and you can still see the writing. As far as I know they only come in black. Also as they are pigment ink you can sign the base before you polish, even thinned sanding sealer won't cause the ink to run. AFTER IT IS DRY.
 
its about 5 years old now and still the same colour as the day it was made

that's interesting, I quite often turn lignum (mostly I turn mdf I'm sorry to say) and find it darkens in just a day or two. Nice box.
 
Paul.
I just use a fine tipped CD marker,black.Usually on top of the finish,
Seems to have worked for me so far :D
More of a personal touch me thinks.
 
I burn my wood with a Pyrography pen, i always put my name, date & type of wood if there is room.

Great looking box George. I want to try and do threaded boxes will need to get chasers when i get money!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
 
On the few things that I've signed I've used a CD pen. I should really try using my pyrography machine for this but I find it hard to write with - guess I just need to practice
 
My daughter in the USA bought me a "branding iron" as a Xmas present. Looks nice on flat surfaces, but the image is about 1" by 2", so it's only practical for larger items. If anyone wants one, I could ask her for the source.
 
I find the only wat to write with the PYRO pen is to use a fine tip solid point or what i use is the wire tip. It is hard to keep the movment flowing like a pen, so i write it first, then cover the writting with lots of dots.
Crude, but it looks okay.
 
Writing with apyro pen can depend in the wood. Woods like ash & oak can be almost impossible to do and look good even with a decent tool. Unless you are used to using the tool I would advise using a pen like most of us.

Pete
 

Latest posts

Back
Top