How do you sharpen turning tools?

[devonwoody]

without spending a fortune as well? :wink:

 

[PowerTool]

Personally,freehand on a Perform widewheel grinder,skews generally on diamond sharpening stones or an oilstone.
If you search the forum for "sharpening jig",there are a few ideas for home-made jigs for sharpening gouges with different profiles.

Andrew

 

[Anonymous]

similar to Andrew 'cept everything gets done on the grinder... using an axmin grinder platform (<£20)

for long swept back grinds I use an axmin drill sharpening jig (<£10 when I bought it) modified a bit :wink:

no expense spared :lol:

 

[chippypah]

Sorry all mine is done on a tormek, so easy for me to use one handed.
Cheers
Pete

 

[devonwoody]

Many thanks for the inspiring ideas above, a good choice there.

The chisels coming are TCT, recommended by Mr. A............ will they sharpen or will it be cheaper to buy new ones when things go downhill?

 

[Bodrighy]

Sharpening is as much a personal thing as in flat work. The tools that you use depend on what you get used to IMHO. I started off with some Carbon steel ones I was given and then some HSS posh ones later on and still use both. I also frehand sharpen mainly 'cos I am too tight to buy a jig and too lazy to make one. I do them on a grey wheel on a Record grindstone.

If you Google 'woodturning sharpening' you will et loads of hits resrding the subject. Best thing is find the method that suits you best.

Pete

 

[loz]

Hi,

Im currently building a jig as per this site ( well when i go to b&q to get my required thumbscrews ) - Looks to be simple enough,

http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening03.html

 

[CHJ]

John a normal Aluminium Oxide (white) wheel of 80-100 grit is fine for HSS, as has been said you may wish to make yourself a jig up to help get the profile on your bowl and spindle gouges.

Main thing to remember is that regardless of whether you are using a jig or freehand the final profile of the cutting edge and the bevel is down to you and how long you keep the tool in contact with the wheel.

If you have not got a copy already I strongly suggest you purchase Woodturning: A Foundation Course (New Edition 1999)
by Keith Rowley

It is just about 'The' bible on turning and gives safety and tool sharpening guidance in a down to earth manner.

A couple of simple jigs that may give you some ideas.

Here

and Here

But as mentioned there are countless versions referred to on this forum and elsewhere if you do a search.

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Chas. Printing out for another jig to make.

 

[T.allan]

Hi everybody, I've sharpened my tools by hand and they cut well if they are absolutely sharp. I aquired aset of second hand tools to practice with and have learnt by experince that the bestway to find out HOW" is to try it for yourtself and that guideline came from asn expert

 

[T.allan]

and don't laugh at my spelling

 

[Anonymous]

err... Y knot ?

 

[Bodrighy]

Don't worry, I've got a dyslexic keyboard as well

Pete

 

[Anonymous]

you're not the only one Pete...I'm getting spam for Vgaira

...must be a new one, still not as good as Lust :lol: :lol:

 

[Bodrighy]

you're not the only one Pete...I'm getting spam for Vgaira

...must be a new one, still not as good as Lust :lol: :lol:

Now that rings bells....sure I've heard of that somewhere

Pete

 

[CHJ]

......will they sharpen or will it be cheaper to buy new ones when things go downhill?

Just taken note of your comment John, even with your mini lathe you could well be sharpening a tool a couple of times on one job.

If you think it needs sharpening you are already past the point when you should have visited the grinder.

Not a big chore once you get into turning, just don't get bogged down trying to get an ultimate edge as though it's a Philly Plane, a few revs of high speed wood can/will remove the finest edge super quick.

 

[Blister]

I use a water cooled Tormec system , costs a bit more in the long run :?:

But does it ?

I have tried dry grinding and did not get on well with it for 2 reasons

1 it does not take long to turn the chisel end blue :?

2 without a jig / doing it free hand I could not get a consistent accurate edge

with a jig system that is water cooled I get good repeatability , and don't grind too much off the cutting edge , and being water cooled never overheat the cutting edge

SO my chisels last longer :lol: :lol:

works for me :wink:

 

[duncanh]

Blister - I've read and heard a couple times that bluing through heat doesn't damage your tools if they're HSS. That being said, if they blue regularly or all over then you're applying too much force - you don't need to press the tool into the stone.
If you use a jig on a high speed grinder then it's easier to keep the tool moving over the stone and avoid the bluing. You would also get the same repeatability that you get from your water cooled grinder with jig.

Having said that, I've never used a wet grinder so can't really compare.

The reason I got the high speed was the price I've never had a reason to swap.

 

[Hans]

You can have the best of both worlds:
- sharpen on a water cooled system, which is efficient in time and material.
- (re)Grind on a high (or medium) speed grinder with the jigs of the water cooled system.

Downside: It takes more space and money.

Hans

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

I use a slow speed 8" grinder, and a set up I built myself, it works well, and did not cost me a lot of money.

Cheers!