How can I stop this joint opening up ?

[Cordy]

Before

Now, after a few months outside

Bought as p a r Redwood and treated with Sikkens
Each joint screwed together with 3 long pocket hole screws

Now planning to make another hexagon shaped planter with similar top collar
Probably be about 20 mm x 4 inches
How can I reduce the chance of gap widening ?
Any advice appreciated

 

[Droogs]

you could try kitchen worktop clamps

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I doubt there's depth in the sections for worktop clamps.
It's wood. It moves. I doubt there's a way of stopping it, short of weathering the parts before fitting them together.

 

[MikeG.]

It's not the same joint......

Fixing it is one thing. Keeping it fixed is another. Frankly, your best bet is to make it out of some other wood. I'd do mitred bridles for those joins, and use waterproof glue. One of them, somewhere around the structure, would still likely open up.

 

[That would work]

Maybe a 'decorative' feature in the form of a cover strip? (Obviously fixed to only one side of each joint) or maybe a trailing plant over it

 

[Jacob]

Don't water the plants. The inside needs to be as dry as the outside or you get differential expansion.
In other words it's an impossible joint for the situation.
Simplest would be to tack on a little cover strip. ^^^ as above
Copper or stainless nails just lightly fixed so movement can continue but unnoticed.

 

[Bm101]

What about dressing it in thin lead flashing and avoud the problem altogether?
Just an idea.

 

[Jacob]

What about dressing it in thin lead flashing and avoud the problem altogether?
Just an idea.

Yes could be decorative with a scalloped fringe etc

 

[That would work]

OR a nice big chamfer or bead along the edge of the joint to disguise the inevitable.

 

[Cordy]

Thanks for many replies and ideas

your best bet is to make it out of some other wood.

Hadn't thought of that, I have some nice 7 x 1 inch Cedar that needs using

Don't water the plants. The inside needs to be as dry as the outside

The soil is not in contact with the Planter
The dust-bin sits inside

What about dressing it in thin lead flashing

Worth experimenting with

 

[MikeG.]

Another approach might be to accept that it is going to open up, but control where that happens. You could maybe have loose tongues holding the mitres together (I noted the lack of interest in bridle joints! ). Glue all of the loose tongues, other than one pair in opposite joints. All the movement would occur at those two locations, and because they're opposite each other, hopefully it wouldn't and up with an ugly non-parallel gap.

 

[That would work]

Make a purposeful 'gap' of about 4mm and caulk it with a rubber compound in the same way a yachts decking would be done. There's an endless list!

 

[Doug71]

Find a local joiners shop that has some offcuts of Accoya and use that.

 

[That would work]

OK I'm going to say it.... does it matter? !

 

[AndyT]

I made a planter with a rim round it like that. As far as I know the corners are still ok. I used cedar and lapped mitre joints.

cedar-planter-from-offcuts-t111482.html

 

[Bm101]

Another thought. If you are growing plants that are favoured by slugs and snails one solution mentioned by some is copper tape. I can't provide any evidence but i have put it on the mrs hostas pots and I reckon it makes a big difference. The odd one gets through but we have hostas these days not stumps.
If you are planting anything that is subject to attack from muollusca (i googled that) maybe thin copper sheet might be a good idea instead of lead. If you bend it between battens should get some crip lines rather than dressing it. Look snazzy too.