LBCarpentry
Established Member
Yes you will absolutely gobble through tubes and tubes of it. How people can justify using products like repair care etc is beyond me.
Heritage putty
- Thread starter HOJ
- Start date
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monster
Established Member
I used old school linseed putty to hold the glass in on the sash window I made recently - b*std magpies have come and pecked it all out - caught one in the act the other day! Apparently its something in the linseed all that attracts them according to google... another reason to use these modern alternatives!
Last edited:
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
No word of a lie, I've seen jobs where crows have pecked at and eaten Accoya beading! It must be instinctive
Ollie78
Established Member
The key is to get a good tooling block. I prefer the Palu 568 ones, they are similar to the original repair care ones. The new repair care ones are a harder plastic and not as nice at all.
The Hodgesons is the best I think and stiffer in consistency, very similar to the Dryseal. The Timbaglaze is a bit thinner and also much shinier in texture in some ways easier but in others not. The hodgesons skins over VERY fast, only do one pane at a time.
Stixall is actually a very similar product to all the above and considerably cheaper at about £4 a tube ( I know of one joiner who uses it exclusively and has for years ) .
First do the back bead, nozzle small it will compress nicely. Push the glass on with even pressure till you get squeeze out.
Apply sprigs with sprig gun or whatever you are using.
Once you have done the sash/casement turn it over straight away, now is the best time to clean it off. For this I use the plastic cards that come with metolux and car body filler, I buy a load of them off ebay. They are very square and sharp so use these tight to the glass and wood, cleaning up the excess and wiping the card on no nonsense wipes. once it looks clean, wrap a wipe around the card and go around again, now it is clean.
Flip it back over, with the small nozzle still fill around the double glazed unit as you would with U9 or whatever to ensure complet encapsulation.
Then cut the nozzle the the size of the bead required. Actually I use 2 guns one with small one with nozzle cut to bead size.
I find it is best to bead in the full pane with the gun ( buy a good one like a cox powerflow ) trying not to go overboard with it, you just need to come to the edge of the sightline and the corner of the timber.
Then I go to each corner. Place the point of the tooling block on the glass near the corner and drag in into the corner and up and out aiming towards the corner ( hard to explain ).
This will give you a mitred corner and indicate where to put the edge of the sightline.
The tool finds the edges and gives you the perfect shape, also it gives clearence for the next step.
Place the tool in the corner without touching the back side (because now there is clearance) tool along one side but stop at say 80% and draw the tool off to the outside, clean off tool. Go back the other direction to remove the last 20% but continue to 50% so it smooths right over, easing off smoothly.
Repeat for all sides.
Do not push hard into it otherwise you will get a small lip where the rubber compresses and the sealant wont go to the edge.
I use no nonsense wipes or similar to wipe clean the tooling block, you can use a rag with glass cleaner or soapy water etc.
Now, where you get the excess on the glass which should be clearly separated from the bead by a small clean line. I like to remove this with a razor blade straight away, clean the blade on a wipe as you go. This saves hours later because you will have very minimal cleanup. If you let big blobs set you will not be happy.
If you do a small mistake leave it alone, messing with it WILL make it worse. Let it go hard you can trom lumps back with a razor blade and can go over small blemishes again next day.
Once its all dry go round with a razor blade to clean up any tiny bits of residue and give everything a clean.
Unfortunalely this process is a "feel" thing and kind of a knack.
I normally find the last one of the job is actually quite decent.
That is all the tips I can think of for now.
Ollie
The Hodgesons is the best I think and stiffer in consistency, very similar to the Dryseal. The Timbaglaze is a bit thinner and also much shinier in texture in some ways easier but in others not. The hodgesons skins over VERY fast, only do one pane at a time.
Stixall is actually a very similar product to all the above and considerably cheaper at about £4 a tube ( I know of one joiner who uses it exclusively and has for years ) .
First do the back bead, nozzle small it will compress nicely. Push the glass on with even pressure till you get squeeze out.
Apply sprigs with sprig gun or whatever you are using.
Once you have done the sash/casement turn it over straight away, now is the best time to clean it off. For this I use the plastic cards that come with metolux and car body filler, I buy a load of them off ebay. They are very square and sharp so use these tight to the glass and wood, cleaning up the excess and wiping the card on no nonsense wipes. once it looks clean, wrap a wipe around the card and go around again, now it is clean.
Flip it back over, with the small nozzle still fill around the double glazed unit as you would with U9 or whatever to ensure complet encapsulation.
Then cut the nozzle the the size of the bead required. Actually I use 2 guns one with small one with nozzle cut to bead size.
I find it is best to bead in the full pane with the gun ( buy a good one like a cox powerflow ) trying not to go overboard with it, you just need to come to the edge of the sightline and the corner of the timber.
Then I go to each corner. Place the point of the tooling block on the glass near the corner and drag in into the corner and up and out aiming towards the corner ( hard to explain ).
This will give you a mitred corner and indicate where to put the edge of the sightline.
The tool finds the edges and gives you the perfect shape, also it gives clearence for the next step.
Place the tool in the corner without touching the back side (because now there is clearance) tool along one side but stop at say 80% and draw the tool off to the outside, clean off tool. Go back the other direction to remove the last 20% but continue to 50% so it smooths right over, easing off smoothly.
Repeat for all sides.
Do not push hard into it otherwise you will get a small lip where the rubber compresses and the sealant wont go to the edge.
I use no nonsense wipes or similar to wipe clean the tooling block, you can use a rag with glass cleaner or soapy water etc.
Now, where you get the excess on the glass which should be clearly separated from the bead by a small clean line. I like to remove this with a razor blade straight away, clean the blade on a wipe as you go. This saves hours later because you will have very minimal cleanup. If you let big blobs set you will not be happy.
If you do a small mistake leave it alone, messing with it WILL make it worse. Let it go hard you can trom lumps back with a razor blade and can go over small blemishes again next day.
Once its all dry go round with a razor blade to clean up any tiny bits of residue and give everything a clean.
Unfortunalely this process is a "feel" thing and kind of a knack.
I normally find the last one of the job is actually quite decent.
That is all the tips I can think of for now.
Ollie
On sash windows I made fairly recently using accoya, I profiled the sash to be beaded internally, used an epdm gasket with lip Flexible EPDM Tape with Lip then dgu held in with dry glazing clips then bead with an epdm gasket along the edge retained by just a few pins - as the bead is decorative only no requirement for over doing it. The internally beaded profile copied from one of the big name sash window manufacturers. Not traditional, but worked extremely well with DGU
Doug71
Established Member
I knew an old joiner, probably not with us anymore, grumpy old chap, he described every job he was on as "A right nanny goat job".
He had made a full house worth of sash windows, Georgian style, all small panes. He spent ages pointing all the putty off (he did make a neat job of things), it was the last job before he went on holiday for a fortnight, plan was when he came back the putty would be nicely skinned over ready to paint.
He came back to find mice had eaten most of the putty and the bits that they hadn't eaten had nice little mouse footprints in, looked like the mice had a right party while he was away, he had to repoint them all
Regarding Accoya a friend sometimes takes my wood shavings for their horse but won't take the Accoya ones as the horse eats them! I must admit sometimes the vinegar smell makes me fancy fish and chips
