Help please with the garage door

[craigs]

I hope this all makes sense, I do have a couple of bad photos to add.

So I got my garage which is nice and dry but my first step is that I want to seal and insulate the door, however I'd like it to be removable for when I buy new machines etc.

My plan was to essentially frame an upside down U on the sides and bottom so I have something to attach a stud wall made from 38x63 cls, 11mm OSB and insulated with 50mm slab. I was going to weather strip the bottom and connect it with screw-latch things.

Problem 1: that would be stupidly heavy to move myself, not only to get in place, but remove if I need to.

Problem 2: it takes up a good chunk of space from already a small environment.

Any help would be super appreciated as I'm racking my brain trying to figure out the best way to achieve this,

Cheers

 

[craigs]

my plan was to double up the top rail to give a flat surface to attach some kind of insulated panel for drafts/noise

the sheet is just for dimensions

 

[sometimewoodworker]

You could do the same as I have done with my security gates. They are hinged at the top and use a pulley (or for the big one a chain block) to lift them. You would need to build a locking system to hold it up when you need to open the the door.

you can add insulation to the side that faces the door. As to weight you will probably need help putting it in place but after that it should be no problem with just you.

 

[sunnybob]

I would go with three sideways sliding overlapping panels on metal runners. No lifting involved. Stack them from the outside with a rain and security protecting cover over. They can be very securely locked together at multiple points and as thickly insulated as you want. You could then open one or two for ventilation next summer.

 

[craigs]

interesting ideas, thanks for the input, the hinged approach would mean making sure a significant area is clear for the door to lift. I also like the sliding door idea but i dont think anything is level enough and id make a complete pigs ear of it

 

[Doug B]

Think I’d make a pair of insulated bi-fold doors, hinged off your cls so when open they are out of the way of the up & over doors but by being bi-fold don’t need much room internally to open them. Simple torsion box construction for the 4 doors made from cls & OSB filled with insulation & hinged with T hinges

 

[Setch]

I'd just cut a sheet of kingspan or similar to the correct size, and jam it in the hole. If it's a decent fit, friction will hold it in place, and it'll be light and easy to move when needed.

Am I missing something?

 

[sunnybob]

You buy metal track for the sliding doors, and using a spirit level you dig out / pack up underneath the bottom one till its spot on. Then you measure up from that for the overhead metal rail.
easy peasy.

 

[Inspector]

Is there any reason you can't insulate the door you have? A light wood or sheet metal frame supporting glass or mineral wool batts or spray foamed a few inches thick and skinned with thin plywood or sheet metal. An insulation contractor could come by when in the area on a bigger job. If you want a little more insulation then a heavy curtain rod and a thick curtain of moving blankets or similar would do the job. If tall and wide enough to cover the wall some and maybe touch the floor, if you know it never gets wet, would keep you warm in your climate. Do those kind of doors come already insulated? Our roll up types can be had with 1 1/2" and thicker, foamed in insulation. Maybe easier to replace than to try and come up with an inner door or removable wall.

Pete

 

[craigs]

Is there any reason you can't insulate the door you have? A light wood or sheet metal frame supporting glass or mineral wool batts or spray foamed a few inches thick and skinned with thin plywood or sheet metal. An insulation contractor could come by when in the area on a bigger job. If you want a little more insulation then a heavy curtain rod and a thick curtain of moving blankets or similar would do the job. If tall and wide enough to cover the wall some and maybe touch the floor, if you know it never gets wet, would keep you warm in your climate. Do those kind of doors come already insulated? Our roll up types can be had with 1 1/2" and thicker, foamed in insulation. Maybe easier to replace than to try and come up with an inner door or removable wall.

Pete

I did think about having the current door sprayed, but another part of the reason is in the unlikely event someone decides to force the door open and steal my goodies they wont be able to open the door if there is an internal door/structure blocking it.

 

[craigs]

So i went with the following, seems to do the job:

put the frame up and sealed it with expanding foam, the made a bottom insulated stud wall which is a tigh friction fit....might add a couple of screws just in case. havent done the top part yet but thinking about hinging it to the bottom.