Help, cladding Newel Posts

[deema]

I have a staircase that the boss wants to convert from painted redwood newels to oak effect. So, what’s the best approach? The staircase has a turn so it has a half landing. The newels pass through to be visible from below. The boss doesnt want to increase the post size dramatically, they are at the moment 120mm square. They are too ‘rough’ I believe to veneer, so I’m wondering about oak faced MDF cladding. But I can’t think of any easy way of ensuring ‘perfect mitre joints with say 13mm thick sheet.

I had showed her 18mm using a mitre lock block on the spindle, which would have been the perfect solution, but that was too thick. They need to be scribed into the stairs. I don’t think I can mitre lock 13mm (which is the thinnest I think I can go). I’d wondered about biscuits, but the no 10 is right on the edge of break through and would be very close to the inner edge. So, I’m a bit stuck on how to wrap the post with perfect perfume no gap joints.

Ive removed the newel tops and sanded down one side on the off chance they were oak under the paint……nope redwood the caps are oak. I need to extend the landing newels by 70mm as the new UFH has raised the floor height. The landing newels would have needed 25mm, but the handrail was closer to the tops on the landing than going up the stairs, a bit squashed, so, if I’m extending them, might as well make them look I’m proportion.

Any other ideas?
Any suggestions on how to do the joints?

 

[AJB Temple]

Remove and replace with oak posts. It will be quicker in the end

 

[clive griffiths]

Remove and replace with oak posts. It will be quicker in the end

Yes prop up the stairs and change like for like, oh and dont forget to take out the glass first.

 

[toolsntat]

My only effort was solid with mitrelock...
https://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8138Not sure if the pictures are available to others?
Cheers, Andy

 

[deema]

That would be my first choice…to replace the newels….but I don’t want to disturb / break the tiled floor. It runs into the kitchen and other places so, that’s a none starter.

 

[johnnyb]

I would use 13mm solid tbh so you can lose the arris without losing the oak so to speak. Jointing definitely a router cutter maybe. Critical cutting on the newel post though. Replacing the newel isn't for the faint hearted as you'd need to remove the lot.

 

[deema]

@toolsntat That’s looks very nice, well done.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

If a veneer would be too thin for a surface that is less than completely flat, could you cut (bandsaw) "veneers" that are (say) 5mm thick.

These would be easier to glue to a less than perfect surface and be sufficiently thick that what lay below would not show.

If glued on there would be no need for a fancy joint - simply butt together and glue. With grain running in the same direction the glue line may not even show.

 

[deema]

I’m a little hesitant about thick veneers it using solid wood. I can cut them. The issue I’m concerned about is that at say 130mm or circa 5 1/2” wide it will potentially twist / cup.

 

[niall Y]

Why not 6mm, oak veneered MDF? You should easily be able to rout the mitres down the edges. if you clamp it to a thicker board.
Mind you, you could use sheets of iron-on veneer. If you rout out a small rebate at each corner of the newels and glue oak fillets in, this will make the corners more robust

 

[Doug B]

I took the advice of an old forum member years ago when cladding newel posts in oak that was to use thin solid timber using a rebate joint on the corners, the front edge of the rebate was 6mm thick, after the box was glued up the corner was rounded over with a 6mm router cutter which made the joint invisible.
This is one of the last ones I did

 

[okeydokey]

I’m a little hesitant about thick veneers it using solid wood. I can cut them. The issue I’m concerned about is that at say 130mm or circa 5 1/2” wide it will potentially twist / cup.

You can buy Oak Stripwood that is usually pretty dry and if its too thick you may be able to plane/thickness as you need, at least its dry. If the paint was removed pva or whatever rollered on to the post and the wood well clamped with a bit of board covering the new wood I would have thought it will be fine. Could you blind pin nails here and there as back up?
edit ..... my post added before seeing Dog B's excellent work and solution

 

[deema]

@Doug B How did you round over down to the tread?
Am I being over cautious about using solid??

 

[Inspector]

Deema if you are open to a router bit there are a number of small lock miter bits out there. They are made for 3/8" to 1/2" stock so you could use solid or veneered plywood/MDF.

An example. Amazon.ca

I have a detail biscuit machine that was made by Ryobi many years ago (DBJ-50) and it is perfect for small box, picture frame, thin materials, etc. If they were ever sold in the UK you might find them on eBay. An example of one. They guy wants stupid money for it. More than they were new decades ago. Ryobi DBJ 50 Detail Biscuit Joiner 19,000 RPM 120v Corded - Tested / Working | eBay

Pete

 

[Hornbeam]

I would clean up the existing posts and then clad with 5 or 6mm bandsawn slices that can be glued to the existing posts. You dont have to worry about mitres as you will lose the joint in a 6mm radius. As the existing posts are solid you wont have any issues with wood movement

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Run a mile.

 

[TRITON]

I’m a little hesitant about thick veneers it using solid wood. I can cut them. The issue I’m concerned about is that at say 130mm or circa 5 1/2” wide it will potentially twist / cup.

At 3mm thick and well glued they arent going to move.

 

[deema]

Run a mile.

But she can run faster and longer than me!

 

[Richard_C]

2 off the wall ideas.

Are there any engineered wood flooring "planks" that would do it as the cover? Typically 8 or 9mm thick. If they are wide enough you can mitre the edges and discard the clicky-fitty bits.

OR - get really good at graining (also known as faux bois). It was quite common in the 50s. No high level woodworking skills required. You could try it out on scrap long before you get near the real newel posts, and if it doesn't work out you can go back to plan a, b or whatever because all you have done is add a bit of paint.

 

[Stevekane]

Just another idea, how about insetting oak panels on each face,,I immagine it would start with routering out the recesses to hold the panels,,but it could end up looking quite fussy and looking at the style you presently have Im not sure it would fit in?
Steve.