Hegner Multi Cut 1?

[Hugh M.]

I thought recently that I don’t use my scroll saw enough. It was a second hand purchase that I thought I could use to produce knife scales. It wasn’t great at that and a bandsaw was duly acquired.
I think it is a Multi Cut 1:

I’m assuming the 1 refers to the number of speeds? What I really want to know is, is there an after market blade thing? Here’s what I have:

A tool that you use to undo a clamp held in the little recess on the bottom right corner. I find juggling with the workpiece, the tool and blade whilst trying to keep everything straight is a chore.

Maybe I just need more practice? TIA.

 

[LambCrafter]

I thought recently that I don’t use my scroll saw enough. It was a second hand purchase that I thought I could use to produce knife scales. It wasn’t great at that and a bandsaw was duly acquired.
I think it is a Multi Cut 1:

View attachment 191448

I’m assuming the 1 refers to the number of speeds? What I really want to know is, is there an after market blade thing? Here’s what I have:

View attachment 191449

A tool that you use to undo a clamp held in the little recess on the bottom right corner. I find juggling with the workpiece, the tool and blade whilst trying to keep everything straight is a chore.

Maybe I just need more practice? TIA.

@scrimper is the expert on Hegner scroll saws.

However, looking at your scroll saw it looks like a Multicut 1. The 1 refers to the model range 1=Entry Level, 2=Mid Range. The one does not refer to the number of speeds - for example the Milticut 2 is available in single and variable speed.

You can find a page on Hegner scroll saws on Scrimper’s website: https://sites.google.com/view/scrimpers-fretworking-site/fretsaws/hegner-saws

You may wish to consider using a Quick Clamp for quick release of the blade: https://www.hegner.co.uk/hegner/hm0450.html

Hope the above helps.

 

[Hugh M.]

Thanks, that does help.

 

[LambCrafter]

Thanks, that does help.

Great. I have recently purchased a second hand Hegner Multicut 2S Variable Speed and am still learning the ropes. If you have any other questions I can attempt to answer them.

One thing I have found is if you push the blade into the blade holder so it touches the locking screw the blade moves when the screw is tightened and the blade is not straight to the direction of cut. If you move the blade out a fraction and then tighten, the blade tends to remain straight. Hope that makes sense.

 

[scrimper]

@scrimper is the expert on Hegner scroll saws.

However, looking at your scroll saw it looks like a Multicut 1. The 1 refers to the model range 1=Entry Level, 2=Mid Range. The one does not refer to the number of speeds - for example the Milticut 2 is available in single and variable speed.

You can find a page on Hegner scroll saws on Scrimper’s website: https://sites.google.com/view/scrimpers-fretworking-site/fretsaws/hegner-saws

You may wish to consider using a Quick Clamp for quick release of the blade: https://www.hegner.co.uk/hegner/hm0450.html

Hope the above helps.

Many thanks for recommending my website. I think you do exaggerate on my knowledge on Hegner though- but thank you for the compliment.
I agree with your comment on the use of the Quick clamp - in my opinion it's essential and improves the cutting experience massively.

 

[scrimper]

Great. I have recently purchased a second hand Hegner Multicut 2S Variable Speed and am still learning the ropes. If you have any other questions I can attempt to answer them.

One thing I have found is if you push the blade into the blade holder so it touches the locking screw the blade moves when the screw is tightened and the blade is not straight to the direction of cut. If you move the blade out a fraction and then tighten, the blade tends to remain straight. Hope that makes sense.

I agree 100% about the blade touching the locking screw that is exactly correct.

I hope you enjoy using your Hegner they are a brilliant machine - even after 25 years of use I still love using mine, it is my favourite machine to use in my workshop - quiet and gentle to use compare to all the other noisy machines I use.

 

[scrimper]

Thanks, that does help.

Hugh am I right in thinking you have a Coronet major? It very much looks like one poking it's 'nose' into your images above. I have the one shown below which I bought new in 1976. I had wanted one since I was a lad after seeing them advertised in the DIY magazines in the 1960's. They are a superbly made machine but lost out when stand alone far east made cheap machines became available.

 

[scrimper]

I thought recently that I don’t use my scroll saw enough. It was a second hand purchase that I thought I could use to produce knife scales. It wasn’t great at that and a bandsaw was duly acquired.
I think it is a Multi Cut 1:

View attachment 191448

I’m assuming the 1 refers to the number of speeds? What I really want to know is, is there an after market blade thing? Here’s what I have:



A tool that you use to undo a clamp held in the little recess on the bottom right corner. I find juggling with the workpiece, the tool and blade whilst trying to keep everything straight is a chore.

Maybe I just need more practice? TIA.

I see that Lamb has answered your question admirably - may I suggest that you remove the hold down tool and guard thing completely, they serve no useful purpose and make the saw much more fiddly to use.

 

[Hugh M.]

Hugh am I right in thinking you have a Coronet major? It very much looks like one poking it's 'nose' into your images above. I have the one shown below which I bought new in 1976. I had wanted one since I was a lad after seeing them advertised in the DIY magazines in the 1960's. They are a superbly made machine but lost out when stand alone far east made cheap machines became available.

Well spotted and just about right. It is a Coronet Minor. I got it without any of the add ons apart from a grinding wheel that I don’t use. I do have the rest that you use when you turn the headstock 90 degrees if you want to make a larger bowl. It took me a while to work it out. I really like mine as well.

 

[Hugh M.]

I see that Lamb has answered your question admirably - may I suggest that you remove the hold down tool and guard thing completely, they serve no useful purpose and make the saw much more fiddly to use.

Mr Scrimper, can I ask you about this? The guard is a pain. The hold down tool is what I refer to as the Anti-Bounce Bar. I find that the workpiece jumps up and down especially when close to an edge. Could this point to a problem with the machine or, (way more likely) something I’m doing wrong such as poor blade choice?
What I have done is cut a piece of aluminium drinks tin and stuck two layers of masking tape to it. Place this between the workpiece and the bounce bar, tighten and remove the spacer. It reduces the bouncing. I’m always up for advice though.

 

[Inspector]

Silly question perhaps but you do have the teeth pointing down don't you?

Pete

 

[Hugh M.]

Silly question perhaps but you do have the teeth pointing down don't you?

Pete

I have it so as the blade gets pulled down the perpendicular element of each tooth hits the wood first.

 

[scrimper]

I have it so as the blade gets pulled down the perpendicular element of each tooth hits the wood first.

There is a little image of the way the teeth should point in the side of the table in the clamp holding socket. The simple way to tell if the blade is fitted correctly is to run your finger up or down the blade (turned off of course!) if you run your hand up you should feel the sharp teeth which is how it should be.
It is common for those new to the hobby for the work to clatter about on the table but you soon get used to automatically holding the work down firmly.

 

[scrimper]

Mr Scrimper, can I ask you about this? The guard is a pain. The hold down tool is what I refer to as the Anti-Bounce Bar. I find that the workpiece jumps up and down especially when close to an edge. Could this point to a problem with the machine or, (way more likely) something I’m doing wrong such as poor blade choice?
What I have done is cut a piece of aluminium drinks tin and stuck two layers of masking tape to it. Place this between the workpiece and the bounce bar, tighten and remove the spacer. It reduces the bouncing. I’m always up for advice though.

I would recommend you just remove the hold down and guard and just get used to holding the work down firmly. As mentioned elsewhere - always ensure the blade is fitted teeth down. That plastic guard thing is pointless - If I had to put up with that I think I would give up the hobby! Bin it is my advice.