Has anyone tried the Aldi chainsaw

[paulm]

oil the sprocket whilst rotating it - the oil then runs down the grooves in the bar. I've not seen anything to be gained by attempting to grease it.

As I recall, although I may be mistaken, the manufacturers, bar and saw, recommend greasing the sprocket (it doesn't need much).

I would expect that grease will stay in the location and lubricate for considerably longer than oil which will rapidly disperse.

Whether it makes a significant difference in practice I don't know, but why wouldn't you grease it as recommended, it's not difficult, just lazy not to

Cheers, Paul

 

[Steve Maskery]

My local has these in at the moment. I've never used a chainsaw, but I am tempted. Do I need to buy any special shorts or sandals to use with it?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Paul - Yes, if your manual says grease, grease. I didn't have a manual for mine (second hand) but I've always thought on the three that I've owned that it's better to have oil getting where I want it to go than grease that probably doesn't - it's not as if there are points to grease, you can only try to get it in from the outside. Once the thing has run hot, I doubt much of anything other than chain oil stays there anyway. I've never had any problem with bars over 40 years of using one (off and on) so I've no reason to think oil is wrong, but once again grease if your book tells you to.

 

[paulm]

Hi Phil, the grease point on mine, a couple of huskies, stihl and makita, oregon replacement bars too, is the small hole in the outer bar skin near the nose sprocket. You just take the grease gun (small push type you normally get with the saws) and locate the nose in the indent and press, then give the sprocket a few turns and repeat on the other side. The indent/hole is small and doesn't look like a normal grease nipple or anything so easily overlooked !

Cheers, Paul

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, I've seen it but it doesn't seem close enough to where you wish the grease to be - the grease seems to take the easy route outwards. Obviously that's what it's there for, but as I say I don't think it makes a jot of difference. In truth, I suspect many people (certainly some I've worked with :lol: ) never do either - they are probably never likely to do enough work to wear a bar out, anyway.

 

[Chrispy]

My local has these in at the moment. I've never used a chainsaw, but I am tempted. Do I need to buy any special shorts or sandals to use with it?

Steve I guess desert sandals/shorts , after all it not often you hear of Arabs having bad chainsaw accidents. :roll:

 

[topchippyles]

first things first guys,i am new to the site but its great for advice for problem solving.as for aldi chain saw 3 year guarante (where else would you get that) ive had one for a while and good value for money,as for use pretty good for the diy,ers cutting wood for fire,wood burner ect but for everyday use i would buy some thing abit more sturdy.if you do get one keep manual as back up service with aldi is **** hot when you you replacement parts,for the money i would buy one for sure 100%.
As for your makita no1 sharpen the chain-just bought new chainsaw sharpener on ebay £19.95+postage on ebay,easy setup, spare grinding wheel,easy to use,done 6 chains in 50mins every one perfect.just type in 16057carol in ebay search.
no2- you can turn the chain bar upside down, perfectly ok to do this to even out wear on the bar
no3-take the bar off lay on flat surface should be no twist,perfectly flat,check both sides,and rocking the bars twisted thats the problem
no4-check the chain tensioner is free and easy to adjust
no5-run saw without bar on
no6-just use proper chainsaw oil to oil chain,lots of people use engine oil but just burns the chain out quicker(ok if stuck)
no7-if bar is bent just replace it half the cost of new saw
Hope this helps should be one of these cheers topchippyles.ps any advice just let me know be glad to help