Bad buying decisions or tool regrets

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My advice is, always buy the next size up from what you think you'd like!

Especially large machine tools.

Phil
I wish that were true! As I found with my old mitre saw, when you're working in a small space an oversized tool really can be a problem...

It's taken time and several large projects, but I've gradually figured out what works for me in my workshop. I guess the lesson of this thread is that you learn from experience and nobody gets everything right on the first try!
 
Before I bought the saw I'd read plenty of reviews and comparisons saying exactly that, but in my experience the Makita saw gave a pretty rough cut and loads of scorching on the wood. I tried various blades and speed settings, no difference. I even sent it back to Makita under warranty and they told me it was absolutely fine. I assumed it must have been some error in my technique or even a bent guide rail, but since switching to the festool my cuts have been absolutely perfect using the exact same rails.

Am I right in thinking that the Makita saw does not have a riving knife....?

Certainly, recently, a lot of sheet materials I've bought have a lot of internal stress in the materials. Without a riving knife, I would imagine the blade could get nipped up as the stress is relieved during a cut.

I was breaking down a sheet of MFC yesterday that was delivered on Monday. 2800mm x 2070mm x 18mm sized sheet.
I cut about 15mm off the long factory edge, moved the rail over 122mm, made another cut and the piece was bent like a banana with about 30mm deflection in the middle. I could visibly see the cut closing up behind the saw as it proceeded down the track.

Without the riving knife on my Festool saw, I can imagine it would have caused a rough cut with burning.
 
Am I right in thinking that the Makita saw does not have a riving knife....?

Certainly, recently, a lot of sheet materials I've bought have a lot of internal stress in the materials. Without a riving knife, I would imagine the blade could get nipped up as the stress is relieved during a cut.

I was breaking down a sheet of MFC yesterday that was delivered on Monday. 2800mm x 2070mm x 18mm sized sheet.
I cut about 15mm off the long factory edge, moved the rail over 122mm, made another cut and the piece was bent like a banana with about 30mm deflection in the middle. I could visibly see the cut closing up behind the saw as it proceeded down the track.

Without the riving knife on my Festool saw, I can imagine it would have caused a rough cut with burning.
You might be on to something there, I never even considered that as it's "common knowledge" plywood doesn't move in that way! I never noticed any movement in the wood but if it was a small amount it would be easy to miss so I'll pay more attention next time, but the riving knife on the festool should help as you say 👍
 
Not too many regrets, however I now look back on some of the more expensive tool purchases I made and wonder "what as I thinking?". Things like various Lie Nielsen planes that have been rarely used- I still revert to the vintage Records and Stanleys that cost me very little to acquire in comparison. However it appears these LN planes have retained and maybe even appreciated in value so it's not all bad news, more of an investment really!
 
Many years ago I bought a Bosch Rotozip drywall(?) Cutter 240 volt. It has very rarely come out of its box and the last time it did I had to get a new collet as the previous one had gone walkies. I actually used it more often with t.c. bits drilling/trimming ceramic tiles. Though it was not a huge price at the time, the cost/use ratio must be high! This ratio is actually more relevant than pure cost price.
 
I recently bought two items that made me think "brand over substance". A high tension hacksaw from Lenox and the Lufkin nite-eye tape measure.
These portray themselves as premium products but in the hand, they are poorly designed / finished / packaged and come over as cheap.
Lenox recip saw blades have been decent in the past but these purchases have killed both brands for me.

Other pet hates are anything with vapour thin zinc plate that has given way to rust within 12 mths and gizmos with that annoying soft touch rubberised finish plastic that goes slimy after a few years. Lessons learnt the hard way, these are things that I now take pains to avoid.
 
Some years back i bought a portamig mig welder, largely on the back of numerous recomendations.
I bought it to replace an elderly cebora. After much talking to the supplier it went back to the factory & had new parts fitted, It still wasnt any good. Manufacturer didnt want to know. In the end it was shoved under the bench & the ancient Cebora is back in use & welding perfectly.
 
No it has no riving knife but do you need one on a tracksaw, only the dewalt and festool have one.
Well,....Obviously Festool & Dewalt seem to think a tracksaw warrants having one.

Certainly, my experience would back up that decision.

What's the difference between a tracksaw needing/ wanting a riving knife and a table saw needing/ wanting one...?
It seems to be generally acknowledged that a table saw should have one.....Why not a tracksaw? Albeit, a retractable one for mid panel plunge cuts.
 
bought a SIP mig welder which I thought was going to be ok as wasn't the cheapest out there and was reasonably large output. It's been a PITA! It just would not weld nicely. I ended up changing the liner and adding a liner to the swan neck. In the end I think it is mostly due to the drive wheel. The wire wore a deeper groove so it wasn't pressing against the roller. Put it on a lathe and skimmed it and it runs better but i think i still need to take more off. When it runs properly it welds really nicely, when it doesn't it is awful.

On the other hand the Aldi stick welder my mother in law gave me seems to be brilliant. Gave it a go and it sparked up easily and held a really nice arc despite old rods that had been sitting with it for a couple of years.
 
Same trend as above, bought cheap, regretted it and spent more.

Few that come to mind:

Clarke table saw, was brand new to woodworking with no clue. Was 200 quid wasted as i replaced it 2 months later with a big Scheppach.
Even more of a waste was i tried to buy a fence kit from Rutlands to make the little one better, cost the same as the saw, never used it.

Another is a Dewalt hand power plane, never used it.
 
Well,....Obviously Festool & Dewalt seem to think a tracksaw warrants having one.
But then Bosch, Makita, Mafell & Milwaukee don't so cannot be essential like on a tablesaw.

Perhaps its because a table saw has a fence and a tracksaw does not. On the table saw you are pushing the wood in between a fence and the blade so without a riving knife much more chance of it nipping the blade and getting thrown out, plus a lot more power and larger diameter blade. Never had an issue with a tracksaw.
 
But then Bosch, Makita, Mafell & Milwaukee don't so cannot be essential like on a tablesaw.

Yes...,It does seem odd that all the other manufacturers dont think its necessary.

Personally, it just gives me peace of mind knowing that should the material being cut start to bind on the blade, then the riving knife should help to prevent the blade from nipping and causing a kick back of the saw.
 
With the Makita I never felt confident that it could (or should) rip solid timber, it was reserved solely for sheet goods. Now I have the festool I'd be much happier ripping solid stock and it also opens up the option of using it to "plane" one edge straight before cutting on the table saw.
So I guess the riving knife debate comes down to your intended use for the tool?
 
With the Makita I never felt confident that it could (or should) rip solid timber, it was reserved solely for sheet goods. Now I have the festool I'd be much happier ripping solid stock and it also opens up the option of using it to "plane" one edge straight before cutting on the table saw.
So I guess the riving knife debate comes down to your intended use for the tool?

Was just about to write the same thing.
I do have the Festool Track Saw, and the vast bulk of it's life
is spent cutting the waney edge off solid boards, mostly oak.
These often try to close up following the cut, which to my
mind makes the riving knife essential.
Maybe the other manufacturers intend for their saws to only
be cutting sheet goods, and not solid timber ?
 
It's a long time since I bought a tool and regretted it, I have learnt to only buy the good stuff, I also have pretty much everything I need so am not tempted by special offers etc.

I hate things that aren't well designed, if you use something a lot a minor niggle soon becomes a major niggle, the more expensive stuff generally gives you an all round better user experience and just works better.

The last purchase I made and regretted was in fact some of the Forstner bits from Lidl which were mentioned earlier, I opened them, tried one and threw them straight in the bin promising myself never to buy cheap rubbish again!
 
It's a long time since I bought a tool and regretted it, I have learnt to only buy the good stuff, I also have pretty much everything I need so am not tempted by special offers etc.

I hate things that aren't well designed, if you use something a lot a minor niggle soon becomes a major niggle, the more expensive stuff generally gives you an all round better user experience and just works better.

The last purchase I made and regretted was in fact some of the Forstner bits from Lidl which were mentioned earlier, I opened them, tried one and threw them straight in the bin promising myself never to buy cheap rubbish again!

I'm with you here, I've been making a real conscious effort recently to try and figure out if I'm buying my "forever tools" or just more junk I'll need to replace one day, it's hard sometimes!

Lidl special buys are always a temptation, particularly when they get great reviews as being "surprisingly good for the money" - well sure maybe you won't get a better tool for the same price, but that's little consolation if it's a frustration to use or dies after a year! Better off spending a little more in the first place for something decent that'll last.
My weaknes has always been "oh I'll just get the cheap one for this quick job", then 6 months later I need it again but can't face the misery of using it and decide to buy something better that time around. Cheaper to get it right first time 😂
 
Yes...,It does seem odd that all the other manufacturers dont think its necessary.

Personally, it just gives me peace of mind knowing that should the material being cut start to bind on the blade, then the riving knife should help to prevent the blade from nipping and causing a kick back of the saw.
Maybe they include a riving knife because it costs them about £0.15 each saw and they know it will get them some sales over their competition?
I have the makita and I have to admit I've never had an issue with binding, but I always cut on a solid / flat surface so maybe that's why?...
 

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