Benchwayze
Established Member
Aidey,
Private Message sent.
Private Message sent.
guidance with my tablesaw, very new to the sport.
- Thread starter aideym
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Whatever you do - get into the habit of using 2 push sticks. This isn't just an inconvenient safety measure - it also increases your control, reach and throughput.
Lons
Established Member
Change the blade for a GOOD one. The blade supplied with the machines are rarely much use and hardwood is as described - hard!
Then as advised, spend the time to set the saw up properly before you damage the machine or more importantly, yourself! Misuse it and it will jump up and bite you!
As Jacob said, get a couple of decent push sticks. You're likely to lose a few digits if you don't :shock:
As an example: Ive been dimensioning some teak and sappele, 30mm thick boards into 70mm strips and then down the middle to halve the thickness. Without thinking I made the first cut with a 40t blade. My saw, a SIP 10" 3hp cut it ok but then I changed to a 24t Freud and it was like a knife through butter.
Bob
Then as advised, spend the time to set the saw up properly before you damage the machine or more importantly, yourself! Misuse it and it will jump up and bite you!
As Jacob said, get a couple of decent push sticks. You're likely to lose a few digits if you don't :shock:
As an example: Ive been dimensioning some teak and sappele, 30mm thick boards into 70mm strips and then down the middle to halve the thickness. Without thinking I made the first cut with a 40t blade. My saw, a SIP 10" 3hp cut it ok but then I changed to a 24t Freud and it was like a knife through butter.
Bob
Chrispy
Established Member
Get a new blade, it sounds like the one your useing has lost it's tension and is no longer flat, it may look flat when stationary and cold but when your cutting it will soon heat up and warp, the more it bends the hotter it gets the more it bends etc. new blade..
I spent some time with the machine upside down today, checking out some of the advice given. The belt is as tight as I think it should be based on years of working with cars, bikes and belts. Any tighter will cause premature bearing wear. The only alarming issue for me, as someone who believes in overbuilding is the way the motor mounts. everything hangs off an 8mm rod held down by 6 machine screws, 3 of which won't torque down. These are bolted to the table top which is 16 gauge extruded aluminum. There is little or no rigidity in this design and it takes no significant pressure to cause deflection in all attitudes. As a result any additional pressure required either through me using the wrong blade or my naff pallet wood will cause less than striaght cuts. The design calls for a sharp blade and low resistance to run straight.
The fence is pretty strudy and clamps down hard but I can see how it could be deflected if pressed, however this is easily remedied by replacing the short lenth of box section with a far beefier and longer length of box section with a rod operated latch welded to the rear. I made a similar fence for my router table recently.
I have ordered on recommendation a 24t freud blade which will no doubt help no end.
My only thoughts on the flimsy table is to machine screw some steel plate underneath. It isn't ideal and will localise the vibration metal fatigue which could shorter the useful life. I can replace the three dodgy screws and check the quality of the housings, fortunately I have a friend with a 5 axis cnc milling machine who could make better carriers if needs be but I don't think I can make a silk purse out of it. From what I have seen I need to spend about £500 on a better spec machine so it may be worth trying these adaptations in the meantime.
The fence is pretty strudy and clamps down hard but I can see how it could be deflected if pressed, however this is easily remedied by replacing the short lenth of box section with a far beefier and longer length of box section with a rod operated latch welded to the rear. I made a similar fence for my router table recently.
I have ordered on recommendation a 24t freud blade which will no doubt help no end.
My only thoughts on the flimsy table is to machine screw some steel plate underneath. It isn't ideal and will localise the vibration metal fatigue which could shorter the useful life. I can replace the three dodgy screws and check the quality of the housings, fortunately I have a friend with a 5 axis cnc milling machine who could make better carriers if needs be but I don't think I can make a silk purse out of it. From what I have seen I need to spend about £500 on a better spec machine so it may be worth trying these adaptations in the meantime.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I would not swap the short fence for a long one if I were you. The fence is short for a reason! A short fence helps to prevent kickback by giving the wood somewhere to go it it bends as it is cut. A long fence just forces the wood into the blade, making kickback more likely. Also, if it locks onto the back rail as well as the front, although it might be more sturdy it is less likely to be square.
You can make a new fence which is rock solid for not much money and I have published details of such a fence I built for my saw. It's rock solid and locks only at the front, on a 3-point saddle so it is always 100% square. I made mine, including new rails for the saw, for less than £50, IIRC, and most of that went on the clamp itself.
S
You can make a new fence which is rock solid for not much money and I have published details of such a fence I built for my saw. It's rock solid and locks only at the front, on a 3-point saddle so it is always 100% square. I made mine, including new rails for the saw, for less than £50, IIRC, and most of that went on the clamp itself.
S
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Well from the questions you are asking, I do think they will benefit you. Money back if they don't etc, etc.
S
