devonwoody
Established Member
I like it so will use idea to make a fruit stand of my own.
Got this fruit stand off the TV
- Thread starter devonwoody
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I like it so will use idea to make a fruit stand of my own.
OPJ
Established Member
That actually looks dead simple to make... Leaving everything square, cut them all to the same length and cut the notches. After that, do all the shaping and cut them to their individual/paired lengths.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with, though, as you often have good ideas in your box designs.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with, though, as you often have good ideas in your box designs.
devonwoody
Established Member
OPJ":jyb9rx6q said:That actually looks dead simple to make... Leaving everything square, cut them all to the same length and cut the notches. After that, do all the shaping and cut them to their individual/paired lengths.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with, though, as you often have good ideas in your box designs.
Alternate coloured woods come to mind
There is an elipse shape to the outline as well.
The program had been recorded and when watched on playback I went and got the camera and put the program to pause and let the camera do it on auto.
Looks very similar to this, but upside down - these are actually shelves (found link on another website) http://www.untothislast.co.uk/Shelving/CD%20Racks.html#
Cheers
Tony
Cheers
Tony
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Personally I think that is deceptively complex.
Not difficult, but complex.
All those halving joints are different and they are all on curved surfaces.
Easy enough to deal with on a batch job, a real pain on a one-off.
S
Not difficult, but complex.
All those halving joints are different and they are all on curved surfaces.
Easy enough to deal with on a batch job, a real pain on a one-off.
S
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
I agree with Steve. This looks like it could be a little harder to make than it might appear. Still, it could be done. I'd draw out the parts and figure out how deep the lap joints need to be. The pieces could be cut in pairs though. You could set up a jig like a box joint jig to make sure registration is proper.
Just for fun. This isn't exactly the same as your photo shows and I didn't bother with the bottom.
Just for fun. This isn't exactly the same as your photo shows and I didn't bother with the bottom.
devonwoody
Established Member
If I go for it I would consider contrast laminations,
and if Dave wants to give us a pdf plan of any sort, I'm in.
and if Dave wants to give us a pdf plan of any sort, I'm in.
devonwoody
Established Member
Thinking more about this project, I note there are three shapes/forms used and repeated.
So if three formers are first made they can be utilised to create the ten pieces seen.
Can anyone contribute more to the making of this item?
So if three formers are first made they can be utilised to create the ten pieces seen.
Can anyone contribute more to the making of this item?
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
DW, I'll see what I can do. You probably don't want to build from what I drew last night. The curves are compound in my drawing.
devonwoody
Established Member
Dave R":cwds3r3o said:
Thanks, I look forward to your posting.
xy mosian
Established Member
Cut the cross halving joints before the profiles?
xy
As olly said
xy
xy
As olly said
xy
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
I never thought the jig I used to cut the halving joints on my chess table thread would cause so much interest, three emails yesterday, two today
No doubt our resident jig maestro Steve Maskery has the perfect version of this cobbled together jig, As I know he can't comment in the WIP thread of my chess board perhaps if I post this in the "Design" section on Devonwoodies bowl thread he will be able to reply.
So here is a slightly better pic of just the jig I cobbled up to do this job. It's simply a board that runs in the rail of the router table with a back fence (the taller fence) screwed 90deg to the board. The darker piece of wood(venered mdf) is screwed to the jig just to act as a backer, once the jig has been passed over the cutter the slot cut makes it very easy to take a measurement from the cut to the temporary stop clamped on the router fence.
To see a full size pic click on this link http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/393 ... eb35_o.jpg
No doubt our resident jig maestro Steve Maskery has the perfect version of this cobbled together jig, As I know he can't comment in the WIP thread of my chess board perhaps if I post this in the "Design" section on Devonwoodies bowl thread he will be able to reply.
So here is a slightly better pic of just the jig I cobbled up to do this job. It's simply a board that runs in the rail of the router table with a back fence (the taller fence) screwed 90deg to the board. The darker piece of wood(venered mdf) is screwed to the jig just to act as a backer, once the jig has been passed over the cutter the slot cut makes it very easy to take a measurement from the cut to the temporary stop clamped on the router fence.
To see a full size pic click on this link http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/393 ... eb35_o.jpg
Steve Maskery
Established Member
That looks fine to me. Jigs don't have to be "posh". It's just nice when they are
If I have a criticism it's my concern that that is quite a deep cut to make in one pass, and if you are doing it in two or three then you have the problem of ensuring that the workpiece is in exactly the same place each time. A stop on the fence would sort that out.
The only other concern is that fact that the cutter is very exposed and unguarded. But I do exactly the same so I can hardly moan. I raise the point just so that others are aware, too.
Personally I would cut a 1/4" halving joint on the TS, but that's because I have the capability and I can guard the process properly.
Cheers
Steve
If I have a criticism it's my concern that that is quite a deep cut to make in one pass, and if you are doing it in two or three then you have the problem of ensuring that the workpiece is in exactly the same place each time. A stop on the fence would sort that out.
The only other concern is that fact that the cutter is very exposed and unguarded. But I do exactly the same so I can hardly moan. I raise the point just so that others are aware, too.
Personally I would cut a 1/4" halving joint on the TS, but that's because I have the capability and I can guard the process properly.
Cheers
Steve
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Steve Maskery":3h94hdjm said:
Thanks for pointing out the dangers and pitfalls Steve, I was well aware of pushing the depth in one cut using such a small diameter cutter, and it was the problems of ensuring the exact depth of each and every cut that forced me to do it. You 100 % correct in saying it's better/easier to do on a table saw, that jig in the pic is actually made for the table saw, that's why it don't quite reach the cutter using it on my router table. :lol:
xy mosian
Established Member
Perhaps I'm sticking my neck out here, but..... I think I can generate profiles for the individual pieces.
If you would let me know the dimensions I'll have a bash.
Outer diameter ?
Inner diameter ?
Dish of inner from flat ?
Dish of outer from flat ?
Diameter of any required foot ?
Height of foot at its edge ?
Foot hollow ?
Rim thickness ?
If this works they will appear as dimensioned jpg's, if that's alright.
I can feel the guillotine
xy
If you would let me know the dimensions I'll have a bash.
Outer diameter ?
Inner diameter ?
Dish of inner from flat ?
Dish of outer from flat ?
Diameter of any required foot ?
Height of foot at its edge ?
Foot hollow ?
Rim thickness ?
If this works they will appear as dimensioned jpg's, if that's alright.
I can feel the guillotine xy
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
Does that mean I don't have to draw it?
I haven't done it yet because I'm trying to get some other jobs out of the way first. Only some shaker tables, a garden shed, and two or three other projects to go.
I haven't done it yet because I'm trying to get some other jobs out of the way first. Only some shaker tables, a garden shed, and two or three other projects to go.
xy mosian
Established Member
Dave, I havn't managed to draw it, with Sketchup at least, but I have managed to get profiles of the various pieces. At least enough to make something.
xy
xy
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
In what form do you have the profiles?
xy mosian
Established Member
Basically I have profiles as exported sections, png. That is where I get stuck. I think it should be possible to take a 2d profile and make it one face of a solid. Push/pull to give thickness and move around to create the bowl. I'm just looking into use of 2d image files.
xy
xy
SketchUp Guru
Established Member
Sure. You can import the PNG into SketchUp and trace round it to create the face for Push/Pull. I would import it as an image and not as a material. Then, after you've traced around the shape, delete the image.
In case you're going to ask, No. SketchUp won't automatically detect the edge in the PNG. There is a program that can. It's called WinTopo. It'll allow you to create a vector drawing which can be saved as DWG or DXF and that can be imported into SketchUp.
In case you're going to ask, No. SketchUp won't automatically detect the edge in the PNG. There is a program that can. It's called WinTopo. It'll allow you to create a vector drawing which can be saved as DWG or DXF and that can be imported into SketchUp.
