Good news!

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Steve Maskery":1gk49wxq said:
. The trouble is, the FE is a dry powder one, and it doesn't half make a mess. Goodness knows what it would be like if I had to put out a proper inferno.

Dry powder are a menace in confined areas and it would be very easy to lose one's bearings. They also don't have a cooling effect so re-ignition is very possible. Yachting Monthly did various destructive tests on an old boat, one of which was use of a dry powder extinguisher - have a look at this 9 1/2 minutes into the video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL_VdzjM-24
 
Glad everything survived in the grand scheme of things.
It's difficult to tell from the photos, but what sort of flex is fitted to the inside of those light reflectors?
 
Well it was whatever they came with. I was given them, but I understand that that is what they were made with. It's now got that braided cable stuff that domestic irons have.
 
petermillard":2weindd9 said:
But more importantly... how are the videos coming along??

Two steps forward one step back. Or maybe the other way round. I have done one about 7 and a half minutes and I'm pleased with the contents, but I've changed the lighting in view of this episode and I think it's not as good. Also the sound isn't right yet. I've got my camera gain turned down as low as it will go and the signal is still clipping.

It's all a lot harder than I remember.

I think I'm going to spend the day in the kitchen instead.
 
In my ignorance I have always assumed that electrical circuits would trip out in faults like this. The RCD on my consumer unit is certainly eager to trip out anyway. Could you share with us what circuit this was connected to Steve and what protection was on it?
 
I have 4 sockets on one circuit in the ceiling, on an MCB. Interestingly it was not that MCB that tripped, but the one in the house that serves the whole of the workshop.
 
Steve Maskery":3pnheamz said:
petermillard":3pnheamz said:
But more importantly... how are the videos coming along??

Two steps forward one step back. Or maybe the other way round. I have done one about 7 and a half minutes and I'm pleased with the contents, but I've changed the lighting in view of this episode and I think it's not as good. Also the sound isn't right yet. I've got my camera gain turned down as low as it will go and the signal is still clipping.

It's all a lot harder than I remember...

Sounds more like ‘analysis paralysis’ tbh, Steve, though worth remembering that you’re aiming to so something better than you had before, which will take more effort.

Feel free to PM me if you feel I can help/advise at all.

Cheers, Peter.
 
Thank you Pete, I may well take you up on that.

Just taken delivery of two CO2s. A tad miffed that they didn't come with brackets, but fortunately I had a couple of S hooks I could press into service.

IMG_20181019_135420696_HDR.jpg


There is another one by the bandsaw.

The Horns are twin-walled, so they shouldn't burn my fingers off if I ever have to use them.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20181019_135420696_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20181019_135420696_HDR.jpg
    89.3 KB
What sort of camera are you using?

I get much better results using a separate mic loading into the camera (“manual input”).
Even better results using my Tascam DR-40 Recorder.
Rode do a lapel mic that uses an iPhone.
The nearer the mike is to the source the better the sound.
I use fcpx to edit which will also sync the sounds though you can get round it by making a clapperboard or clapping your hands to produce a “location point”.

Rod
 
I read this with the relief that everything turned out alright and the relief i dont have hot chips darting around my workshed.....

Well.... although ive been unwell the last few days i have been in there and had a little go on my new lathe, needles to say it is messy and there are a lot of dust and shavings about.

I dont have a spanner for my new lathe so while looking for something in a drawer i came across a suutable piece of metal... out came the angle grinder without a second thought and a spanner was made.

It was only after that... that this and comments about hot chips and dust popped in my head... and of course i became paranoid for the next few hours and couldn't help but keep checking on my workshed..., all was fine.

I shall be gettinga FE tomorrow, better safe than sorry.
 
Never considered a FE for my workshop, a Co2 extinguisher landed on my doorstep yesterday.
Thanks for the nudge and glad it didn't end in a complete disaster!
 
Harbo":1pi3o34w said:
What sort of camera are you using?

I get much better results using a separate mic loading into the camera (“manual input”).
Even better results using my Tascam DR-40 Recorder.
Rode do a lapel mic that uses an iPhone.
The nearer the mike is to the source the better the sound.
I use fcpx to edit which will also sync the sounds though you can get round it by making a clapperboard or clapping your hands to produce a “location point”.

I'm using a Panasonic G7. I've also got a GoPro (well, a lookalike) but I've not used that yet.

Decent Radio clip mic, worn upside down. Cheap and nasty Shotgun mic mounted on the camera. Both feed into a Saramonic mixer unit, which feeds into the camera. So my Voice is on the Right channel and the Room Ambience is on the Left channel.

I'm using 2 redheads and a panel light to build a three-light setup.

Shooting at about f4.8 1/40thsec. AVCHD files.

Editing in Corel VS2018 Ultimate. Video tools are good but the sound tools are woeful. So I'm doing final processing in Audacity.
 
Steve Maskery":1cb0qce2 said:
Oh, you want more than that do you? Oh alright.

I've been wanting to get back to doing some filming for ages, but there has always been an excuse not to get round to it. I have a new camera, radio mic, computer and software, so there is a lot to learn about.

Also, I need to make sure that my production standards are more in keeping with what is expected today. Ten years ago nobody expected TV quality from a YT video, today, anything less than that is not acceptable. So yes, lots to learn.

I've decided to start by re-filming the very first thing I ever recorded, my Square of Thales gadget thingy. I've posted about on here before. So I've been filming clips, changing lighting, mic positions, the position of my workbench etc, etc, etc,
and sending them off to Eric the Viking, who is very generously putting me right, (he has professional expertise, especially when it comes to audio).

A couple of days ago I was filming, when I heard a fizzing noise from one of the lights. It is hung from the ceiling just behind me, and before I could switch it off, I had sparks raining down. Well it burned itself out in a second or two, and so I dismantled it. One of the ceramic holders (they are halogen bulbs) had fractured in two, the bulb end was no longer making a good connection, arcing, sparking - you get the picture.

So I took it apart, cannibalised an old outside light for the ceramic end and rebuilt it, all new cable connections. So far so good.

Today I was talking to my viewer when there was an enormous bang and all the lights went out. I say all the lights, but in fact it wasn't pitch black, there was an orange glow above me. The light was on fire. Proper flames and all that.

So I opened the door so I could see what was going on. Rather than the flames dying down, they were getting stronger, so I decided that it was time to intervene. I have a fire extinguisher behind my bench, so I grabbed it and tried to operate it. There is a safety pin, but I couldn't pull it out. The safety pin has a safety plug on the end of it! So once I'd figured that out, I removed the safety pin safety plug, then the safety pin and gave the light a blast.

It was only about half a second, but it was enough. The trouble is, the FE is a dry powder one, and it doesn't half make a mess. Goodness knows what it would be like if I had to put out a proper inferno.

So, conflagration averted, but with the air akin to a Victorian London murder mystery, I set about cleaning up. I have a Microclean air filter that I never use and had been thinking of selling, but not after this, it's been great at helping to clear the air.

Here are some pics.
When I took down the light I was pleasantly surprised to see that it appeared to be intact.


Even the (brand new) bulb didn't look to be damaged, just dusty from the FE.


But on removing the parabola, it looked a bit more ugly.


But just a mo. The lampholder looks fine, there is no scorching at the ends, where I would expect. The problem is where the mains cable comes into the redhead. Maybe I clamped it too tight, I don't know, but it looks like the insulation has failed, it has shorted and caught fire. This is the section of cable:



So I've rebuilt it using a length of cable from an electric iron, I've changed the way it was earthed, so that there is a lot less cable in the body of the lamp and put in a lower wattage bulb.

So, let's hope this is going to be third time lucky.

PS Although it's been on my TUIT list for yonks I am going to go and splash the cash for a CO2 extinguisher. Expensive by comparison, yes, but nowhere near as messy.
Looking forward to the videos Steve.

Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
 
Flex on Irons is rubber with the cloth covering so wont melt but can still burn. Best flex for high power / temp lights is Silicon Rubber you can hold it in a flame and very little happens to it and I've not seen it burn. Is now frequently used for stage lights because of it's temperature resistance.
 
Why did you put a smaller light in? As long as the cable is suitably rated for the light it will be fine as far as the load goes, and a fire caused by other means such as a missing grommet will still occur. The fuse/RCD circuit is there to protect the wiring not the appliance - perhaps check the ratings?
Unfortunately, I can't find any good pics, but the brand new Bonner Lab at Rothera Research Station in the Antarctic was totally destroyed by a fire in 2001. It was caused by a missing grommet in a lighting cable going out to a light above the door. Low power electricity, but flammable insulation nearby! You have clearly shown good sense in fitting fire resistant materials at the outset. Good for you, and I'm glad that no great harm resulted.
As stated elsewhere, a AFFF extinguisher would be handy for carbonaceous fires - or keep a bucket of water handy!
Duncan
 
I used a smaller bulb for two reasons. Not just to reduce the power consumption, but because I also needed less illumination from that position.
 
Back
Top