Gluing Iroko

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RogerM

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If I decide to use Iroko for my window project will I have problems gluing it? Reading around it suggests wiping the surfaces to be glued with acetone first to de-oil it. Even assuming I can find a ready supply of acetone in reasonable quantities (it ain't cheap), would an alternative like white spirit, turpentine or meths do as well?

If I use an epoxy (like West Systems) is it still necessary to wipe with a de-oiler first?

Does Idigbo suffer from the same problem?
 
Use your wife's nail varnish remover, or buy some...though that might be a bit embarassing :p
 
What glue are you using at the moment? I made a benchtop from Iroko and just used standard PVA, it was reclaimed stuff so perhaps that made the difference?
 
Hudson Carpentry":30t2tg5l said:
I have glued Iroko up many of time and never wiped over with anything other then the glue its self (titebond). I haven't had any issues.

I have never wiped Iroko before gluing either, I have with Teak, I wonder that because Iroko has pretty much replaced Teak in a lot of uses if there has been some confusion between them.

Tom
 
No need to clean iroko (unlike teak) and if you require acetone, Lloyds the Chemists sell a little bottle for £1 (or it was a coupla years ago) - Rob
 
Don't you just love this forum! Thanks guys. Unless someone can convince me to the contrary I'll be going ahead with iroko.

As someone pointed out elsewhere, there are plenty of examples of window frames that are 50 years old that are not falling apart, and so long as they are maintained well, there is no need to get too anal about the glue. Think I might stick with the TB3 on that basis, but peg the corners of the sash..
 
If it convinces you anymore for windows I would be using TB3 as well. Its the only glue I use for exterior projects, I normally use Iroko for out door to as like someone said its now replacing teak and at 7x cheaper.
 
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