Garden gate build advice, please.

[hughcollier]

Looking for a bit of advice, please.

I need to build a garden gate to replace one that’s practically fallen apart. I’m going to build the frame from treated 2x4 which will be morticed and tenoned pretty much as shown in this series of videos (although I will be cutting the mortices with a router) and the tenons with a track saw.

When it comes time to add the shiplap boards my question is what is the best way to attach these?

I’ll probably screw the batons on that run around the inside of the frame but for attaching the shiplap boards nails are obviously better than screws but I only have an 18 gauge brad nailer. Will this be sufficient or do I need chunkier nails? If so what size would you recommend? I’m quite happy to bang them in by hand but would obviously be easier to use the nail gun.

Also, if I’m going to paint the gate would it be best to paint the shiplap boards before installing them? That way if the wood moves it won’t expose any unpainted sections? On the one hand, this seems sensible and on the other sealing the wood before it's had time to "weather in" while it situ seems less sensible.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[TheTiddles]

Use ring-shank nails if you want them to stay put well.
At least one coat on cladding before it goes up or you get gaps.

 

[Jameshow]

Looking for a bit of advice, please.

I need to build a garden gate to replace one that’s practically fallen apart. I’m going to build the frame from treated 2x4 which will be morticed and tenoned pretty much as shown in this series of videos (although I will be cutting the mortices with a router) and the tenons with a track saw.

When it comes time to add the shiplap boards my question is what is the best way to attach these?

I’ll probably screw the batons on that run around the inside of the frame but for attaching the shiplap boards nails are obviously better than screws but I only have an 18 gauge brad nailer. Will this be sufficient or do I need chunkier nails? If so what size would you recommend? I’m quite happy to bang them in by hand but would obviously be easier to use the nail gun.

Also, if I’m going to paint the gate would it be best to paint the shiplap boards before installing them? That way if the wood moves it won’t expose any unpainted sections? On the one hand, this seems sensible and on the other sealing the wood before it's had time to "weather in" while it situ seems less sensible.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Make sure you have expansion gaps in the cladding.

Make the bottom rail behind the cladding so that you don't have a ledge for rain water to pool.

Look for a recent thread on driveway gates for ideas.

Cheers James

 

[Kevin mc veigh]

I made a glued up panel then routered a v groove at equal spacings

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Cut your all joints then soak the parts in a good clear preservative and dry before assembly. I pass one I made thirty years ago from spruce that's still perfectly good. All the parts were pickled for a fortnight in Cuprinol.

 

[Jameshow]

I made a glued up panel then routered a v groove at equal spacings

With no expansion gaps won't it pull itself apart?

Cheers James

 

[hughcollier]

Thanks, everyone for your input.

Use ring-shank nails if you want them to stay put well.

Something like this?

Make sure you have expansion gaps in the cladding.

How big a gap would you use? 3mm? (Guess it depends on how wet the timber is at the time of the build, right?)

I made a glued up panel then routered a v groove at equal spacings

This looks great! My gate will be a lot less decorative and much more utilitarian I'm afraid.

Cut your all joints then soak the parts in a good clear preservative and dry before assembly. I pass one I made thirty years ago from spruce that's still perfectly good. All the parts were pickled for a fortnight in Cuprinol.

Will do. Recently started using this stuff on everything around the garden but I suppose only time will tell if it's any good or not.

 

[Mark18PLL]

You could also use half lap joints for your frame.

 

[Jameshow]

Yea couple of mil if dry, 1 mil if wet treated stuff?

cheers James

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could also use half lap joints for your frame.

Easy, but they leave an awful lot of exposed end grain for exterior joinery.

 

[Mark18PLL]

Easy, but they leave an awful lot of exposed end grain for exterior joinery.

Yes i understand what you are saying and you could say its exposing double the end grain but its not that much really and i would treat all end grain anyway that is used for exterior and use treated wood. I suppose in part its also what look you are trying to achieve, if its a rustic gate look then half lap joints are fine but if its a more clean finish tenons would look better.

M

 

[Kevin mc veigh]

With no expansion gaps won't it pull itself apart?

Cheers James

It’s not seated in a rebate but it’s fixed onto the the face of the door … will expand and contact as 1 piece .

 

[Jameshow]

It’s not seated in a rebate but it’s fixed onto the the face of the door … will expand and contact as 1 piece .

But timber expands much more across the grain compared to with the grain of the Stiles.

Cheers James

 

[Kevin mc veigh]

But timber expands much more across the grain compared to with the grain of the Stiles.

Cheers James

Have been making a lot of these . Have my own fitted 3 years . No problems I’m glad to say .