Fox 5/8" Mortiser Problem - HELP Please!

[Digit]

As I mentioned earlier Olly roll pins were at one time used as shear pins. That may not be so in the case of your machine, but why take risks?
Stick with the manufactures spec mate.

Roy.

 

[9fingers]

Yup What Roy said!

Provided you can cut a reasonable number of mortices with a sharp chisel before a roll pin gives way then just replace them when they do shear.

A darn sight easier than replacing a gear with dental problems.


Bob

 

[Digit]

gear with dental problems.

:lol:

Love that!

Roy.

 

[Tony Spear]

Now though, I'm a little confused as to whether or not I should try using a solid pin, in case (as Aidan suggested) it does eventually knacker the gear?

If you use a solid pin, it should be in the form of a high tensile bolt and needs to be a precise fit in the hole/s. Any movement will cause wear, which will make the holes oval, which in turn will increase the wear until the whole assembly is knackered!

Edit to add: That's the point of the solid taper pins that 9fingers mentions. These are properly known as "cotter pins" and when fitted the nut on the thin end is kept tight to ensure no movement. The commonest illustration of what happens if there is any slack in the fit is that horrible "kick" that you get witht the older traditional bikes when your pedal passes over top dead centre - loose cotter pin and associated wear which can't be fixed!


The point about roll pins is that they are to all intents and purposes a slightly oversize tubular section with a slot along the length. When you drive it in the pin is slightly compressed and will ensure that there is no wear inducing movement.

Stick to the roll pins!!