FOX 10" CAST IRON SAW BENCH WITH SLIDING TABLE

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Hi Dave,
Thanks for the welcome,
Didnt really have any option, my mate threatened to beat me up if I didnt get one :) , yeah Im sure they will sort it out.

Allan
 
Hi Mike

My sliding table rails arrived on Saturday and the saw today. I have removed all the packing with one exception. Beneath the motor there is a piece of polystyrene approx 100mm square which appears to be covered with waxed paper. I believe this is probably transit packing, did yours have it and did you remove it? I am waiting for a reply from Fox, hopefully tomorrow morning regarding this.
The saw itself arrived on 2 pallets, a main one and a sub one just slightly deeper than the saw body, making it approx 275mm from the ground. I was wondering if you considered putting on the saw base and then lifting and tilting the saw at an angle so the legs touch the ground? I was thinking of maybe doing it this way in order to avoid 2 lifts, but on reflection it may be too dangerous. What do you think?

Cheers Con
 
Con Owen":3p5dajs7 said:
Hi Mike

My sliding table rails arrived on Saturday and the saw today. I have removed all the packing with one exception. Beneath the motor there is a piece of polystyrene approx 100mm square which appears to be covered with waxed paper. I believe this is probably transit packing, did yours have it and did you remove it? I am waiting for a reply from Fox, hopefully tomorrow morning regarding this.
The saw itself arrived on 2 pallets, a main one and a sub one just slightly deeper than the saw body, making it approx 275mm from the ground. I was wondering if you considered putting on the saw base and then lifting and tilting the saw at an angle so the legs touch the ground? I was thinking of maybe doing it this way in order to avoid 2 lifts, but on reflection it may be too dangerous. What do you think?


Cheers Con

Hi Con,

Yes, remove all the packaging, including that bit.

I can't quite picture what you mean about lifting and tilting. We lifted ours off the pallet and onto cardboard, fitted the base and feet and then pushed it face down and then lifted it the right way up. It's pretty heavy but really not that bad.

Good luck
Mike
 
Con Owen":8sodz7ap said:
Beneath the motor there is a piece of polystyrene approx 100mm square which appears to be covered with waxed paper. I believe this is probably transit packing, did yours have it and did you remove it?

To get at this I fitted the wheel you use to set the saw at an angle, wound it off the 90 deg to 80 deg or so and the packing fell out.
 
Hi Mike, Stoday

Thanks for info, very helpful.
I did not make myself clear re tilting, all I meant was to lift and tilt it forward, gradually lowering it so the legs touched the ground, however being someway of the floor (275mm or so) I discarded the idea as the weight and momentum would have probably caused an accident, am going to do it as you did. Unfortunately the pallet it came on was to wide to go down the side of the house, so had to have it put in garage. What I managed to do was to slide and lift each corner of the sub pallet so it went on to a mobile base (luckily the same height). Now all I have got to do is take it down the side of the house and get in my shed! Will do this at the weekend. I have got a Dakota mobile base which I hope to somehow tie on to the cabinet base feet while it is upside down so that when the saw is lifted on its back, then upright the base will already be attached. I do not know if this approach will work, anyone got any other idea of how to put it on a mobile stand, as it is essential that I be able to move it.?

Cheers Con
 
Con Owen":121hk8hn said:
Hi Mike, Stoday

I have got a Dakota mobile base which I hope to somehow tie on to the cabinet base feet while it is upside down so that when the saw is lifted on its back, then upright the base will already be attached. I do not know if this approach will work, anyone got any other idea of how to put it on a mobile stand, as it is essential that I be able to move it.?

Cheers Con

Hi Con,

It would need a huge mobile base as there is a foot which supports the lower of the two big rails that the sliding carriage runs on and I guess you would have to have that on the base as well.

Why not do what I do and leave the cars outside and use the garage as a workshop!

Cheers
Mike
 
Hi Mike

Any car we have had has never been in the garage. What with tools (although I only have SCMS, radial arm saw--big mistake, P/T, usual bits and pieces) plus garden implements it has always been hazardous to try and work in, I am naturally untidy--going to make big effort to get organised, hence the shed (intention is to have the garage completely clear except for the garden tools). It is 14x11, I have insulated the roof with 25mm Kingspan foil b/s and the walls with 50mm, the floor was insulated with 50mm polystyrene by an accommodating supplier, have still to do the plasterboard and electric supply.
By the way I was impressed with how well packed the saw came, had a bit of a job getting the sliding table top out though, it was let down by a poor manual though. I only flicked through the manual quickly and did not
see any reference to a supporting leg for the lower rail for the sliding table--makes sense though, just me not thinking. I shall have to improvise re the support leg, Axminster and Rutlands both do adjustable feet which I believe can be adapted to suit it. My intention is to ensure that anything heavy is movable relatively easily to ensure maximum use of available space.

Cheers Con
 
Con Owen":svsxpxmn said:
Hi Mike
By the way I was impressed with how well packed the saw came, had a bit of a job getting the sliding table top out though
Yes, mine was a devil to get out too but it was all really well packed.

Con Owen":svsxpxmn said:
it was let down by a poor manual though.
Totally agree about the manual, I found that the descriptions were hopeless but the diagrams are pretty good

Con Owen":svsxpxmn said:
I only flicked through the manual quickly and did not see any reference to a supporting leg for the lower rail for the sliding table--
I'm at work so don't have the drawings with me but look at the picture with the sliding table on it. There is a round bar that bolts onto the end of the lower rail, a cast iron foot (about 3inch round) attaches to this and is adjustable in case your floor is uneven.

Cheers
Mike
 
Hi Mike
Saw the sliding table support in diagram. Managed to get the saw in the shed on Saturday. It took me 2 hours to bolt together the stand, feet and attache the dust extraction outlet. Yesterday (because I had to wait for help) lifted the saw upright, much easier than I expected, tilted the saw, slid the mobile stand under then lifted the saw and placed it on the stand again much easier than expected. It moves really easily. Fitted the table extension this am. Slight niggle here, no matter which way it is adjusted its a nats whisker out near the centre, probably me just being ultra fussy.Adjusted the mitre gauge as it was out. Couldn't resist giving it a try. Impressed with the accuracy, when checked with the square the cut was spot on. Decided to give the top a thorough clean before putting the front, back and side rails on, not sure what to use, I remember seeing Webrax recommended on this forum but not sure which grade. Hit a problem connected with the sheds flooring which is 3/4'' plywood, floor bearers are 3x2 at 400 centres, at one point one of the wheels of the stand sank into the plywood, probably a void--this has now made me cautious about moving the saw until I resolve the problem.

Cheers Con
 
Hi Con,

I'm glad you got it working and you're pleased with it.

I have to say I didn't check the table as carefully as you did but it's stood the acid test and is cutting as square as I can measure. I've had to get a set of office furniture finished so haven't had the time to spend on really setting it up but I intend to align the table and fence as per Scrit's suggestions https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11445&highlight=dust+cut because I am getting a bit of tearout on wide pieces on the back of the blade.

I'm impressed you got it onto a mobile base because I thought it was too heavy to really be able to move around. What castors did you use?

I haven't cleaned the top of mine yet but if you find something good to clean yours with I'd be grateful if you'd tell me what you used.

Cheers
Mike
 
Hi Mike

The mobile stand is a Dakota. Its load capacity is 230kgs so there is a safe clearance with the Fox being 174kgs. Its wheels are approx 3''. I still have the problem of resolving what to put over the plywood floor as when I had to move it to get it ready (will do tomorrow) for putting the sliding table rails on a wheel hit another void in the plywood, so I will not move it again unless essential. The plywood itself is 3/4'' but probably of low quality. I have some 18mm MDF so will trial it first to see if it successfully spreads the load before deciding whether to do the whole floor.

With regards to cleaning the table surface Green Webrax is recommended ( see Thread in General Woodworking 'Rust Prevention and cleaning' Jan 2006--I do not recall a grade being mentioned, all I remember is that the person that used it was very pleased with the end result.

Cheers Con
 
Hi all

After talking to a chap called Mark who said he was the owner of Rutlands on Friday both parts needed turned up on Monday, seems the delivery people where at fault :)

Saws working a treat again although there dos'nt seem to be a way of setting the cross cut fence to an accurate 90 or any other angle for that matter, think I will have to put in a couple of stops, shouldnt be to much of a problem, I was thinking in terms of a flat bar front and back of the table with a 1 bolt/spring washer fitting to the table so it can be turned out of the way and an adjuster on the other end, anyone got any other ideas?

Con. Seems a lot of weight for an MDF floor, you might end up with tram lines

Allan
 
recky":3qrascma said:
Hi all
Saws working a treat again although there dos'nt seem to be a way of setting the cross cut fence to an accurate 90 or any other angle for that matter, think I will have to put in a couple of stops,
Allan

Allan,

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

I agree about the cross cut fence, the angle indicator is fairly useless.

My crude solution was to align it so that it's cutting square and then attach a small G clamp to the left hand side of the sliding table, up against the fence. This is handy because in order to rip anything I have to take the cross cut fence off and I can quickly position it back against the clamp.

I also wondered about scribing some lines into the table.

Cheers
Mike
 
Hi Mike

Yep seems to be running as snug as a bug.

I use the fence in both front and back positions so need something thats going to drop out of the way, will let you know when Iv sorted it

Have you worked out how to align the blade yet as theres nothing at all about it in the manual, not that mines not aligned but its just a matter of time isn't it

cheers

Allan
 
Hi All,

Firstly hi to everyone, I have already read a bucket load on here!

I bought one of these whilst on offer, as I really wanted one to complete my workshop (well, *ahem* garage) My brother did have a try to assemble it but was stumped by the weight issues, so it still awaits assembly and setup. I am interested to hear peoples thoughts on how much space it requires, as I wonder if things might be a tight squeeze in its current location, though I think I can mitigate this by the use of smaller boards to pass through it.

I will see how I get on, quite excited about getting it up and running, and hopefully the first project will pay for it in saved money!
 
amateur_chippy":2a2cdrh8 said:
Hi All,

Firstly hi to everyone, I have already read a bucket load on here!

I bought one of these whilst on offer, as I really wanted one to complete my workshop (well, *ahem* garage) My brother did have a try to assemble it but was stumped by the weight issues, so it still awaits assembly and setup. I am interested to hear peoples thoughts on how much space it requires, as I wonder if things might be a tight squeeze in its current location, though I think I can mitigate this by the use of smaller boards to pass through it.

I will see how I get on, quite excited about getting it up and running, and hopefully the first project will pay for it in saved money!

Hi,

If you read back through these posts you will see that I put mine together with the help of my 15 year old son and although it's fairly heavy, it really isn't as bad as people think. It's easier to move than my bandsaw anyway :wink:

As for space, mine is in a double garage and to be honest, I would put it anywhere smaller.

I've put it about a foot from one wall and built an outfeed table behind it which is about 6 feet long and 4 feet wide. Without the sliding table, this means it takes up about 10 feet by four feet of space. The sliding table and fence add to the width but they can be moved around and don't take up too much more space.

Cheers
Mike
 
Thanks for the welcome guys!

Well we popped it together - it didn't take long at all, and even though the instructions were not well written the exploded diagrams were easy to follow, and the installation hardware was okay. I made sure I threadlocked all the nuts (either that or nylocks for me I am afraid!) Anwyay it feels nice and solid and I only got to run one piece of work through it before calling it a night.

Anyone got recommendations on some decent blades to order for ripping, crosscutting, making dadoes (?sp)

I will follow scrits advice for setting up the sliding carriage this weekend

James
 

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