Floating shelf advice needed.

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The Gent

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Hi,

I am about to put up some up some floating shelves, I have bought a 40mm oak worktop and chopped it down the middle to get 300mm shelves.

There are the 3 shelves I am putting up, 3m / 1.6m / 0.8m. The good thing is that these are all going directly into brick. The large shelf at 3m is around 25kg if my maths are correct.

These will go in the kitchen and on top of these we are planning to put crockery and glass jars full of pasta etc etc. So these are not purely decond

I have been thinking about something like this, but I am not sure what the best option is.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/123097585640?c ... 3514341033

Has anyone installed something like this before or have any recommendations for me on how to do this.

Thanks a lot.

Kevin
 
I've looked into doing exactly this in the past. Although the boss has decided that she would rather have visible shelf brackets, the consensus was that if you have a brick wall then the most robust solution is to epoxy some steel studding directly into the wall.
 
I'm considering a floating shelf in an alcove in my Gentleman's Residence.
But I wouldn't dream of making them out of solid, mine will be torsion boxes, mounted on a studded back-plate.
The back plate will be bolted to the wall through oversized holes, so that I can adjust them for level, then the torsion box slid over the studs.
They will be strong and light.
 
Perfect opportunity to learn some arc welding, as you could get a welder for the same price
as those brackets. :D
Tom
 
Honestly don't waste your money on those brackets. Buy some lengths of m12 from Orbital Fastenings or similar and chem fix the studs in, 92-95 degrees to the floor. Make the holes as deep as you can and you'll have enough leverage to slightly bend the stud and perfect the levels.
 
joel4mo":2e4e7nng said:
Honestly don't waste your money on those brackets. Buy some lengths of m12 from Orbital Fastenings or similar and chem fix the studs in, 92-95 degrees to the floor. Make the holes as deep as you can and you'll have enough leverage to slightly bend the stud and perfect the levels.
That's a cracking tip. Thanks. =D>
 
phil.p":2i0ojcc4 said:
Yup. Resin and studs every time.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws ... hor/p74884 The gun will cost, but you'll probably use it again - it's still cheaper than buying brackets.

You can buy resin from screwfix that doesn't require a special gun and just uses a normal silicone gun

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-kem- ... 0wodP-sBzw

From personal recent experience the vinylester (water based - non smelly) resin sets well when used in quantity but not so well when not much is used, and will leave a gummy residue, Polyester (Styrene based) works better for small applications.
 
Think you can get resin in small capsules that you drop into the hole, then put the bolt/threaded bar in and break the capsule. No gun required, no tube of resin to just use half of before it goes off...

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
 

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