Fixing tongue and groove sheets to wall

[The Bear]

I'm talking this stuff to simulate tongue and groove boards
http://www.championtimber.com/sheet-mat ... fsc-mix-70
All the major supplier near me seem to only stock 9mm, so I guess thats what I'll use. It helps anyway as its going in quite a small wc. My question is how best to fix to the walls? They are newly plastered and pretty flat. Can I attach straight to wall or must I use batons? And what how would you attach? Presumably some sort of adhesive, grip fill, something else? And would you also mechanically fix, nails, screws etc?
I'm pretty sure there's a standard way of doing this, but I don't know what it is.
Thanks in advance for suggestions

Mark

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Dot and dab?

 

[MikeG.]

Presumably these aren't going to be the full height of the wall. They're usually just up to dado rail height. I do this in bathrooms as a great way of neatly hiding pipe runs, and run a narrow shelf along the top (always really useful in bathrooms). Obviously, in that situation they're battened out from the wall.

My point being that knowing what the detail at the top of the board is will determine the fixing method. If it is running up to the underside of a dado rail, then you'll be using a constructional adhesive directly to the wall. If it is topped by a narrow shelf, then you'll use battens.

Here's a tip: don't make any mistakes. The stuff costs an absolute fortune.

 

[Lons]

What Mike said.

Unless covering up pipes it would usually be grab adhesive straight to the wall, 9mm is sturdy enough if well glued.
I've only ever used this 3 times and at full height and finishing the top wasn't a problem as in all cases I was fitting a plastic ceiling and the edge trims covered the joins.

The last one for for a relative so rather than pay what seems an expensive sheet price for I bought full sheets of moisture resist from Jewsons, I think I paid about £12 or £13 + vat and just ran a router with a V cutter along rails to form the grooves and he primed and painted himself, the only bit I had to set up carefully was the edges to get the groove the same depth when butted together if that makes sense.

Not to my personal taste but the finished jobs did look good.

 

[The Bear]

Yes these are not full height they go to dado height. There's no pipe runs to box out and hide so straight on the wall it is then. Which is good to know is ok as this is quite a small WC so not losing any width is good. Many thanks.

Mark

 

[The Bear]

My next question is then how much gripfill/alternative. I'm thinking a horizontal line every 4 to 6 inches, then a few pins driven in until it goes off. Does that sound about right?

Mark

 

[Marineboy]

I think that’s overkill. I have done similar in my hall and stairs, though used standard 9 mm MDF which I routed to get the grooves. I put a line of adhesive top and bottom, a few squiggles in between, then fixed with a few pins which I drove home with a punch then filled.

 

[Lons]

I think that’s overkill. I have done similar in my hall and stairs, though used standard 9 mm MDF which I routed to get the grooves. I put a line of adhesive top and bottom, a few squiggles in between, then fixed with a few pins which I drove home with a punch then filled.

Probably is but I always use plenty, it's cheap and better than having to do it again if it does come loose. The adhesive is only as good as the substrate you're fixing to.

 

[Mick Brightmore]

Try this company, https://www.cleanclad.net, they sell a high grab flexible adhesive that allows for expansion and contraction. In my experience cheap adhesives set hard and do not allow for movement. Good luck !

 

[MikeJhn]

The most popular grab adhesive I have been told is Everbuild Pink Grip, just bought some, but have not used it yet, time will tell.