Fitting Howdens kitchen units to plasterboard and stud wall.

[fluffflinger]

Guys this is my business, not fitting but sales design and project management and trust me (and my fitters) there is no better or quicker method than the metal rail I suggested earlier, it guarantees at least one fixing into the stud and the others can be through the board using a good quality spring toggle style fixing.

Sorry but we don't have time for french cleats or chopping out plasterboard, plus both methods make redundant the built in adjusters and necessitate fixing through the back of the cabinet. Not sure my customers would like screws thru the back of their £30k German Kitchen into hidden battens.

Apologies to those I may offend but if a Howdens cabinet will sit on thee rail I linked to you would be well advised to use it, IMHO.

 

[busy builder]

Guys this is my business, not fitting but sales design and project management and trust me (and my fitters) there is no better or quicker method than the metal rail I suggested earlier, it guarantees at least one fixing into the stud and the others can be through the board using a good quality spring toggle style fixing.

Sorry but we don't have time for french cleats or chopping out plasterboard, plus both methods make redundant the built in adjusters and necessitate fixing through the back of the cabinet. Not sure my customers would like screws thru the back of their £30k German Kitchen into hidden battens.

Apologies to those I may offend but if a Howdens cabinet will sit on thee rail I linked to you would be well advised to use it, IMHO.

No it doesn't, the batten is 12mm therefore flush with plasterboard face and cabinet adjuster attaches to batten thereby adjustable through the cabinet as designed.

Fitting the rail is good, I will try that out next when I fit my next kitchen, but the cabinet sides will need chopping out as well to allow the rail to pass through each cabinet.

 

[Titch]

My kitchen uses this system been up years. Each cabinet back came with a curved piece removed from the top corner or each cabinet. When I extend and add to my kitchen ill stick with it. But I must say all my a bones are on external walls. So unsure of effectiveness on ops original question as to plasterboard.

 

[fluffflinger]

Busy Builder; The cabinets we buy either from our carcass manufacturer if we are putting together a component kitchen or our German Manufacturer all supply the rail in sizes that fit each cabinet. It's only if you buy it separately that it comes in long lengths. Easier for us as when the guys have a level line at the appropriate height they simply measure and mark where each rail sits to as to give the cabs a chance to move a few mm in each direction to get them flush. If you wish to use the rail as a continuous length then yes you'd need to notch out the gables on the cabinets.

Titch; On plasterboard walls you will always hit at least one stud and a single fixing through that will provide very solid support the other fixings help and also stabilise the rail. Remember most of the forces are in shear so even just fixing to plasterboard is more adequate if you use the correct fixings.

I have watched our guys put up a run of wall cabinets in literally minutes using this system. I really don't see the need to invent a system other than the one used by all quality kitchen manufacturers and installers. I have seen or heard of nothing that is quicker or more efficient.

 

[Graham Orm]

I've fitted hundreds of cabinets and when fitting a long run onto a stud wall I've always used the 'new stud' method I've shown at the top of this thread.....why oh why, oh why didn't I think of the plywood method?

That's how I'll be doing it from now on.