Long plywood kitchen cabinets

[COWS]

Does that work with overlay doors? I can see it wouldn't be a problem with inset hinges

It wouldn't make a difference. It's the mount plates that will go back to back. The only difference is that overlay doors, the plate would be closer to the front edge.

You should look into pre-finished plywood or veneered chipboard/MDF for the carcasses

Pre finish boards are fine. But I would steer clear of chipboard. MDF is better but Ply is king. If you were to build the whole unit with melamine surface, then the labour to lay all the laminate would be too much so would make sense to buy. For only shelf surfaces I would lay it myself. A lot of the pre finish melamines are wafer thin unless you spend £££.

Another option you could look at is using a company like Cutwrights for pre finish stuff. I used these a fair bit when I worked in hospitality build.

 

[WillyEckerslike]

It wouldn't make a difference. It's the mount plates that will go back to back. The only difference is that overlay doors, the plate would be closer to the front edge.

What about the doors meeting each other edge to edge? An overlay door has 2mm gap to the edge of the carcass which means for an 18mm carcass, 16mm is covered by the door. You couldn't then hang a door off the other face without the doors hitting each other.

 

[alexnharvey]

The current fashion is to have most units with drawers and pull outs rather than doors on the base cabinets and so we'll have either no or very few doors that are back to back.

 

[Sideways]

Practicalities: if you have a washing machine or dishwasher in your kitchen, or even the stop tap for the incoming water main, put your cabinets on plastic legs so that they aren't destroyed by a water leak.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

It wouldn't make a difference. It's the mount plates that will go back to back. The only difference is that overlay doors, the plate would be closer to the front edge.

Not correct. With all Euro hinge types the plate that fits on the carcass is in the same position. The hinge body is different in the 3 main types.

What about the doors meeting each other edge to edge? An overlay door has 2mm gap to the edge of the carcass which means for an 18mm carcass, 16mm is covered by the door. You couldn't then hang a door off the other face without the doors hitting each other.

That is not a problem if you use the correct hinge. There are 3 main types of Euro hinge for Euro cabinets ; the inset, the full overlay, and the half overlay. I assume that you don’t have much experience of Euro hinges. Within the main types there are different degrees that they open to, naturally you would not usually use a 170° degree hinge on back to back doors, a 107° would probably be the best choice

There are also variations available for face frames if you want

 

[johnnyb]

the method you describe is a bit impractical as most kitchens won't have 2400mm unbroken run. the only advantage I can think of is a small saving in ply. the dis advantages are numerous the main one being⁰ movement around. getting everything level and square. incorporating appliances. if I was to do it as suggested I would make and level plinths in advance a plop the unit on those. modular just means units of a sensible size so they can be worked on. tall units would end up like wardrobes with the same problems.

 

[johnnyb]

I like certain cupboard arrangements. I draw them out full size on a piece of mdf. I like units 530 deep and the back screwed on so I can take it off for spraying. I like cabs 790 tall with 80mm legs( instead of 150mm) this allows 2 shelves or an extra deep bottom drawer( it does mean it's difficult to adjust the back legs unless you use ones that can be adjusted through a hole in the cabinet.)
these are just decisions that are made and once made stuck with.
I like integrated appliances so have a method of doing those. but dislike integrated fridges and freezers as they rarely fit that well after a period of use.( love american / french doors).

 

[sometimewoodworker]

the method you describe is a bit impractical as most kitchens won't have 2400mm unbroken run.

Clearly @alexnharvey has that amount or he would not be considered it.
FWIW My kitchen has a little short of 5 metres, the 2 longer cabinets are 150mm and about 170mm

the dis advantages are numerous the main one being movement around. getting everything level and square

That maybe your conception. If you are getting things shipped to you that may be correct but as he is building them himself you are incorrect. The reason that you don’t find many/any suppliers with long cabinets is that the market for them is small so shorter ones that can be put together are the norm.

modular just means units of a sensible size so they can be worked on.

In a totally custom job that is irrelevant, as you design and build the cabinets to whatever length suits you.

 

[johnnyb]

what are the advantages of a long cabinet?

 

[WillyEckerslike]

Not correct. With all Euro hinge types the plate that fits on the carcass is in the same position. The hinge body is different in the 3 main types.

Not correct. The majority of inset hinges require that the plate that fits on the carcass is set back to accommodate the thickness of the door (which is of course variable) therefore 37mm plus the door thickness. I assume you don't have much experience of fitting these hinges.

 

[COWS]

What about the doors meeting each other edge to edge? An overlay door has 2mm gap to the edge of the carcass which means for an 18mm carcass, 16mm is covered by the door. You couldn't then hang a door off the other face without the doors hitting each other.

Half crank hinges.

 

[WillyEckerslike]

Half crank hinges.

Yes I've had that pointed out to me already thank you - albeit somewhat less tactfully.

 

[pe2dave]

A consideration. If (when?) your washing machine / dishwasher overflows, you'll be grateful not to have wood down to the floor? Those plastic legs serve a good purpose.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Not correct. The majority of inset hinges require that the plate that fits on the carcass is set back to accommodate the thickness of the door (which is of course variable) therefore 37mm plus the door thickness. I assume you don't have much experience of fitting these hinges.

Maybe I’ve only fitted a few hundred of them but almost none of the inset variations

 

[sometimewoodworker]

what are the advantages of a long cabinet?

Fewer uprights, easier to level, thinner uprights. To name just 3.

Of course if you are not making them on site, I did and I assume that @alexnharvey is also doing that

 

[johnnyb]

as long as you've considered all your options then crack on. Good luck.

 

[Mikey RR]

Hi everyone.

I'm in a similar boat, designing replacement kitchen cabinets. Going back to materials, I found out you can get exterior MDF now:

https://mdfdirect.co.uk/product/ext...Sexrl6B64TVdACdXSrTY-KVJQhdTPS18aAteAEALw_wcB
The page does say "As Medite Exterior complies with MDF H2 as defined by EN 622 Part 5, it is also suitable for environmentally sensitive interior applications," can anyone see any downsides? Other than the mess that cutting and routing MDF makes?

Cheers!
Mike

 

[COWS]

Hi everyone.

I'm in a similar boat, designing replacement kitchen cabinets. Going back to materials, I found out you can get exterior MDF now:

https://mdfdirect.co.uk/product/ext...Sexrl6B64TVdACdXSrTY-KVJQhdTPS18aAteAEALw_wcB
The page does say "As Medite Exterior complies with MDF H2 as defined by EN 622 Part 5, it is also suitable for environmentally sensitive interior applications," can anyone see any downsides? Other than the mess that cutting and routing MDF makes?

Cheers!
Mike

What you have there if I'm not mistaken is moisture resistant mdf. I find it odd that its advertised vas exterior grade as it will absorb water, albeit not as quickly as standard. You can buy Tricoya mdf that I believe you can use externally without issue. But the cost is eye watering.

Using moisture resistant for interior applications like kitchens, bathrooms and any cabinet work is fine. Use extraction as much as you can, even if it's a Henry. Seal and decorate it well though.

 

[Mikey RR]

What you have there if I'm not mistaken is moisture resistant mdf. I find it odd that its advertised vas exterior grade as it will absorb water, albeit not as quickly as standard. You can buy Tricoya mdf that I believe you can use externally without issue. But the cost is eye watering.

Using moisture resistant for interior applications like kitchens, bathrooms and any cabinet work is fine. Use extraction as much as you can, even if it's a Henry. Seal and decorate it well though.

Thanks @COWS, I had my eye on a Henry, until I noticed Trend now do a hoover with a much finer filter. My routers are Trends and I'm quite happy with their stuff, so might pull the trigger in the January sales.

I went a bit nuts on Black Friday, I got myself the Makita track saw and a Bosch tablesaw. I've never done anything at this scale before, my hand tool centric approach wouldn't scale up to a full kitchen! (And any excuse to buy new toys.)

 

[COWS]

Thanks @COWS, I had my eye on a Henry, until I noticed Trend now do a hoover with a much finer filter. My routers are Trends and I'm quite happy with their stuff, so might pull the trigger in the January sales.

I went a bit nuts on Black Friday, I got myself the Makita track saw and a Bosch tablesaw. I've never done anything at this scale before, my hand tool centric approach wouldn't scale up to a full kitchen! (And any excuse to buy new toys.)

Trend extractors are great. You won't be disappointed with one of these. I had a couple years ago. I didn't much like the Dewalt I had for a while, but they may have improved in 15 years. I'm on Festool ones atm but acctually prefer my 2010 midi to the M class one I bought this year.

Enjoy your new tools friend, and take care when using them.