First gazebo project, frame wobble

[JonCamo]

Yes, but if you screw ply on it, it will stiffen it considerably.

Thanks Adam

 

[JonCamo]

I'd get a good solid brace of wood, and two nice heavy clamps, and temporarily put in diagonally struts. Place a strut, check for wobble, move strut, check for wobble etc etc.

I think jameshow's idea of extra bracing at the back makes a lot of sense, wouldn't look out of place and can do no harm (aside from to your wallet)

also as adam.w says, I cant see that additional rafters are going to stop the wobble, it is on a different plane to the wobble from what I've understood

Thanks

Beginners question but adding braces without dismantling? Presumaby I would have to adjust one tenon on the brace to be small enough to wiggle it into place and cut the mortices in situ? Sounds tricky

 

[TheUnicorn]

Thanks

Beginners question but adding braces without dismantling? Presumaby I would have to adjust one tenon on the brace to be small enough to wiggle it into place and cut the mortices in situ? Sounds tricky

no, I think to add braces into the build (in keeping with the way you've built it) you would need to dismantle to some degree. The less desirable alternative would be to screw or bolt cross braces in place of course

 

[Jameshow]

Could you redrill the draw bar holes slightly deeper so they close the joints better not easy I know.

I don't think ply of the roof or the roof timbers will add stiffness to the posts, only ply to the walls would do that but you won't want to do that tbh.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I don't think ply of the roof or the roof timbers will add stiffness to the posts, only ply to the walls would do that but you won't want to do that tbh.

I agree, it's like a wobbly table or a racking workbench - the top can be stiff and stable, but the legs can still move

 

[JonCamo]

I'd get a good solid brace of wood, and two nice heavy clamps, and temporarily put in diagonally struts. Place a strut, check for wobble, move strut, check for wobble etc etc.

I think jameshow's idea of extra bracing at the back makes a lot of sense, wouldn't look out of place and can do no harm (aside from to your wallet)

also as adam.w says, I cant see that additional rafters are going to stop the wobble, it is on a different plane to the wobble from what I've understood

So to create the pitch for the roof the rafters in my original plan would have sat on top of the cutrent structure you can see i.e. running in a left wall to lawn direction seated onto lengths of wood that are screwed onto the four highest points at the corners of the current structure, if that makes sense, so as you say on a plane above the beams....

 

[JonCamo]

no, I think to add braces into the build (in keeping with the way you've built it) you would need to dismantle to some degree. The less desirable alternative would be to screw or bolt cross braces in place of course

Ok. Thanks

 

[paullap]

Very nice job, well done, Where did you source the Oak from?. I want to build an oak porch.


Paul

 

[Adam W.]

Ah wobbly posts, not the frame deforming at the roof timbers, is that what the problem is or is the front wracking and the rear fixed?

As far as I can see, there are already braces and the rear posts are bolted to the brick wall. So I would increase the size of the brackets at the wall and fix the third post to the other wall.

I asked about draw boring, which should have ensured that the braces stiffened the frame properly, unless the braces can move about in their fixed position and aren't doing the job they are supposed to do.

 

[JonCamo]

Very nice job, well done, Where did you source the Oak from?. I want to build an oak porch.


Paul

Thanks Paul. From South East oak sawmill

 

[JonCamo]

Ah wobbly posts, not the frame deforming at the roof timbers, is that what the problem is or is the front wracking and the rear fixed?

As far as I can see, there are already braces and the rear posts are bolted to the brick wall. So I would increase the size of the brackets at the wall and fix the third post to the other wall.

I asked about draw boring, which should have ensured that the braces stiffened the frame properly, unless the braces can move about in their fixed position and aren't doing the job they are supposed to do.

Hi Adam

I am going to check exactly where the movement comes from.
The rear posts were only fixed to wall with flimsy brackets for safety while I had them up at the start so they do nothing at all and are due to be removed.
If I secure the posts to the wall more robustly is there a risk of wall collapse if I have a roof on the structure and wind shear transmits excess force to the wall - I have no idea whether this would be a faesible risk or not (surgeon not engineer!)

Regards

Jon

 

[Adam W.]

Bolt it to both walls, it will be fine............... if it's fixed firmly to the ground, that is.

 

[JonCamo]

Bolt it to both walls, it will be fine............... if it's fixed firmly to the ground, that is.

The posts just rest loosely on pins so there could be some movement there, hence why I asked about post shoes/brackets and whether I should fit those? Will check where the movement comes from when I can get a friend do the wobbling and I can check round

 

[Adam W.]

Oh! That's why it wobbles.

You need to bolt it down, other than that it looks lovely.

 

[MikeJhn]

Looks very good for a first effort.

It Looks as though you could bolt at least three of the posts to the wall, if not four, drill through the post, then into the wall and resin anchor full length threaded studs into the hole formed in the wall, important to blow the dust out of the hole, Stainless Steel studs washers and nuts, that would eliminate all the wobble, shear and uplift to the structure would only happen if the roof and sides where covered in.

 

[TheUnicorn]

The posts just rest loosely on pins so there could be some movement there, hence why I asked about post shoes/brackets and whether I should fit those?

so does that mean that, apart from the weight of the structure, there would be nothing stopping the posts lifting off their fixings?

 

[JonCamo]

Oh! That's why it wobbles.

You need to bolt it down, other than that it looks lovely.

Just been outside and when I wobble the post with the two braces that supports the diagonal beam, the whole structure wobbles and I can see a little water moving at the post bases so to me that implies that the upper part is secure and it is the posts that need fixing down fully, as you said.

Are galvanised brackets ok or do they need to be a particular grade of stainless steel to stop oak corroding the metal?
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

 

[JonCamo]

so does that mean that, apart from the weight of the structure, there would be nothing stopping the posts lifting off their fixings?

Currently yes

 

[JonCamo]

Looks very good for a first effort.

It Looks as though you could bolt at least three of the posts to the wall, if not four, drill through the post, then into the wall and resin anchor full length threaded studs into the hole formed in the wall, important to blow the dust out of the hole, Stainless Steel studs washers and nuts, that would eliminate all the wobble, shear and uplift to the structure would only happen if the roof and sides where covered in.

Thanks Mike

There will be a gap all round between beams and roof so guessing that would reduce uplift considerably?

 

[Adam W.]

Just been outside and when I wobble the post with the two braces that supports the diagonal beam, the whole structure wobbles and I can see a little water moving at the post bases so to me that implies that the upper part is secure and it is the posts that need fixing down fully, as you said.

Are galvanised brackets ok or do they need to be a particular grade of stainless steel to stop oak corroding the metal?
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

Galvanised will work and grease the threads of the coach screws before you screw them in. You can also use stainless if you wish.