Finish for spalted beech

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rkchapman

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I finally got around to turning some beech that's been sitting around in my shed for the last couple of years, spalting nicely (there are some advantages to having a damp workshop...)

110527468.jpg


I'm quite pleased with the way it turned out, but I'm wondering what the would be the best finish to use to keep it looking nice...

Anyone have any experiences (good or bad) with finishes for this sort of piece?
 
Hi Richard,

My preferred treatment is to use cellulose sanding sealer, several aplications cut back between layers followed by a wax finish. I find oil darkens the wood too much for my taste.

If it is a display piece I use carnauba wax though I am experimenting with carnauba and microcrystalline wax blends.

Hope this helps,

Mike C
 
I use diluted sealer (50%) which is sanded off at thend and then just use wax. George (Cornucopia) swears by lemon oil and if his work is anything to go by it's good stuff for a silky or matt finish. Don't bother with friction polish (IMHO)

Pete
 
If this is your first move into the spalted world Richard, I would go along with using cellulose sanding sealer (diluted to penetrate well and harden the surface) and finish off with a soft wax blend (Chestnuts Woodwax22 for instance) Hard wax friction sticks could mark the soft spalted surface and using melamine or similar finish to obtain a gloss surface is a task that needs some experimentation to get the process right.
 
I really dislike a wax finish on light coloured woods, i prefer to use lemon oil as a base then a few coats of organoil or chestnust finishing oil- another alternative is spray on acrylic matt/satin finish- if done correctly you cannot tell there is a finish on and the wood stays very light in colour.
 
George with the spray lacquer, would you put anything under it? Like LO or CSS?
 
wizer":2hfzckyz said:
George with the spray lacquer, would you put anything under it? Like LO or CSS?

no just spray- the awkward bit with the spray finish is the correct spraying enviroment and getting just the right amount on the surface.
 
Cheers I might try it on those pieces you gave me. If I can bare to look at what I've done to them ;)
 
Thanks everyone - I think I'll get a selection of the above-mentioned finishes and try a few of them. I have about 6 cu ft of beech so plenty of scope for trial and error. I'll let you know how I get on.

The spalted wood is not at all soft - like the rest of the beech it's very hard.
 
I would agree with sanding sealer, at least two coats 50/50 cut back with 600 or 800 grade between each, then lightly burnished with a handful of shavings - keeps the wood nice and white and emphasises the contrast with the spalting, gives a lovely satin sheen. Example below

I also agree with Corny - I don't like wax or polish on beech.

3269154852_f0775d6f8b_m.jpg


PeteII
 
Nice finish there Pete, looking good!!

I'm an oil fan myself. I find the slight darkening of the wood usually helps to pop the grain and bring out the figure. If you just accept it's gonna get darker then you won't be disappointed:

P2130049.JPG


(sorry, not the best picture in the world :oops: )

Cheers,

Richard
 
I just use liberon paste wax (as i do on 99% of my work) - ive never got on with sanding sealer it always seperates in the bottle then refuses to remix.
 
big soft moose":1x01woqc said:
I just use liberon paste wax (as i do on 99% of my work) - ive never got on with sanding sealer it always seperates in the bottle then refuses to remix.

I have the same problem with sanding sealer. I also find it darkens the wood ever so slightly. Am interested in the lemon oil, though have never come across it.
 
Hi Guys

With reference to the comments about sanding sealers, could you clarify for me (by pm if you don't want to name names in open forum) which type of sanding sealer, who makes it and if you're diluting it or doing anything else to it?
Whilst the solids part of the sealer will invariably sink to the bottom of the container, it should always mix back in with a minimum amount of effort.
 
Terry are you saying that (your) SS should not be diluted?
 
Uh-oh, that's a can of worms I didn't mean to open.

Fundamentally yes, I'm saying our Sanding Sealers should not be diluted. They are all supplied ready for use and will do the job straight out of the can.
(Acrylics should only be diluted to a maximum of 5% and there is really no ponit in diluting the Shellac one, but I'm assuming we're mainly talking about the Cellulose version here.)

It's a commonly held belief that the sealer works better when diluted 50/50 although no-one has ever been able to explain why this should be.
The usual reason is that it allows the sealer to soak in deeper, which of course it does. Sadly, this isn't what you want it to do. The sealer should dry on the surface to seal the wood. Otherwise it's like thinning an emulsiion paint down before use; all of the paint sinks into the substrate and you can't see it, so why bother using it?
Another comment is that thinning it helps it adhere to the wood better; the sealer is designed to stick to the wood, it doesn't need any extra help thank you.

Now that's not to say that there aren't occasions when it is preferable to thin the sealer. Working on spalted timber is one of them, thinning 50/50 allows the sealer to soak in and give the timber extra stability. It's not really sealing it for finishing though.
Working on larger areas can be problematical too with neat sealer, as it can be awkward to get an even coating before it dries; a thinner material will flow out better. In these circumstances we'd suggest thinning 10-20% for best results. This will make it easier to apply but will still allow the sealer to do its job.

You should only need one coat of sealer except in exceptional circumstances. Applying three coats of thinned sealer is no better than applying one (thin) coat.

I personally see no need to habitually thin the sealer 50/50 and this practice will lead to the solids dropping out of solution and generally they will not mix back in.
 
I dont dilute mine, but im a noob and dont know any better.
 
I've heard both sides of the story. I'm lazy so I can't see me diluting it. To be honest I'm not sure I'm all that keen on it as a finish. I'm going to try LO and Lacquer soon.

Thanks for the explanation Terry. I don't believe it's a can of worms at all. Assuming you're commenting on your own product then I just take it as advice from the manufacturer. It all sounds like common sense to me. As someone who's just getting into turning, I haven't heard this 'discussion' (not argument ;) ) before.
 

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