Finally, a project.

[knappers]

After spending most of my limited workshop time so far busy making a bench, various jigs, machine cabinets, etc., I have finally got around to making a piece of furniture.. and from real wood too...
It's a stool for the bedroom. I have been promising the wife one for ages.
It's made from some beech blanks I picked up from Yandles last year, and some more beech I picked up from woodturner Richard.
Here is a quick photo I took of the frame test semi-assembled.
Comments and advice on how best to sand / finish would be good, thanks.

Si.

 

[spannermonkey]

I have found emery to be a great abrasive, since picking one up by mistake whilst sanding a spindle in my lathe.

 

[defsdoor]

I made something like that at school. I still have it nearly 30 years later. Mine had mortice and tenon joints though. Coincidentally i fixed a split in it just the other day. Should be good for another 30 years now.

Made me feel very old.

 

[Russ]

Really depends on quality of sander. A small piece like this could easily be finished by hand!

Are those loose tenons?

Russ

 

[Karl]

Nice work Si. Bet the domino made quick work - I could do with one myself.

I'd just sand by hand - especially on the corners to remove the arris.

What's going on the top?

Cheers

Karl

 

[knappers]

Yes, the domino is excellent.
Top will be some 18mm mdf, with some foam on top, covered with whatever SWMBO dictates.

Si.

 

[softtop]

defsdoor - would you believe it I made one with M&Ts at school about 30 years ago too! Must have been all the rage then!

My parents still have it and use it. Originally it had a thin ply top which broke and I replaced it but otherwise going strong. I remember our old WW teacher - always going on about glasspaper and sanding it until it was smooth as a baby's bum... how on earth he kept a class of kids safe all wielding chisels etc. I don't know.

 

[knappers]

So, having spent some time sanding up, should I finish (hard wax oil) then assemble, or assemble then finish?

Si.

 

[Chems]

There's no real advantage to doing such a simple object before gluing up except that if you get squeeze out it won't adhere to the waxed surface. With the dominos you should just paint them and put a small amount in the hole and you shouldn't get any squeeze out, if you do you've put to much in. You often dink and abrade things when your clamping them up. If the item is unfinished its no worries to clean it up but if you've already waxed it its going to make it more difficult.

If it was something that was going to be really difficult to get to when its assembled then its a good idea to do it before.

 

[knappers]

I'm struggling a bit with the hard wax oil. I have put a couple of coats on with a brush, with 500 grit between coats, but it's looking quite "brush marky", and I am not really happy at all.
I have knocked it back again with another sand with 500 grit, but don't know what I can do to rescue it. Should I try applying with wire wool or what?

Si.

 

[Chems]

Is it the chestnut hard wax oil? I used that on my tables and it was lovely stuff. Don't use a brush though (I know the tins says you can) just wipe it on and buff it in with the same cloth. You don't sand a wax oil between coats either.

 

[devonwoody]

Very nice and useful I should think. :wink:

 

[knappers]

Thanks Chems. Yes, Chestnut. Now it looks a mess, am I better of trying to sand back to bare and start again, or do you think it will cover okay?

Si

 

[Chems]

It probably just looks a bit messy because you've rubbed dust into the finish. Before you try sanding it off see if you can buff the marks out. Any more sanding is probably only going to make it worst and you're unlikely to be able to remove it all because the oil and wax penetrates quiet deeply.

 

[knappers]

Oh god, I have sanded it quite hard trying to flatten it. I hope this is salvageable...

Si

 

[Karl]

Si - have you got a card scraper? If not, use a sharpened plane blade (held in the same manner as you could a card scraper), and try scraping it off instead.

I apply this stuff by rag, tend to leave it on for about 15/20 mins, then wipe the excess off with a clean rag. Leave for 24 hours then apply another coat.

HTH.

Cheers

Karl

 

[knappers]

Okay, I think we have a result... The base is rescued, but still needs another coat of oil.
I got the top upholstered tonight, just need to find something to finish the underneath of the top to tidy it up and to attach it to the base. SWMBO seems to be a satisfied customer.

Si.

 

[Benchwayze]

Yah don't need a Domino folks. If you don't want to cut 'real' M&ts, then use a router and make slip tenons, (Which I think are stronger anyway.) Why? --- The weakest part of a M&T is the root of the tenon and there's no root to a slip-tenon. Yes I know the cheeks of the mortice are weak, but only when you work with those delicate parts.


No, I don't need a Domino. But, I am saving up for one, because I 'want' one! :mrgreen:

I haven't shown your stool to SWIMBO Knappers. She might put in an order! Nice job. Well done.

John

 

[Chems]

Thats lovely, I'd pay good money for something of that quality!

 

[knappers]

Thanks Chems, I really appreciate that, and thanks for all your advice, too.

I have ordered some upholsterers backing cloth to finish the underside, and just need to make some buttons from some beech to mount the top. I have routed some grooves into the upper sides of the rails to accept the buttons.

I have to say, it's very comfortable. I have made it slightly bigger than many stools on the market seem to be, as we are both quite tall and of "ample posterior".

Si.