Festool Plug-It connector confusion
- Thread starter fleyh
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pgrbff
Established Member
I may be wrong but even though it says no return UK consumer law says that you can return it within a certain period. Iwould have thought if it hasn't been described correctly this would be the case anyway.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It stated that it was a 110v lead on the ebay listing upthread.
We are on the second page of this thread, I have not seen a single attempt at answering to my original questions and do not have much hope, but will try one more time anyway:
My original questions were:
1. How many different Plug-It connectors are there?
2. Has anyone been able to successfully convert one to another without risking damage to an expensive tool?
- I am only interested in making the cable compatible with my DF500 without risking damage to the tool. No other (more power hungry) tools are planned.
To be clear - I am not looking for advice to return or re-sell the cable or to modify the tool to match the cable.
Don't mind hearing people bragging about how many Festool cables they own if they are willing to send me one for the price of a pint and postage ;-)
My original questions were:
1. How many different Plug-It connectors are there?
2. Has anyone been able to successfully convert one to another without risking damage to an expensive tool?
- I am only interested in making the cable compatible with my DF500 without risking damage to the tool. No other (more power hungry) tools are planned.
To be clear - I am not looking for advice to return or re-sell the cable or to modify the tool to match the cable.
Don't mind hearing people bragging about how many Festool cables they own if they are willing to send me one for the price of a pint and postage ;-)
You might be looking for someone to validate what you are intending but my reading of the thread is no you should not be modifying the plug. There have been several recommendations of how to replace it but most are telling you to do the right thing and get the right cable. That is obviously not want you want to hear.
I have seen three types of Festool cable connectors, and two of the three are specifically for 110V machines. All of my Euro corded Festool machines with removable cables share the same standard connector. Only the OF2200 doesn't because the cord is permanently attached to the machine.
One of the remaining two variants is for the 110V version of the TS 75. It looks similar to the standard connector, but the bump in the middle is reversed so the standard cable will not plug into it. The other variant is like yours, which is intended for the UK 110V market.
I don't know anyone who has tried to convert a cable since the correct cable is easy to buy in different lengths. Festool used to sell the cable connectors and machine pigtail connectors, but these are no longer available.
stuart little
Established Member
I did a similar conversion on some of my tools using Hylec m/f plug-in connectors as close as poss to tool. I've not had any problem with 'snagging', with extractor hoses - yes! Not having a cable wrapped around it makes for much easier storage. I got my connectors from CPC, but now Screwfix sells them.
TomGW
Established Member
If selling the 110v cable isn’t a viable option you have nothing to lose by trying to modify the plug on the end. If you succeed in making it fit into your 240v tool (shouldn’t be too difficult) it will still fit into a 110v, unless you infill one of the cut out sections. Not an issue if you have no 110v Festool.
It looks like it simply needs some of the moulded plastic trimmed off and, preferably one of the ‘V’ cut outs infilled by gluing something in.
There’s really no danger of damaging your tool unless you try forcing the plug before it’s properly trimmed to fit.
It looks like it simply needs some of the moulded plastic trimmed off and, preferably one of the ‘V’ cut outs infilled by gluing something in.
There’s really no danger of damaging your tool unless you try forcing the plug before it’s properly trimmed to fit.
It won’t fit a 110v machine because he is going to cut the other end off to fit a 13 amp plug
Do be careful the poles end up the correct way round once the cable is modified as it will certainly not have a warranty
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TomGW
Established Member
If modified to fit into the female/socket of the 240v tool it will still fit into the socket of a 110v tool and could, inadvertently, feed 240v. That’s why it would be advisable to fill in one of the cut out ‘V’ sections to ensure that won’t happen.It won’t fit a 110v machine because he is going to cut the other end off to fit a 13 amp plug
Have you actually stoped and thought about why they are different ! If you have ever worked with interconnects you would realise that a lot of effort goes into making sure that the right connector for an application will only fit the right mating half to prevent damage to equipment by the use of keying, which is why your plug and socket do not fit as it prevents someone putting 230 volts into a 110 volt tool.
Doug71
Established Member
I wouldn't be messing with it, just go and buy the correct lead.
As good as the plug it leads are they are not without their problems, over time they can become slightly loose which can cause arcing damaging both the plug on the lead and the socket on the tool, you then have to replace both. It was mainly on sanders, Festool updated the plug it a few years ago to try and solve the problem, you could buy hardwire kits for the sanders which shows it was an issue. The other problem it caused was once the plug or tool were damaged you could transfer the issue to other tools and leads when you swapped them around.
I had to replace the socket on my RO150, it wasn't running properly and I presumed it was the brushes but found the socket on the back of the tool had melted a bit.
What I'm trying to say is when you have altered the plug if it isn't a perfect fit in the socket and there is some movement it might end up being more expensive and hassle than just buying the correct lead in the first place.
As good as the plug it leads are they are not without their problems, over time they can become slightly loose which can cause arcing damaging both the plug on the lead and the socket on the tool, you then have to replace both. It was mainly on sanders, Festool updated the plug it a few years ago to try and solve the problem, you could buy hardwire kits for the sanders which shows it was an issue. The other problem it caused was once the plug or tool were damaged you could transfer the issue to other tools and leads when you swapped them around.
I had to replace the socket on my RO150, it wasn't running properly and I presumed it was the brushes but found the socket on the back of the tool had melted a bit.
What I'm trying to say is when you have altered the plug if it isn't a perfect fit in the socket and there is some movement it might end up being more expensive and hassle than just buying the correct lead in the first place.
Electrically, the greater hazard would be to have a "normal" 240V plug-it cord able to mate with a 110V tool. That would fry it, not just make it run slow.
So the design of the plug and socket "ought" to make that impossible.
Although we all call it the "plug", the plug-it fitting on the end of the cord needs to be fully shrouded so that you can't put your finger in and touch live pins. Usually this means that it's actually a trailing "socket" and the male pins are on the tool.
I can't check because I sold my Festool tracksaw and can no longer go and look, but the reason for what may look like a pedantic post is just to suggest you pause and think about what the connectors are trying to achieve in case there is more to this than just getting out a stanley knife and shaving off some excess plastic.
Logically, a 110V cord into 240V tool isn't something Festool ought to worry about too much, but there definitely ought to be something in the designs to prevent the 240V cord going into a 110V tool.
As an aside:
"We are on the second page of this thread, I have not seen a single attempt at answering to my original questions and do not have much hope, but will try one more time anyway:"
When this happens, it can be a hint that you're proposing to do something that most people consider unwise, or worse. It's all credit to the membership and responders here that they offer their best advice and don't just get out the beer and popcorn while encouraging you from the trenches.
So the design of the plug and socket "ought" to make that impossible.
Although we all call it the "plug", the plug-it fitting on the end of the cord needs to be fully shrouded so that you can't put your finger in and touch live pins. Usually this means that it's actually a trailing "socket" and the male pins are on the tool.
I can't check because I sold my Festool tracksaw and can no longer go and look, but the reason for what may look like a pedantic post is just to suggest you pause and think about what the connectors are trying to achieve in case there is more to this than just getting out a stanley knife and shaving off some excess plastic.
Logically, a 110V cord into 240V tool isn't something Festool ought to worry about too much, but there definitely ought to be something in the designs to prevent the 240V cord going into a 110V tool.
As an aside:
"We are on the second page of this thread, I have not seen a single attempt at answering to my original questions and do not have much hope, but will try one more time anyway:"
When this happens, it can be a hint that you're proposing to do something that most people consider unwise, or worse. It's all credit to the membership and responders here that they offer their best advice and don't just get out the beer and popcorn while encouraging you from the trenches.
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HOJ
Established Member
It would, if I had thought about that at the right moment. Thank you for the suggestion.
I am not messing with anything. The point of my thread was to understand why there are different connectors with the same name (Plug-It), how many such types exist and if one is convertible to another.
If I was being pedantic, the shilling (before it was withdrawn) had a purchasing power of approximately £0.70 in today's currency. I bought my 110V cable for £15, which is around half its usual price of £30. So in a way, I was trying to save approximately 21 shillings.
Thanks to @MikeK I now know that there are 3 types, 2 of which are 110V and only 1 is 240V, which means I can buy any 240V lead and it should fit.
Thanks to @Doug71 I now understand that even if I never use the modified lead with incorrect voltage there is still a good chance of several unwanted things happening.
Thank you to those who addressed my original questions. Your responses are much appreciated.
My questions have been answered.
Consider this thread closed.
Just to be clear, since I like to choose my words carefully, these are the three I know of. There might be more, and if so, I have never seen them.
I see. Thank you for the clarification. Looks like my only choice (if I was to buy another lead in the future) is to buy with "return allowed" option. Will keep that in mind.
TomGW
Established Member
Which is exactly why I suggested that he should fill in the appropriate’V’ section that prevents this happening. Regardless of the fact that he doesn’t have any 110v Festool.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Or maybe to buy the correct on in the first place?
