doctor Bob
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They don't handle being dropped very well.
Oh dear Bob! Was that after throwing it at your new apprentice? :lol: Got to admit it does tend to destroy the precision a bit. :lol:doctor Bob":g2nejqxj said:They don't handle being dropped very well.
mailee":2tgsr9e7 said:As mine was second hand I didn't get the small protectors for the rods. I used some plastic electrical conduit which worked fine. :wink:
woodchip":uc9hsfvq said:1) calibrate it (watch the video mentioned above)
2) always, always use a vacuum
3) get into a routine, I do this:
A) check the depth is what I want
B) check the fence is at the height I want
C) check the width switch is on the setting I want
4) I usually do one side of the joint spot on, and on the other side I make two cuts, one half a mil over the line, then one half a mil under the line, this then gives 1mm of wiggle to get the pieces perfectly aligned. I only use the tight setting, but haven't done any panels yet
Henning":1tlsj0en said:woodchip":1tlsj0en said:1) calibrate it (watch the video mentioned above)
2) always, always use a vacuum
3) get into a routine, I do this:
A) check the depth is what I want
B) check the fence is at the height I want
C) check the width switch is on the setting I want
4) I usually do one side of the joint spot on, and on the other side I make two cuts, one half a mil over the line, then one half a mil under the line, this then gives 1mm of wiggle to get the pieces perfectly aligned. I only use the tight setting, but haven't done any panels yet
I would second all of the above, but would like to add:
D) Check that the cutter installed is the one you want. DAMHIKT
davin":1tlsj0en said:D) Check that the cutter installed is the one you want. DAMHIKT
Yes I agree with that.
You might also want to check the depth of cut after changing cutters, otherwise you have to glue little bits of wood into the hole that appears on the other side and hope it doesn't show !
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