chipp71970":3ogm7vzk said:
I would check to see if you can get a Makita rail as I have the Makita 5703RK and I am sure they make a rail for it.
If you need the rail to work with your router also then you might be better with the one you have suggested.
The Makita with the rail system is the new (and expensive)
SP6000K1 which is designed specifically for use with a rail, presumably hence the fancy ally base plate. The rail system is new and I'm told it doesn't work with any other Makita saws at present (looking at the
5700RK it appears to have a different base plate).
Personally I'm dubious for the need or advantages in using a router (or for that matter a jig saw) in conjunction with a rail and I'd be interested to know why there is any perceived advantage in doing so and for what tasks. Could someone please tell me (I'm not looking for an argument, here, but I'm really curious)? I did buy an adaptor for my smaller Bosch router a number of years back. It has never been used!
I still own a Bosch guide rail and saw and I've used the Festool system on quite a number of occasions as well as having used the (now defunct) Elu/deWalt system a few years back, so at least I can compare them. IMHO there is no fundamental difference in quality, accuracy or straightness between the three rail systems. In fact I doubt that there is any major difference in quality or accuracy between the different rail manufacturers, the difference is in the quality of the
portable circular saw which runs on the rail, hence my comments about the Bosch plunge saw I have which I feel suffers from accuracy problems due to rigidity and robustness problems in the steel base plate.
The only other significant differences in the saws are the ease of depth adjustment - I know this to be really easy on the Festools, less so on Bosch products - and the availability or otherwise of a packing piece or anti-splinter shoe to fit to the outboard of the the blade. This device (a piece of hard plastic) in conjunction with the rubber edge strip of the guide rail (a feature common to Festool, Bosch, Elu/DW and Mafell rails) forms in effect a zero clearance insert for the blade to allow relatively chip-free straight cutting of MFC/MF-MDF, veneered MDF, etc. Bosch don't offer such an accessory, can anyone with a Mafell say what they do, and would anyone (other than Dino :lol: ) care to comment on how the EZ-Smart anti-chip inserts compare? This (Festool) plastic packer needs to be replaced each time the blade is changed or sharpened so it might be an expensive addition to the running costs.
Whilst on the issue of quality, has anyone else experienced problems with well-use Festools where the two friction (?) adjuster knobs lock themselves onto the rail, thus locking the saw in the middle of the cut. I've experienced this with two saws (ATF55s) to date and I know of one other person who's got a similar problem with his saw. Do other systems ever suffer from this problem (I know that the Bosch doesn't because it uses a more positively locked adjuster)
I still have an old and superbly accurate Elu MH265 circular saw (190mm blade / 65mm depth of cut) and rail adaptor plate, alright so it's not a plunger, but in reality for most cuts (e.g. crosscutting worktops or trimming doors to size) that matters little, so maybe I should be thinking EZ Smart after all? :shock: :?
A question for EZ-Smart users: How much depth of cut do you lose by adding a rail and saw baseplate adaptor, please?
Scrit