The door above my weather bar has started to lift the decorative Mahogany veneer just above the bar, I feel my only choice is too extend the weather bar upwards with a pice of Mahogany, any suggestions of an alternative solution?
Exterior door weather bar.
- Thread starter MikeJhn
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johnnyb
Established Member
that doors had it fella. how companies get away with selling these in the uk ill never know. no coating can stop them peeling. I refuse to fit them unless there inside.
Unfortunately I agree - time to replace it 
It's maybe just pining for the fjords.
johnnyb
Established Member
pining for the fjords...its shuffled off to meet the choir of the blooming invisible.
I've seen interior doors ( not in any houses I've ever owned, solid wood doors only chez nous ) where the core is some kind of honeycomb cardboard.
We need two external doors replacing ( around 100 years old pine , now warped to ...gery , and no longer reparable )..Joinery companies want at least €2000.oo each ( opening windows in both doors and they are oversize ).I'm going to be making them.SWMBO rightly didn't think paying over €4K for doors was a good idea.Instantly saw the purchase of a plunge saw and a sliding mitre saw as being a very good investment, especially as they can be used to do other things .She wants a Swiss Chalet type house interior with lots of carving.Including the kitchen even though it is me who cooks.
I'm OK with that.
A door company sent us a catalogue recently, very expensive ..apparently all mystery cores with facings in hardwoods, standard size openings only ..total carp.
We need two external doors replacing ( around 100 years old pine , now warped to ...gery , and no longer reparable )..Joinery companies want at least €2000.oo each ( opening windows in both doors and they are oversize ).I'm going to be making them.SWMBO rightly didn't think paying over €4K for doors was a good idea.Instantly saw the purchase of a plunge saw and a sliding mitre saw as being a very good investment, especially as they can be used to do other things .She wants a Swiss Chalet type house interior with lots of carving.Including the kitchen even though it is me who cooks.
I'm OK with that.
A door company sent us a catalogue recently, very expensive ..apparently all mystery cores with facings in hardwoods, standard size openings only ..total carp.
Doug71
Established Member
As said they are all rubbish. They often make a big point of talking about things like "engineered core for added strength and stability" and "A-grade Oak veneer" but it all means nothing when the veneer starts lifting after a couple of years.
Some friends wanted an Oak veneered stable door fitting, I could tell they were a bit upset when I wouldn't do it and advised against it, they got somebody else to do the job. About 2 years later they came to ask why the veneer was lifting on the door
Some friends wanted an Oak veneered stable door fitting, I could tell they were a bit upset when I wouldn't do it and advised against it, they got somebody else to do the job. About 2 years later they came to ask why the veneer was lifting on the door
johnnyb
Established Member
oddly solid wood doors are very often much lighter than veneered doors.
Agent_zed
Established Member
I'd probably just wait for it to dry and glue it back on. Might need a bit of trimming as it has expanded the veneers obviously. Whack a coat of stain/varnish on and hope it lasts a few more years.
I bought a bi-fold door recently and pretty much all the wooden ones are veneered (although solid wood core). They have 10yr warranties but if you read the small print there is a £250 call out fee to inspect any warranty claim, where no doubt they will say it is due to improper maintainance and you'll be another £250 down. Thankfully mine will be mostly covered in the near future when i do an extension porch thing.
I bought a bi-fold door recently and pretty much all the wooden ones are veneered (although solid wood core). They have 10yr warranties but if you read the small print there is a £250 call out fee to inspect any warranty claim, where no doubt they will say it is due to improper maintainance and you'll be another £250 down. Thankfully mine will be mostly covered in the near future when i do an extension porch thing.
I'm thinking of taking the door off and injecting epoxy behind each lifted piece and clamping either side of the door (long boards) with a suitable slip membrane over the glued area, if it last another twenty five years I will be 100 that will do me.
Use parcel tape over the boards used to clamp, epoxy shouldnt stick to that
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
People are often more plank like than doors.As said they are all rubbish. They often make a big point of talking about things like "engineered core for added strength and stability" and "A-grade Oak veneer" but it all means nothing when the veneer starts lifting after a couple of years.
Some friends wanted an Oak veneered stable door fitting, I could tell they were a bit upset when I wouldn't do it and advised against it, they got somebody else to do the job. About 2 years later they came to ask why the veneer was lifting on the door
Thanks for the suggestion. I used to vacuum bag the wings of my model jets with epoxy, the bags where polythene, seemed nothing would stick to it.Use parcel tape over the boards used to clamp, epoxy shouldnt stick to that
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Sellotape is good and doesn't leave a brown sticky residue that some parcel tapes do.
Just to add to my above post, don't use a printed polythene bag the print comes off and can contaminate the epoxy, I have a Sainsbury's wing to prove it.
