Excalibur 21 TS not working ?

[Buff pekin]

My saw has stopped working , changed usual stuff , plug fuse and machine fuse , so little lost what will be the problem ? , could it the switch to saw ? . Not a electrically mined person . Any advice will be welcome . !

 

[Dominik Pierog]

On guaranty? Its could be engine, driver or "wires"

 

[AES]

As above. But how old is it? Where did you buy it? Have you got the Manual? Manual has a list of things to check if it stops. Have you tried those?

Has is got an NVR (big red knob to stop it)? It could be that. Unless it's the electronics (which converts the 220V incoming into 60V DC for the motor), electrically, it's not all that complex a machine, so unless it's a wire dropped off/broken (unlikely), most likely it's "only" going to be the On/Off switch or the speed control knob. More info needed, e.g. how/when did it stop?

 

[Buff pekin]

As above. But how old is it? Where did you buy it? Have you got the Manual? Manual has a list of things to check if it stops. Have you tried those?

Has is got an NVR (big red knob to stop it)? It could be that. Unless it's the electronics (which converts the 220V incoming into 60V DC for the motor), electrically, it's not all that complex a machine, so unless it's a wire dropped off/broken (unlikely), most likely it's "only" going to be the On/Off switch or the speed control knob. More info needed, e.g. how/when did it stop?

As above. But how old is it? Where did you buy it? Have you got the Manual? Manual has a list of things to check if it stops. Have you tried those?

Has is got an NVR (big red knob to stop it)? It could be that. Unless it's the electronics (which converts the 220V incoming into 60V DC for the motor), electrically, it's not all that complex a machine, so unless it's a wire dropped off/broken (unlikely), most likely it's "only" going to be the On/Off switch or the speed control knob. More info needed, e.g. how/when did it stop?

 

[Buff pekin]

The saw is 6- 7 years old , bought it second hand, off flea bay, and a normal saw without NvR . The saw was working normal , then stopped working.
many thanks

 

[AES]

Very sorry Buff, but for ANYONE to stand any chance of helping you, more info IS needed!

1. Have you got a Manual? If not would you like a .pdf copy (the Manual includes a list of simple checks to make if it "doesn't work)? Send me a PM if Yes.

2. How exactly did it stop working - suddenly, in the middle of a cut? Or after some time of not being used then next time you plugged it in it didn't work? Any other pointers/remarks in the "doesn't work" area?

3. Have you tried working it while rotating the speed control knob throughout its full range of movement?

With respect Buff, you remind me very much of some pilots (fortunately a minority, otherwise I'd have had a heart attack by now) I used to deal with who came back from a test flight and said "helpful" stuff like "one engine's down on power" (in other words about as much help as a chocolate tea pot)!!! And I really DID used to get cross with them! So the following is quite mild!

I'm no expert, but have an Excalibur 21 myself, about the same age as yours. But to be of any help at all, "remote distance fault diagnosis" needs AS MUCH info from the user as possible, not just "stopped working"! Silly Example: "Have you paid your electricity bill this month mate?"!!!!

Real examples - how do you know the fuses you replaced (2 separate fuses I hope, one mains, one 60 V DC I hope) are OK? Any smoke and or smell when it stopped? When did you last clean it out with a vac? Have you looked for wires disconnected/broken, or connectors loose or hanging off? Does it turn over manually? Are the carbon brushes (motor) OK? When did you last lubricate it as per the Manual? Is the arm properly adjusted for parallel to the table so that when fitted and the tension toggle pulled towards you, does the blade have the correct tension (I'd expect too much tension to just break blades but suppose it's possible an over-tensioned blade could stop it running)?

Sorry to sound terse, but while I'm perfectly prepared to try and help you, I'm definitely NOT prepared to spend all night playing guessing games based on NIL info from you mate!

If you want help (from me or, I suggest, any other member here) then it would be a good idea to start out "helping to help yourself" by giving some info - actually by giving ALL the info you can possibly think of!

Sorry, but QUOTE: The saw was working normal , then stopped working. UNQUOTE: Does not cut it!

Guess you'd better start off with a copy of the Manual (assuming you don't have one). As above, just PM me, but don't forget to include an E-mail address where you want it sent to.

 

[EddyCurrent]

It looks VERY much like an Axminster AT535SS and the manual for that can be downloaded from their web page.
As AES said, it has a speed control so there are a few things to test.

 

[AES]

It looks VERY much like an Axminster AT535SS and the manual for that can be downloaded from their web page.
As AES said, it has a speed control so there are a few things to test.

You're quite right EddyCurrent, it IS basically the same saw. But the Axminster Tools version has been "cheapened" in the mechanicals area so isn't now the same as the original General International/Pegas/Excalibur machine. Axi used to be the UK dealer for the original machines (and for spares, and Pegas blades) but I don't know if that's still true now that they have their own "cheapened" version. However I THINK (don't know) that with their cheapo version Axi have not changed the electrics, only the mechanicals. It sounds from the very small amount of info that the OP has given that his problem is electrical, not mechanical, so IF he needs electrical spares, such as motor brushes or new speed controller, Axi spares should be OK.

But I'm not going to spend any more time on this unless/until the OP comes up with some more helpful info.

 

[Buff pekin]

The saw just stopped working , it was working fine . The next I can to it stopped . The fuse for the saw was black , so I thought was the problem . ( 5amp) . So swapped that , tried saw again no luck .
Thanks again in trying to solve my problem

 

[AES]

Sorry mate, I'm obviously failing to get "the message" across! I can't help you further.

 

[MARK.B.]

A few years ago our washing machine stopped working and i did all the usual stuff like checking for blockages in the pipes and filter and i changed the fuse but still no joy . Of course it was out of warranty so 80 of your finest English Pounds was spent on getting an Engineer out to it. First thing he did was take out the fuse and test it , despite being straight out of the packet the New fuse was duff . He replaced with another fuse which he tested before putting in and hey presto round and round it went . First thing i did after he left apart from cursing ( a lot ) was to get a fuse tester from Amazon for a few quid ,and it has saved me from at least one repeat episode with the Dishwasher,so money well spent . Turns out that 4 of the other 13amp fuses in the multi pack were duff as well.

 

[chrisdt]

I have an Excalibur EX21 which is black and gold Anniversary Edition(John Player Special colours) Had a similar problem. Best advice I can give is to give the machine a complete strip down. Remove the motor, side panels, check the bearings. They are only tiny but do a lot of work Check the linkage. Its a bit like a watch really (Thats my other hobby) you cant tell whats wrong until its in pieces

 

[Spectric]

Just be logical, that is all problem solving is about. First check the socket you are pluging it into is Ok, plug something else into it. Also recheck the new fuse you fitted, it may have blown again which would indicate a short in the machine. Then with a DVM check that power is at the live side of the switch, and progress through the circuit. With no NVR switch then it is much simpler to trace through, especially if you have the circuit diagram. If it is electrically like the AT535SS then you can check power is getting to the PCB, now check the voltage rating of the motor to see if it is 230Vac. If it is then you can just apply power to the motor to see if it works, if it does you need a new PCB otherwise you need to look at the motor itself. Looking at the AT535SS it uses a brushed motor so remove the brushes and also take a look at the comutator at the bottom of the brush hole, is it black and dirty looking which indicates it at least needs cleaning.

 

[AES]

Just be logical, that is all problem solving is about. First check the socket you are pluging it into is Ok, plug something else into it. Also recheck the new fuse you fitted, it may have blown again which would indicate a short in the machine. Then with a DVM check that power is at the live side of the switch, and progress through the circuit. With no NVR switch then it is much simpler to trace through, especially if you have the circuit diagram. If it is electrically like the AT535SS then you can check power is getting to the PCB, now check the voltage rating of the motor to see if it is 230Vac. If it is then you can just apply power to the motor to see if it works, if it does you need a new PCB otherwise you need to look at the motor itself. Looking at the AT535SS it uses a brushed motor so remove the brushes and also take a look at the comutator at the bottom of the brush hole, is it black and dirty looking which indicates it at least needs cleaning.

Not trying to be "smart" Spectric, but the motor on the Excalibur 21 is brushed, 60 Volts DC.

About the only bit of "sense" that I could get out of the OP when I asked loads of Q's (the majority of which he didn't even try to reply to) was that "the fuse looked black so I changed it". On my own Exc 21, which is approx the same age as the OP's, the fuse for the motor is clear glass (5 Amp if I remember correctly - being Swiss I don't have a fuse in my 220V mains plug).

So assuming it's his motor fuse that blew, the blackness "suggests" to me that the motor may have undergone some sort of pretty heavy overload, and/or the brushes are worn out.

Also, AFAIK, the Exc 21 has a "simple" speed control (wire-wound pot???) which could also be a candidate, but when I asked the OP if he'd tried to run the machine with the speed control in all it's different settings, from full fast to full slow, he simply didn't reply.

My experience in trying my best to help the OP that he is so dis-interested (and/or just too plain to ignorant answer) that he just doesn't try to "help others to help him", which I why I gave up with him sometime last week.

My only reason for "jumping in again" now is simply to correct you on the motor voltage. Good luck if you want to try him further, as said before, "I'm out"!

 

[Spectric]

Not trying to be "smart" Spectric, but the motor on the Excalibur 21 is brushed, 60 Volts DC.

Thats why I said to check the voltage rating of the motor to see if it is 230Vac before applying any voltage to it. So we know this PCB changes the 230 Vac to 60 VDc but what method does it use to control the speed of the motor bearing in mind it only has two wires so no direct feedback? How expensive is a new PCB, might be worth just fitting one after checking that Pot is giving full range.

 

[AES]

Thats why I said to check the voltage rating of the motor to see if it is 230Vac before applying any voltage to it. So we know this PCB changes the 230 Vac to 60 VDc but what method does it use to control the speed of the motor bearing in mind it only has two wires so no direct feedback? How expensive is a new PCB, might be worth just fitting one after checking that Pot is giving full range.

 

[AES]

Yup, precisely Spectric. I honestly don't know, and although I've bought some spares for my machine (not needed, just as "emergency stand by,s") and found all the prices very reasonable, I've no idea what a new PCB would cost. Neither do I know exactly how the speed controller works - i.e. at what point it "comes into the circuit". And BTW, although the Manual is excellent, unfortunately it doesn't include a circuit diagam. So as I've never had trouble with mine, with a circuit diagram I would have at least some idea of "how it works" (I suspect the PCB is quite complicated - therefore "not cheap")!

But the OP hasn't answered any of my Q's which would give a start on decent fault diagnosis, so as said, I've given up with him. BTW, I also offered the OP a scanned copy of my complete Manual - which does contain a lot of useful info, even if no circuit diagram, but in the light of my above comments you may not be surprised to hear that I got nil reply to that offer from him. Anyway, as said, I've given up with him, so "over to you mate, and the best of British"!

Thanks for trying, maybe you'll get more response from him?

Cheers

 

[Spectric]

Yes you try and help some people and they must expect you to have a crystal ball and know about all of their problems and perform a miracle cure. Be much easier if they provided feedback along the way as it helps the people trying to assist.

I remember some years ago an article about a person who contacted an IT support group wanting help with their Pc. Basically the tech guy asked all sorts of questions trying to help but only got vague response and when he asked them to check the rear connections the person just stated they will have to fetch a torch because they have got a power cut.

 

[Buff pekin]

Hi , scrollers,
Sorted problem with my saw , it was the circuit board , saw running fine now .
Many thanks who take time to help me , thanks