Electric Chainsaw

[Jonzjob]

I have had a Sthil chain saw for over 20 years now, if fact my 1st one lasted about 20 years before I managed to burn the piston out . I am now the proud owner of a 180c 14" bar model and it is fantastic. I too have back, neck and hand arthritis problems and have to be very careful. The 180c has an 'easy start' system where you pull the string to start it, but instead of turning the engine it winds up a spring. When it had a couple of inches to go the spring lets go and kicks the engine over and it starts --- every time!

Just as a matter of interest when you start a saw you should have it on the ground with your steel capped boot through the handle and your left hand holding the top handle. That way you are not waving the thing around with only one hand holding it like you see the cowboys doing. With the easy start, when the engine is warm, you can grip the handle between your knees and start it quite safely.

I was comparing the weight between my 180c and the same size eleky model in a garden centre this morning. The eleky model is slightly lighter, but not by much. Thinking about eleky models. If you do get one then 2 things that you need on it are 1. a chain brake so that if it does kick back and you are hit it is with a stationary chain and the second is an automatic chain oiler and not one that you have to pump every now and then. And don't forget to keep it topped up. It's easy with mine because every time I fill the fuel I do the same with the oil.

On the lines of safety you should be wearing the correct trousers, a pair of steel capped boots, good gloves and, at the very least, safety glasses and a hard hat. Chain saws can bite and when they do they don't take prisoners, well not in one piece anyway. Last summer one of our French neighbours had all the normal French kit on while using his saw. You know the stuff, shorts and flip flops! What a pillock!

Whatever you choose treat it with a great deal of respect and it will be your best friend

 

[sliver]

Hi Tom,
If I'd been closer to you instead of about 250 miles away, I would have DEFINITELY been round wiv me petrol Ryobi to carve it up for you.

Kent from yorkshire is a bit of a trek as you will no doubt agree.

Hope you get sorted if not already done so

cheers, sliver.

P.S. Sympathy with back probs... Me too, not enough to stop me working but too much to let me do all the things I want to do.

 

[big soft moose]

Just as a matter of interest when you start a saw you should have it on the ground with your steel capped boot through the handle and your left hand holding the top handle. That way you are not waving the thing around with only one hand holding it like you see the cowboys doing. With the easy start, when the engine is warm, you can grip the handle between your knees and start it quite safely.

on a cold start i generally prefer to kneel with the heel of my right boot on the flared handle (my foot dont fit thru) , and my left knee pressed up against the engine housing, pulling thr recoil with my right hand.

once the saw is warm you can start it gripped between your thighs with your left hand on the front handle.

regarding the safety issue i notice axminster are doing a safety kit inc hat, troosers, and gloves for 85 boys which isnt bad ( for wood turning work you can get away with wearing this stuff with your toe tectors - if you are going to do forestry you need a decent pair ofchainsaw boots in addition)

and back on thread subject one thing to beware of with cheaper electric saws is that the drive sprocket is generally plastic - this is fine as it goes but if you overload the saw - for instance while rippingdown the grain , its quite easy to strip the sprocket - at which point your saw is knacked as it often isnt replaceable.

the more expensive saws like sthil have metal sprockets which are both more robust and easily replaced if they are damaged.

 

[dickm]

and back on thread subject one thing to beware of with cheaper electric saws is that the drive sprocket is generally plastic - this is fine as it goes but if you overload the saw - for instance while rippingdown the grain , its quite easy to strip the sprocket - at which point your saw is knacked as it often isnt replaceable.
the more expensive saws like sthil have metal sprockets which are both more robust and easily replaced if they are damaged.

You don't need to tell me . And according to a Maculloch dealer in the USA, my 10 year old saw was totally obsolete, so they don't supply spares any more.
Have to let the moths out of the wallet and buy that Husky.....

 

[Haldane]

I've been using a cheap McCullouch electric saw from Argos without any major problems for a couple of years. I have stripped the teeth from the plastic sprocket once but managed to get a replacement off the shelf from Henton and Chapel local garden machinery specialists