Eclipse No. 7 CP - Coping with more tension.

[xy mosian]

I don't need to use a coping saw very often. The one I have I have known for more than sixty years, crikey, yes it was my dad's. Of course the saw, or rather the blade, sags through lack of tension. Not needing the saw very often the problem gets sidelined, and forgotten.
Yestarday the problem reared it's head again and I decided to do something about it. Some make complete frame saw frames to hold the standard blade. Me I wondered if the Eclipse could be converted to frame saw set up. An answer turned out to be quick and simple, not perfect for all uses but good enough for the job in hand.
Maximum tension on frame I started with.

Strut sizing.

Much more tension as can be seen by the gap on the tensioning screw near the handle.

I don't claim this at all. Who knows if, or where, I may have seen it on the cloudy web.
Any way five minutes and the result is a blade with a good ping when tensioned.

I hope this may be useful.
Geoff.

 

[Orraloon]

Quite like that and may give it a try. I have an Eclipse coping saw and would be happier if I could put more tension on it. I did make a small frame saw and while I can tension that up as much as I like I need to use a small spanner to rotate the blade. I could not come up with a method of using the existing blade holders on a wooden frame saw.

Regards
John

 

[xy mosian]

Hi John, That is a useful looking frame saw. I understand your snag with the existing, Eclipse, blade holders. The end remote from the handle is effectively a loose rivet on mine, very difficult to remove without destroying it or the frame I would think.
Five minutes with a piece of scrap making a strut might be useful on the existing saw.
Thanks for commenting.
geoff

 

[Trafalgar]

If your coping saw blade is bowing, you're pushing too hard rather than moving the saw and letting it do the work. Try using a coarser blade if the slowness of cut is causing you to try to force it to go faster. Any solid steel framed saw will work fine. The tube framed ones work ok as long as you're just using them to cope softwood mouldings.

The uber-stiff, built like a roof truss, coping saws were an answer, I suppose, but mostly to bad and impatient sawing.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

on't forget to lube threads also.

 

[xy mosian]

If your coping saw blade is bowing, you're pushing too hard rather than moving the saw and letting it do its work. Try using a coarser blade if the slowness of cut is causing you to try to force it to go faster. Any solid steel framed saw will work fine. The tube framed ones work ok as long as you're just using them to cope softwood mouldings.

The uber-stiff, built like a roof truss, coping saws were an answer, I suppose, but mostly to bad and impatient sawing.

Thanks Trafalgar,
You have clearly identified me as a bad sawer, which I fully accept.
As for coarser blades, I was not aware that these blades are available in different pitch. My use yesterday was in roughing out a hardwood carving block. Could you point me towards coarser blades please.
geoff

 

[xy mosian]

Don't forget to lube threads also.

Hi, HS,
I was just wondering about this very point today, a little light oil perhaps?
geoff

 

[AES]

Thanks Trafalgar,
You have clearly identified me as a bad sawer, which I fully accept.
As for coarser blades, I was not aware that these blades are available in different pitch. My use yesterday was in roughing out a hardwood carving block. Could you point me towards coarser blades please.
geoff

@xy: If you check in the Scroll Sawing section here you'll find a sticky there, all about blades. As the thread title makes clear, the thread isn't only about scroll saw blades, but includes a lot of info - including downloadable tables - detailing thicknesses, TPI's, lengths, etc, on junior hack saw blades, jewelers'/piercing saw blades, coping saw blades, and other fine wood and metal working blades.

HTH

 

[Trafalgar]

Thanks Trafalgar,
You have clearly identified me as a bad sawer, which I fully accept.
As for coarser blades, I was not aware that these blades are available in different pitch. My use yesterday was in roughing out a hardwood carving block. Could you point me towards coarser blades please.
geoff

https://www.olsonsaw.net/cat/coping-jewelers-mini-hack-blades-saws/coping-blades-and-saws/
Play this in the background while you're sawing and maintain about the same tempo:



If you need to put very sharp curves in thick, hard material I'm afraid you're going to have to move up to power tools or make release cuts with a tenon saw and chisel to the lines. You can only ask so much of a coping saw, even the fancy-schmancy ones. The blades will only take so much tension.

 

[xy mosian]

@xy: If you check in the Scroll Sawing section here you'll find a sticky there, all about blades. As the thread title makes clear, the thread isn't only about scroll saw blades, but includes a lot of info - including downloadable tables - detailing thicknesses, TPI's, lengths, etc, on junior hack saw blades, jewelers'/piercing saw blades, coping saw blades, and other fine wood and metal working blades.

HTH

https://www.olsonsaw.net/cat/coping-jewelers-mini-hack-blades-saws/coping-blades-and-saws/
Play this in the background while you're sawing and maintain about the same tempo:



If you need to put very sharp curves in thick, hard material I'm afraid you're going to have to move up to power tools or make release cuts with a tenon saw and chisel to the lines. You can only ask so much of a coping saw, even the fancy-schmancy ones.

Thank you gentlemen both. Very useful information there.

geoff

 

[furnace]

My solution works well and is cheap

 

[xy mosian]

My solution works well and is cheap

Hey I like that furnace, adjustable too.

geoff

 

[xy mosian]

@xy: If you check in the Scroll Sawing section here you'll find a sticky there, all about blades. As the thread title makes clear, the thread isn't only about scroll saw blades, but includes a lot of info - including downloadable tables - detailing thicknesses, TPI's, lengths, etc, on junior hack saw blades, jewelers'/piercing saw blades, coping saw blades, and other fine wood and metal working blades.

HTH

AES, I have just looked for the sticky you mention. Sorry to say I could not see it at the start of the Scroll sawing section.

geoff

 

[AES]

AES, I have just looked for the sticky you mention. Sorry to say I could not see it at the start of the Scroll sawing section.

geoff

Oh, OK geoff. Perhaps it's moved. Here' s the link:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...lers-piercing-coping-junior-hack-saws.121380/

 

[Ttrees]

Looks tidier and more nimble than the turnbuckle solution,
be interested whether it stays, and a mention of it being permanent or not,
i.e need for de-tensioning it or the blade, or if it holds up fine without,
and stays tight.
Cheers
Tom

 

[xy mosian]

Oh, OK geoff. Perhaps it's moved. Here' s the link:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...lers-piercing-coping-junior-hack-saws.121380/

Thanks AES, I found earlier and added a post to bring your post nearer to the top of the listing.

 

[xy mosian]

Looks tidier and more nimble than the turnbuckle solution,
be interested whether it stays, and a mention of it being permanent or not,
i.e need for de-tensioning it or the blade, or if it holds up fine without,
and stays tight.
Cheers
Tom

Hi Tom,
Fortunately I thought of that. The strut was sized to be a snug fit on the un-tensioned frame, without a blade. 1/2 to 3/4 of a millimetre longer than the gap, or thereabouts. So remove the blade and the strut stays in place, but can be removed with relative ease. Then of course the problem is finding the strut when the two become separated.
geoff

 

[AES]

Thanks AES, I found earlier and added a post to bring your post nearer to the top of the listing.

Thanks Geoff. It WAS a sticky, but perhaps someone changed/moved it. I haven't looked for it for a while now (I see it's already 3 years old "tempus fugit" and all that).

Anyway, hope it helps. I thought the Swiss tend to approach things in a complicated manner, but IMHO, some of the suggestions above are WAY OTT. For me,it's pretty simple - if the saw frame is a bit bent, just bend it back the other way a bit - and perhaps add a new blade; if it's too slack, buy/make another saw frame, they're cheap/easy enough surely?

For me, the idea of adding a big "brace" - which looks heavy when compared to the saw frame - to something which is normally used to "light/fine" cuts must be counter-productive. But "each to his own". If I haven't tried it myself - I haven't - I cannot say "it's wrong/doesn't work for me".

 

[TRITON]

Nice, quick, simple and effective. Well done.

Theres a good vid on making a small coping saw i found on YT a number of years ago. See if i can find it.....

....yup, here we are.

 

[AES]

Nice, quick, simple and effective. Well done.

Theres a good vid on making a small coping saw i found on YT a number of years ago. See if i can find it.....

....yup, here we are.

Now THAT looks like a nice piece of work Sir! Bet it's a dream to use