Eclipse No. 7 CP - Coping with more tension.

[cowtown_eric]

Well, I zoomed in on the image and it appears to me that he blade is installed backwards....A coping saw works best on the pull stroke, and not on the push-stroke!

 

[Inspector]

Well, I zoomed in on the image and it appears to me that he blade is installed backwards....A coping saw works best on the pull stroke, and not on the push-stroke!

Kind of depends on what you’re doing. For some people standing and coping a molding on a sawhorse can be easier pushing because you can see the profile you’re following without having to crouch or sit. Ultimately it is user preference.

Pete

 

[AES]

Kind of depends on what you’re doing. For some people standing and coping a molding on a sawhorse can be easier pushing because you can see the profile you’re following without having to crouch or sit. Ultimately it is user preference.

Pete

Agreed. Also depends on the material you're cutting, and where (e.g. at the bench/in a vice; attached to the job; etc, etc)

 

[xy mosian]

If you need to put very sharp curves in thick, hard material I'm afraid you're going to have to move up to power tools or make release cuts with a tenon saw and chisel to the lines. You can only ask so much of a coping saw, even the fancy-schmancy ones. The blades will only take so much tension.

Hi Trafalgar, I am, on this occasion only roughing out, just getting rid of the bulk before chiselling or gouging. Using a staright cut, back saw, would have left quite a chunk to dig out of a tigh corner. I thought why not the coping saw?

 

[xy mosian]

Thanks Geoff. It WAS a sticky, but perhaps someone changed/moved it. I haven't looked for it for a while now (I see it's already 3 years old "tempus fugit" and all that).

Anyway, hope it helps. I thought the Swiss tend to approach things in a complicated manner, but IMHO, some of the suggestions above are WAY OTT. For me,it's pretty simple - if the saw frame is a bit bent, just bend it back the other way a bit - and perhaps add a new blade; if it's too slack, buy/make another saw frame, they're cheap/easy enough surely?

For me, the idea of adding a big "brace" - which looks heavy when compared to the saw frame - to something which is normally used to "light/fine" cuts must be counter-productive. But "each to his own". If I haven't tried it myself - I haven't - I cannot say "it's wrong/doesn't work for me".

Hi AES, The bent frame? Yes I have opened its legs a couple of times, but the problem generally returns quite quickly. Perhaps I expect too much from the coping saw. To me, at the moment, it is a saw which can cut along curved lines. A small portable scroll saw if you like.
A new frame is a possibility, more likely if the job rate, for the saw, rises above about two, or three, jobs a year.
Thank you for your input, and the work involved compiling the post on all things Scroll, Coping, and Piercing saw blades.
geoff

 

[xy mosian]

Well, I zoomed in on the image and it appears to me that he blade is installed backwards....A coping saw works best on the pull stroke, and not on the push-stroke!

Hi cowtown_eric, That is a good point, in my case using the saw, cutting on the pull stroke, led to some speltching which damaged the line I was trying to follow. The speltching will be cut out in the carving stage, I hope, but easier, for now if I can see the line.
geoff

 

[AES]

Hi AES, The bent frame? Yes I have opened its legs a couple of times, but the problem generally returns quite quickly. Perhaps I expect too much from the coping saw. To me, at the moment, it is a saw which can cut along curved lines. A small portable scroll saw if you like.
A new frame is a possibility, more likely if the job rate, for the saw, rises above about two, or three, jobs a year.
Thank you for your input, and the work involved compiling the post on all things Scroll, Coping, and Piercing saw blades.
geoff

Hi geoff. "Thanks for the thanks" mate. I've had loads of help from others on here so glad to "do my bit" too. Glad you found it useful.

Re "bend the frame", yup, it does work for a while, but I don't think most of these coping/piercing or fretsaw frames are really built for hard and/or long-term use. You could always make your own though (see above in this thread) or just buy new. I'm not in touch with current UK prices, but I GUESS that (excluding those with the "fancy girder work frames") they're still pretty cheap? But yeah, myself I use a "coping saw" (it's an Eclipse adjustable piercing saw frame actually) as a lightweight/portable saw for curve-cutting all sorts of wood, plastic, sheet metal & stuff.

I see your action + the Mod/s (MikeK I think?) have put that post of mine back up in the top of the Scroll Saw section as a sticky.

Cheers

 

[cowtown_eric]

Hi cowtown_eric, That is a good point, in my case using the saw, cutting on the pull stroke, led to some speltching which damaged the line I was trying to follow. The speltching will be cut out in the carving stage, I hope, but easier, for now if I can see the line.
geoff

try a finer blade!....that one looked in the "coarse" range

 

[xy mosian]

try a finer blade!....that one looked in the "coarse" range

Job done, at the moment, cw. This time I was cutting 35mm hardwood. Next time who knows. Still I'll keep my eyes open for fine blades.
Thanks,
geoff