What exactly is the problem you're having? BB's method will work just fine....
Dovetail Questions
- Thread starter DannyEssex
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DannyEssex
Established Member
CStanford":204p12nj said:
If you take another look at my first post it wasnt about the method of doing dovetails as such. The first question was about whether to present the tails on the long side of a box or the pins.
The second question was about taking the arrises? Off my chisels as I keep slicing my finger when gripping the tool and finally the last question was what blade to useand which direction to have the blade.
All of which I got answers for so cheers
:lol:
DannyEssex":1djj08am said:CStanford":1djj08am said:
If you take another look at my first post it wasnt about the method of doing dovetails as such. The first question was about whether to present the tails on the long side of a box or the pins.
The second question was about taking the arrises? Off my chisels as I keep slicing my finger when gripping the tool and finally the last question was what blade to useand which direction to have the blade.
All of which I got answers for so cheers
Super. Should be plenty of flawless dovetailing ahead.
Best,
Charles
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
People say Eclipse blades don't blunt easily, but I never found them sharp in the first place. I use blades from Screwfix, I think the brand is "Speedo", I'm not sure, as all my stuff is in storage at the moment, but they are so much sharper than Eclipse.
Graham Orm
Established Member
phil.p":4fjfyt12 said:
Agreed Phil. Eclipse blades are naff.
As Jacob said, a single cut through the waste with the DT saw is enough to release it when chopping out or even a diagonal cut through it to remove some of the waste.
The main thing is to cut back carefully in stages to the gauge line but leave a small amount, say 0.5mm, then cut directly into the gauge line with the gentlest tap with the chisel at 90 degrees, then lean the chisel forward to say 92 degrees so that your second cut under cuts slightly. This will prevent damaging the base line. Cut half way through then flip the piece over and repeat from the other side.
2 Gentle strokes with a stone will remove the sharp edge on the arisis of the chisel, with no detriment to the shape of the tool. Essential in my view as tape on your fingers stops any dexterity.
I never cease to enjoy the fiddly precision needed when cutting dovetails.
I use a pair of plus 3 glasses (off the shelf for £6 at Tesco), as well as a desk lamp. Good light and clear vision are essential.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Thank you, thank you. I always wondered if it was just me! It's a long time since I cut a dovetail, I use them for scribes, and on architraves etc. I use a piercing saw - it takes a little longer, but is much tidier. If you are the one doing the final decorating you save the time at that end, and have a better job.Plus 3 Glasses? We used to call them jam jar specs.
Actually I never thought of using high factor glasses for magnification. I'm up to +1, so I guess that +3 will magnify much more. Might save me buying an optivisor, for now. Unless they strain the eye too much? Don't know much about this kind of thing.
Actually I never thought of using high factor glasses for magnification. I'm up to +1, so I guess that +3 will magnify much more. Might save me buying an optivisor, for now. Unless they strain the eye too much? Don't know much about this kind of thing.
+3 will work for you, but you'll have to get your face close to whatever you're looking at.
Having a slightly stronger pair than needed is ok for occasional use, keep them handy as they will become your main pair.
Been there, got the t shirt
Having a slightly stronger pair than needed is ok for occasional use, keep them handy as they will become your main pair.
Been there, got the t shirt
Graham Orm
Established Member
MIGNAL":kdz0m7kk said:Plus 3 Glasses? We used to call them jam jar specs.
Actually I never thought of using high factor glasses for magnification. I'm up to +1, so I guess that +3 will magnify much more. Might save me buying an optivisor, for now. Unless they strain the eye too much? Don't know much about this kind of thing.
I use +2 for reading so 3 is just a step up for me. You do have to get close to the work, but you do that anyway when cutting DT's. I can't focus on anything over 18" away when wearing them, but couldn't cut DT's without them. I also have an optivisor. I use it to look at blades whilst sharpening.........and dead insects.
If you wear 2 pairs together you simply double the magnification.....worth knowing when struggling and there are 2 pairs of readers lying around.
