Dom's workshop build

[will1983]

Just keep checking it with your thumb and a float. As soon as it's strong enough to stand on without making a mess of it it's soon enough to start floating.

Don't get to carried away with the floating though, like Mike said it's possible to over work it and get a surface that's no longer really suitable for a floor. A scattering of saw dust on a smooth surface can make it like an ice rink.

Also if you've got any rolls of hessian get that on it after you've floated and give it a good soaking with the hose. You'll have to keep drenching it in this weather or it'll dry out and crack. Concreting is not all about the prep and placing, curing is more important than all with regards to getting a quality result.

Looks like you had a bit of excess there, unless you are keeping that where its lying you need to get it moved as soon as its green enough to break up easily If you wait until it's cured it'll be a pig of a job to break up into pieces small enough to be movable.

Looks good by the way, especially considering you've not done any of this sort of work before. It's certainly more than most people would attempt so hats off to you mate!

 

[DomD]

Keeping it wet, have put dpm over it to slow evaporation. Dug out a lot of the excess and moved to bulk bags.

Very glad it's over with and I can move on to the more fun parts of the build.

 

[DomD]

State of the slab this am - was damp when I removed dpm and adding more water soon to slow drying.

Currently mining out formwork.

 

[DomD]

First two corners laid with help from a relative who is a former bricklayer - good to have someone with experience on hand.
Little slants due to slightly uneven corners (slab itself is flat).

 

[DomD]

What screws should I be using to screw the fir band strapping into the bricks?
Also if I build the longer walls in two sections, is connecting them together with nails through each side stud and at the double top plate acceptable?
Thanks

 

[DomD]

I'm going to use these screws for attaching the strapping.

I have been doing some more brickwork and the back wall is now complete. Frog is up on the top course - should that be filled before dpc goes down?

 

[DomD]

Quite a few bits done over past few days:

First I finished off the brickwork... Not perfect but I'm happy with the two facing sides.

Next I used a hammer drill to drill into the concrete - went through it very easily, I suppose it has not reached full strength yet.

Then I screwed down the metal strapping- first time using an impact driver and I'm confused as to why i didn't get one earlier!

Then I attached the blocks, sawn in half with a dodgy jig so there is some slant in each. There are some gaps between the blocks and bricks which I will fill with grout.

I also got the windows, the big one is 1870*935mm and the smaller is 480*750. I plan to use doubled up 2x8s for the header over the larger.. will put in one trimmer stud which I believe is enough for a window of this size. Is it fine to put the header right up against the top plate and add cripples below so the window could be moved up in future?
Thanks

 

[DomD]

Did some more earlier this week - hope to get walls constructed and up next week but am away at the moment.

I filled in all the frogs and added a thin layer over the blocks and bricks to create a smooth surface for the frame to sit on. You can see slab is not completely flat as water runs to back - this must have been down to an imperfection in the cleat or bow in timbers.

Then this arrived... all the timber for the walls (and sheathing for everything, 11mm osb).

Then I cut all the studs down to length (2090mm, tall ceilings I know but still below 4m at ridge with 30° roof).

Marking up all the walls, went for a double trimmer for this window in the end. Used 24in oc spacing.

These are my corners (California corners).

Also got a paslode nail gun and will be using 90mm smooth galvanised nails for the frame so it should go together quickly.

Dom

 

[DomD]

Three walls framed today and braced; hopefully last tommorow.

Finished walls.

Measuring diagonals.

Braced walls (with 25*50s).

I am face nailing the frames with 2 3in nails per stud face.

 

[MikeG.]

Great to see your progress, Dom. Like you, I'm always pleased to get out of the ground and start doing "the fun bits".

 

[DomD]

Great to see your progress, Dom. Like you, I'm always pleased to get out of the ground and start doing "the fun bits".

The concrete definitely stressed me out a bit just because I have never done anything like that before; probably quite a big job for a first.

Quick question on windows. The second hand uPVCs I bought do not come with sills, so I assume along with 5mm on each side for packing I add 40mm height in the opening for standard uPVC sills. This is the only video of UK windows being installed in a timber frame I can find - does that look like the correct method?

Thanks

 

[MikeG.]

Can't help you with your windows. I've no experience of plastic windows, and intend to keep it that way.

 

[ManowarDave]

Can't speak for timber frame but have put in the odd one over the years to brick. The only concern I'd have with timber is over packing the spacers. If the timber swells you might struggle to open the window.

If you are looking at using expanding foam, mask off REALLY well. Sticks like **** to a blanket. And never, ever try to clean it up before it sets...DAMHIKT. After that one experience I've always just used frame sealant to fill the gap.

BTW, his saw in that video had me reaching for a scotch brite pad and some WD40

Dave

 

[DomD]

Can't speak for timber frame but have put in the odd one over the years to brick. The only concern I'd have with timber is over packing the spacers. If the timber swells you might struggle to open the window.

If you are looking at using expanding foam, mask off REALLY well. Sticks like dung to a blanket. And never, ever try to clean it up before it sets...DAMHIKT. After that one experience I've always just used frame sealant to fill the gap.

BTW, his saw in that video had me reaching for a scotch brite pad and some WD40

Dave

I will make sure not to pack too tight.

Another question: currently making largest header out of 2x8s but no plywood spacer (window). I'm going to glue then nail the header together before framing the wall. As I have double trimmer studs should I nail one to the king stud first then add the next to that?
I'm also putting header right up against top plate for all openings, and having cripples under that to the top of the opening.
May be too late for advice as I'm doing it now
Thanks

 

[DomD]

This is the largest header glued then nailed 3in apart on the red diagonals; on the alternate side nailed across the green line at 12in oc. I then nailed this beam to the king studs with 8 3.1in nails a side (4 per 2x).

 

[MikeG.]

This is the largest header........

Stop watching American youtube clips! That's a lintel. :wink:

 

[DomD]

This is the largest header........

Stop watching American youtube clips! That's a lintel. :wink:

Heh - that's what happens when you get all your info from the web; is it 'trimmer' or 'jack' stud in British English?

The first and second lintels are now in place. Both glued, nailed with the pattern above: for the 2x8 I used 4 nails a 2x8 and for the 2x6 I used 3 per 2x6.

Lintels are right up against the top plate as in images.

 

[DomD]

Just realised I forgot trimmer studs for the door. Will add later.

Four walls up now but I have lost my helper and can't lift them on my own: rest will have to be tommorow. You can see the walls are quite high (maximum without planning permission).

This is the view from the landscaped steps up:

 

[DomD]

Drawn out plans for eaves detail:

Wondering if that looks okay. I assume the movement of air into the void below the roofing sheets and through the foam filler is enough ventilation? Does the foam filler also act as insect mesh?
Thanks

 

[MikeG.]

You'll find that eaves closer difficult, and it doesn't provide anywhere for the top of the boarding to finish against. Take a look at my workshop build thread at The Woodhaven 2 to see photos of an easier and neater approach.