Does anyone know...

[L Harding]

matty, yes it is only round for the first 40mm then square for the next four 40mm layers and a solid last section

 

[Shrubby]

Luke
Famag, Zobo and Planet all make 80mm drill bits - sawtooth/forstner type.
You'll need a substantial machine to turn them though. Maybe an engineers drill - slow and torquey
A pattern mill would be good too
Matt

 

[TEO]

How's about a diamond core drill? I've never used one on wood but might be worth an experimental try, and then sand out any discolouration for the first few inches, the rest will be hidden by the bottle. Hmm...really not sure about this as a suggestion but if I couldn't find another way I'd give it a try.
Good luck,
T

 

[ondablade]

Hi L. Dieter Schmid does good Famag Bormax Forstner's that go up into very large sizes with a 16mm shank: http://www.fine-tools.com/bohr4.htm

Not cheap though....

The problem i guess is the diameter. No matter what way you do it it means it's going to take a lot of torque to turn it, and a good rigid fixing to stabilise it.

Unless perhaps you go slow and manual - but then it'll probably get awkward to stop it wobbling about and grabbing - if one side bites before the other at a big diameter for sure it'll pull crooked....

ian

 

[sometimewoodworker]

of anywhere or anyone that would have some kit capable of drilling/boring a 80 dia hole about 200mm deep into solid elm?

either paying someone to do it for me, or renting time on the kit to do it myself.

luke

So far nobody seems to have given an answer that permits cutting the hole with the least horse power. So far I have been cutting 54mm holes 80mm deep in a similar hard wood. However cutting in sections then breaking the core out should not be too challenging.

Here is a sample of the work the sides and MDF cores were cit with the carbide HS

The saw used was a single tooth version of the ones shown here http://www.axminster.co.uk/sessionID/GLC/product-Bosch-Multi-Construction-Holesaws-577657.htm these cut with much less effort than a regular holw saw.

I also pre-drilled the pilot hole then used a plain steel 1/4" rod in the hole saw

The ones I used are these.

 

[devonwoody]

I think this is a suitable job to give to super bionic woodworms. :x

 

[Chris Knight]

Short of making some monstrous contraption to carry a boring head on a very long quill, I can't see any way to do it with simple tools that doesn't involve an huge amount of work and/or a very ragged result.

I think I'd use EPS and wrap it with elm veneer... :wink:

 

[CNC Paul]

My choice would be 5 pc of wood about 45mm thick, cut the holes in each one with a router with a top bearing cutter and a template, when you glue them up use some flat strips of wood pushed into the holes to align them all.
Then turn to size.

 

[dchallender]

Have you thought about a portable magnetic drill? I used these when I was a fitter on steel work, i.e. clamp it to the machine and then accurate drilling. you can get these upto 50mm dia in steel and various depths, so I am sure they would be ok for 80mm in wood.

Here is a link of the types I mean scroll down and look for the magnetic or rotabores type (they go upto 100mm dia).

http://www.tedbartinkerhire.co.uk/MainFiles/Drilling.html

On this website you can get a 100mm dia rotabore and a pipe clamp all for about £58 for a day. I'm not associated with these or have ever used them but I have used similar kit so you can do it using a similar manner as you would for steel pipework.

As long as you can get a bit with an extension I am sure you could do it, failing that you need to get hold of someone with a radial arm drill.

hope that helps

rgds

Darren

 

[Mr Ed]

I think CNC Paul has it - route the circles in individual planks and then laminate them together.

Ed

 

[Benchwayze]

This is how I'd do it:

Glue up laminated pieces (say 50mm thick) with newsprint in the joints.
Square-up the blank and mark one side with the triangle mark.
Drill to the required depth using a small bit to give you a guide-hole in each piece.

Separate the pieces and drill as many as you need with the hole saw.

Turn some 'bungs' of the right depth and a shade under the diameter of the holes.

Glue the pieces back together using the triangle as a reference.

Put a bung in each hole and wet them so they swell. These sacrificial bungs will protect the edges of the holes.

Turn it on the lathe, slow speed. (My lathe has a 48 inch bed, 9 inch swing)

Then plenty of sanding should do the trick.
It shouldn't be too difficult to get the bungs out when they are dry.

I have never tried this of course, but it might work.

HTH
John

 

[kasandrich]

But the point you have missed is that he already has the piece of wood and he doesn't want to cut it.

 

[Benchwayze]

I just had an idea is all..

Not to worry.. Ignore my previous!

I'll try again then..

If the stock is already in the round, cradle it well and mark the circles you want:

Drill small pilot holes to the full depth.
Chisel away the waste but not quite to the line.
When you reduce the waste to an amount the large bit can cope with safely, bore out the remaining waste, (using a long pilot drill of course), until you reach the depth you want. The last bits of 'plug' can be chiselled out with care.

It won't be quick, but it should work.
Unless I missed something again!

John

 

[L Harding]

But the point you have missed is that he already has the piece of wood and he doesn't want to cut it.

This is true, although i do appreciate all your help, thankyou

The way people are describing (laminating a series of layers drilled seperatly) is exactly the way i made the previous one (pictured)

I cant do that this time for a few reasons, the chief being that the bottles need to go around the trunk, in a spiral, making that method impossible. Plus with the laminating method you dont get a constant grain, and finding a 10 inch elm trunk with no hint of rot is quite a find so id like to keep it intact. Plus its only part seasoned (feld for about two year, been rough turned in my workshop for about a year) and the client wants it to crack/twist (to a point) as it ages.

As i see it my options are to got with the hole saw and chisel out the wast by hand option, which i can see being a big issue once you get quite deep, or finding a company with some large boreing machinery to do it for me.

Thanks again for the help

Luke

 

[dickm]

Darren's magnetic drill idea sounds the most useful, especially if you could clamp steel joist or similar on to the timber to hold the drill. I'd have thought that if you used a length of H-section RSJ that would provide really good location and you could place that at any circular angle on the timber.

 

[newt]

The oil industry have drills this size and can cope with 200mm depth :lol:

 

[CNC Paul]

If you want to plot the holes on a spiral you could do it with a CNC indexer ( a cross between a CNC router and a lathe), you would need to plot two sets of holes opposite each other because of the limitation of cutter length and Z axis travel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ee0qc7p ... re=related


I am building an indexer for my CNC router one at the moment with just one more component to be machined before I can get it running. One hold up was software to wrap the toolpath around a cylinder, Vectric's Aspire have just released the wrapper upgrade so I am nearly ready to go.

 

[Mattty]

I didn't realise you'd made the one in your picture yourself, it's very nice indeed. I'd love to see pictures of the new one when you make it.

 

[CHJ]

1. Fix an 80mm sawtooth forstener bit in a wood lathe chuck (with extensions as required).
2. Suitable wooden cradle on bed to hold wood square on.
3. Advance with pressure of tailstock.

Alternately if large Hand drill is available a considerable reduction in effort required can be achieved by stepping up the hole sizes from smaller sawtooth bits.

Start with largest size until enough land produced to keep final sized drill in line, then bore out centre in stages, that way the largest drill only requires a much lower force to cut.

Same applies using lathe method, as long as as there is enough finished starting hole land to align the final bit small discrepancies in the smaller bit alignment should not be a problem.

 

[big soft moose]

I really like the design, but I think it's a tall order and I really can't think of a simple way to do it. Even with big machinery, I can't imagine how it would be done.

The only 80mm cutters I can find are from questionable sources. Famaag, Clico, etc all seem to stop at 50mm

What about using a smaller drill bit to drill lots of small holes, a 50mm forstner to grunt out the bulk of the waste and then rasps to make it neat? :-k nah

toolpost do an 80mm forstner - we use one on our waymarks - but for a hole that deep id defintely do it in stages with first an auger bit then a 50mm forstner, then an 80mm to finish off

if you try and do it 80mm from scratch it will almost certainly stall the drill