Does anyone cover their lathe?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mind_the_goat":1ky4njbr said:
I have to cover my machines due to masses of condensation dripping from the RSJ's supporting the (uninsulated) roof in the garage. Never thought about condensation forming directly on the cold metal, would covering them trap any such condensation and cause even more problems? Maybe I should just avoid placing things under the beams, or insulate the roof of course.

It would help to box in the RSJs. Not difficult with timber / plasterboard or OSB, or just stick polystyrene to the metal with liquid nails. As far as the roof is concerned it would always be my first priority.

Bob
 
Teepeg":3k99ptz5 said:
I throw my old lumber jacket coats over the Lathes, and spray these and the bandsaw table with silicne releas spray ..
I personally keep anything containing silcones away from surfaces that will have contact with or provide transfer risks to wood.

Nothing worse for preventing a bond of adhesive or surface finish.
 
I have a wood and metal lathe in the same workshop and am keen that the metal lathe, being all oily, doesn't end up covered in dust.

I recently found that Riley (amongest others) make snooker table covers, with weighted corners so the cover sits nicely, out of a very complient, but tough, polythene type material. I got a 8' table cover for around a tenner, new, on eBay that did the job a treat. Obviously 4', 6', 8' amd 12' varients are also available and are much cheaper that the bespoke covers some offer.

S
 
Lons":4ivgyudk said:
It would help to box in the RSJs. Not difficult with timber / plasterboard or OSB, or just stick polystyrene to the metal with liquid nails. As far as the roof is concerned it would always be my first priority.
Bob

Thanks, hadn't thought of just doing the joists, keep thinking about the whole roof and putting it off.
 
I have a fairly large workshop (18 x 40 feet) and really do have a moisture problem. I've been intending to insulate the roof since the workshop was built but too many distractions. As others have said, I protect machinery tables with anti rust treatments and this year intend to cover the machines as well. Unheated workshops are a real pain in winter, and my dust extraction soon sucks out any heat. I just don't spend much time there when the temperature drops. And in the summer of course, there's the garden and lawns to do. No wonder I don't have much in the way of woodworking skills.

K
 
I use a 16 in. 45 Wat. electric fan on a time switch set to come on for say 15 minutes every hour during those periods of high humidity, extreme temperature changes etc. This appears to work well at very low cost. I am unsure of the theory of this practice but it seems to work. Presumably condensation is reduced when the air mass is moving?
 
Damp garage here; covers on everything. Metal surfaces pretty much rust in front of my eyes, so liberon lubricating wax used liberally too.
 
I threw an old duvet over mine today. The metal roof was dripping like a council kid's nose.
 
2013 thread but still relevant.:)

The one thing that gave me the most benefit was replacing the old asbestos type roof with clear twin wall polycarbonate. If you want to really go to town on the issue, you can get bronze tinted triple wall.

An over the top option for most people but if your roof drips condensation like most concrete sectional buildings do, then the cost may be worth it.
Just priced what mine would cost to re-do. 20' x 8' concrete sectional garage would be £300 for the roofing sheets, glazing bars, sealing tape & fixings. This presumes the 'A' frames, purlins, wallplate & gable ends are sound.
 
My workshop come van garage is not heated so all the iron topped equipment are covered with sheets which now stops condensation forming - for some reason I have most condensation forming on the tyres of the vehicle - they do say that the good ventilation is necessary to prevent condensation something I need to look at as my garage is almost a sealed container. And there's a spare blanket in the back of the van for when I need a power-nap which is getting more frequent I blame the wood dust.


You have got me started on the condensation issues - was going to improve ventilation by stripping some roof and putting vent tiles on but going to try out the roof covering lap ventilators - have ordered 10 at £ 24 will report there effect in due course, it may help someone.
 
My lathe bed is made up of a couple of large plain steel bars (Old Coronet No.1) so rusts quite easily. I try to keep it covered and keep the rails lightly oiled when I remember. It helps to keep the tailstock and rest moving smoothly when adjusting too.
 
What I find a problem is not so much the lathes, but all the small bits and pieces - wood chisels, planes, chucks, jaws etc etc. I like the idea of a heated cupboard or two for all those fiddly bits.

K
 
graduate_owner":2mz88vv3 said:
What I find a problem is not so much the lathes, but all the small bits and pieces - wood chisels, planes, chucks, jaws etc etc. I like the idea of a heated cupboard or two for all those fiddly bits.

K

My high tech. solution is an old set of Kitchen draws (melamine faced chipboard carcase) with a 7-9? watt light bulb in it running 24/7.

One draw has false 'shelf' fitted with suitable holes to locate rests, Jacobs chucks, centres etc. and bulb is located under, enough heat percolates through the rest of the structure to keep all the chucks and lathe accessories warm to the touch compared with any metalwork in the shop.

My Turning tools don't suffer from corrosion, maybe because they are higher up on internal corner, and the shop has steel framed windows that do collect condensation on cold nights.

Way back in the 1960's I had a tall tool cupboard in my garage with a 7 watt car sidelight bulb running off a transformer in the base. (spare household door and simple frame and hardboard construction) which seemed to work Ok despite having a wet vehicle housed in the there at times.
 
This thread is one that also effected me - problem rust forming on unprotected iron surfaces and in my case van and tyres !. My workshop garage has tiles roof insulated walls and insulated double garage doors and no heating until I put it on. After reading up decided to increase ventilation using brattish openers - these simply open the overlapping brattish cover. After 3 weeks I have to say it has been a good result no condensation - the first place to have condensation in my case the lower half of the van and tyres have been damp free and so have all iron surfaces and tools. So increase in ventilation has very much cured / eased my own condensation problem.
 
fred55":if2cuq5z said:
This thread is one that also effected me - problem rust forming on unprotected iron surfaces and in my case van and tyres !. My workshop garage has tiles roof insulated walls and insulated double garage doors and no heating until I put it on. After reading up decided to increase ventilation using brattish openers - these simply open the overlapping brattish cover. After 3 weeks I have to say it has been a good result no condensation - the first place to have condensation in my case the lower half of the van and tyres have been damp free and so have all iron surfaces and tools. So increase in ventilation has very much cured / eased my own condensation problem.

I think ventilation is one of the best cures for condensation.
 
mayo.mick":eyydndc9 said:
I think ventilation is one of the best cures for condensation.
I'm trying to square that vs heating.

For years I've worked out of a garage that's hole(ier) than the Pope; thin asbestos roofing, and absolutely no insulation value. I get water dripping off the underside of the roof, but also often a gale blowing through gaps in the ceiling/wall interface and doors. Loads of condensation, and a constant fight against rust.

I'm about to move into a larger space that should be much better - thick breezeblock walls, insulated roof and door. My plan was to try to introduce a bit of gentle background heating to combat condensation, but should I also be looking to try to ventilate? I had also considered adding a small dehumidifier if there were damp problems.
 
Hi Sploo - I have had a good result in my 6m x 6m workshop come garage by increasing the ventilation - sound greedy but my other double garage equally enclosed never suffers condensation this I put down to the central heating boiler being there. So its a cross between ventilation or background heating that I find stops the rust/condensation.
 
fred55":1qiiotc2 said:
Hi Sploo - I have had a good result in my 6m x 6m workshop come garage by increasing the ventilation - sound greedy but my other double garage equally enclosed never suffers condensation this I put down to the central heating boiler being there. So its a cross between ventilation or background heating that I find stops the rust/condensation.
I'm trying to think how I'd achieve that - the new garage has two walls (rear, right) underground (it's set into a garden that runs over several levels). The left wall is open to the elements, but has steel reinforcement as there's an annex on top of the garage. The door is currently a rolling shutter, though I might replace it with double doors.

I suppose I could have a vent in front (when/if I install a new front with doors), and perhaps get a vent through the ceiling at the rear; which would come through the rear wall on the annex above the garage. I assume that would then need fan(s) to pull air through, but how would you balance that vs heating on a cold day?

I.e. if it were 5 degrees outside and I were trying to keep the garage at a minimum of 10C, would you run the fan(s) for long enough to complete an air exchange, then heat and leave that air for 24 hours (then repeat)?
 
It’s really a good idea to keep them covered..one to stop rust forming..and two..to prevent dust settling on oiled parts causing unnecessary wear on moving parts
 
Lubricating wax on exposed metal surfaces and some calico dust sheets with rare earth magnets stitched into the corners for the machines, also a cheap dehumidifier running through the colder months to clear up any damp. Works for me.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top