Distressing, wood dyes and dark cracks & crevices

[andrewhcmc]

Hi,

I'm hoping I can get some advice on how to finish my first furniture woodworking project. I am making a simple refectory-style bench with new redwood timber, based on pictures of a reproduction piece I've seen. I'm looking to achieve a heavily distressed look where the main colour is a "golden oak" colour, but with the scratches, cracks and so on much darker.

I've built a scaled down sample, the steps I followed were: -
- distress the wood
- sand 60 down to 240
- apply Colron Jacobean Oak dye, immediately wipe as much as possible from surface leaving cracks well soaked
- re-sand 60-240 to remove more of the first dye from main surface
- pre-raise grain & light sanding
- 2 coats Fiddes water-based antique pine stain
- 2 coats Fiddes shellac sanding sealer
- Fiddes English Oak wax, applied with Liberon 0000 grade steel wool then buffed with cloth

I'd read on a forum somewhere that another option would be to apply the light stain first, apply 1 coat of sealer, then the dark stain followed by 2nd coat of sealer. The theory being it would be easier to wipe off the dark stain from main surface.

I was wondering if I'm on the right track with either of these processes? Also, I'm using the Colron dye because I had some lying around - would it make more sense to get a water-based dye for the dark colour as well? I've also read about people using coffee grains and even soil to rub into the cracks?

Ideally, I wanted to use oak, but nervous about making a hash of it and ruining some decent (expensive) timber!

Thanks

Andrew

 

[marcros]

I think that there are many ways to skin this cat...

I had a play with an offcut of oak, whilst doing a colour sample for a mate. It was an oiled finish, and I did both sides. On the back, I tried a bit of distressing.

(This is what I did

I would sand your timber and stain it to the main colour that you want. I would then do your distressing- I used a small drill bit to make some worm holes, dents and scratches (made by the edge of my cast iron bandsaw table) heavily rounded edges and corners where wear might occur. This was only a 3" x 3" sample, and it was purely to try a few bits out- it looked too much for a small area. I then used a teak coloured furniture wax which caught in the "defects". It was quite effeective, but the wax was too soft and it came out with a fingernail if pressed (it was a black bison paste wax, so no real surprise). If I was to do it again, i would possibly try a harder wax, something like bitumen (maybe) or (research) sealing and using a gel stain. A bit of grubbiness in the grain might help- again I like a wax to do this, but there are many alternatives.

What you are trying to replicate is years of wax collecting in the defects through polishing, and areas that have been burnished through wear (and may have got some worn in muckiness).

Can you post a link to what you are trying to make. You may need a couple more posts to be able to do links, or miss the www bit off ad I will repost it for you.

 

[andrewhcmc]

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback, I did wonder about at what stage I was doing the distressing. I've done a couple of sample panels already but I'll try some more at the weekend.

The following google search will bring up a number of sites, including the manufacturer's: "spencer refectory bench" theodore alexander.

I thought from a carpentry perspective this wouldn't be overly challenging, the finishing is the area where I'm only making guesses.

 

[marcros]

http://www.smithe.com/Theodore-Alexande ... ation.aspx

Slight amendment to all that I just wrote! I think that this is mission oak type finish. You may not get the same effect in redwood, but I am sure that you can create an equally effective and striking piece. You can see the rounded corners and where the "original" colour has worn away on the edges. Also the dings on the legs

For oak, this may be of interest

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tec ... ishes.aspx

For this, have an experiment, but I would start with a stain, then seal, and put a gel stain over the top. It might be better to try and go for an antique pine effect, rather than try to replicate oak. So look for old pine and identify the colours within it.

I would look separately for tips on staining and distressing- you may get more results. The American forums, particularly seem to like the 2 tone taining, so Finewoodworking (forum and articles) and/or Lumberjocks are worth a search.

 

[andrewhcmc]

That's a fantastic link, thanks! I've not seen or used gel stains before, I'll have to start looking. I'll also check out the sites you mention.

Cheers,

Andrew

 

[marcros]

no i havent. they are not plentiful over here, although you can get them. be interested to hear about your experiences- i have only seen them used on Norm and in books.

 

[andrewhcmc]

I've ordered some gel stain from Rutlands and will let you know how I get on...

I tried the oak finish process last night using the Colron Jacobean Oak between sealer coats, but the process of wiping the surface also removed 90% of the stain from the distressing marks. Hopefully the gel stain will wedge itself in the crevices more successfully.

Other thoughts I'm having is to be heavier on sanding the sealer on/around the distress marks or maybe diluting the 1st coat of shellac sealer by 10-15%...

 

[marcros]

are you wiping along or across the grain/defect? accross should remove less of it. That was the issue that i had with the soft wax too. not quite as bad as 90%, but it didnt set as such.

 

[andrewhcmc]

good point! I was wiping with the grain... I'll keep that in mind for the next panel, thanks

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Hi Andrew, pine is harder to age than oak but it can still be done successfully and there are many ways of going about it. The method I use is to first give it a good bashing with some instruments of torture, see below. You will have to use your own judgement as to how far you go and it is always useful to have a piece to copy, but as a general rule bash away until you think you have gone too far. keep in mind how the piece would have been used and try not to put dents and marks where it would not naturally receive them. next give it a good sanding with 150 grit then stain to about three shades darker than you want the finished colour. when your stain is dry, rub back with some '0' wire wool or scotchbright leaving it darker in the nooks and crannies and feathering it out so you do not get hard lines. Also rub through in slightly random areas to create a little depth. When you are satisfied apply a sealer coat or two. Next add a dark blackish brown all over. Strong vandyke with a little lamp black added is ideal. When this is dry repeat the rubbing back process with the wire wool and then add another sealer coat. You can repeat this process as many times as you like until you are satisfied and then finish with shellac, wax, or varnish. It can also be useful to put some dark brown, black or blue onto a short pile brush and drawer your thumb over it to flick the colour over the piece, leave some of the splashes as dots and others can be smudged.

 

[Leif]

A neighbour knew a very dodgy furniture dealer. To simulate woodworm he'd fire a shotgun at the item. In his case the idea was to make new components look antique. Do you know any hunters?

 

[andrewhcmc]

Gel stain arrived yesterday and I got to work creating another colour panel. I think I've now got exactly what I'm looking for.

The gel stain was perfect for filling in the cracks, gouges, etc from the distressing.

Thanks for the tips on layering the stains and using steel wool to rub through and lighten the 'worn' areas. I'm confident now I can get the look I'm aiming for...just got to get started on the carpentry now!

Leif - I think I'd get my funding stopped by the missus if my next tool purchase was a shotgun!!! Interesting technique though...

 

[marcros]

Any chance of some pics of your sample panels?

 

[andrewhcmc]

Sure, I'll post a couple tonight.

 

[andrewhcmc]

Here's a couple of photos of the colour panels...

 

[marcros]

I like that effect. Well done