fantaglub":sbw5whtw said:
The problem with the sliding table is it can be slightly inaccurate because of the many parts of it that sometimes get loose or so... I dont know exactly the reasons, I dont have such a saw but it's something I read often with sliding tables.
with the deft, you have almost the same sliding table function with a panel cutting sled that uses the miter track as a guide.
Can't say I agree with you there. Anything sliding in a mitre-gauge slot (t-slot) will be "slightly" (how do you define slightly?) inaccurate as it must have a little play in order to slide. How much or little play will depend on the length of the piece that runs in the slot and how accurately it was machined.
By contrast, a proper sliding table, properly set-up, should have zero (as far as woodworking tolerances are concerned) play as it runs on precision bearings and rails. The table on my SICAR combi will produce a cut with less than 0.4mm difference over the length of a 500mm piece (max length of cut), not bad for a 25 year old machine that I've only setup with a set-square and straight-edge (I will buy or borrow a DTI at some point and set it properly).
You do have to maintain machines and check/reset alignment from time to time.
The Casadei panel saw at work manages less than 1mm over a 3 metre length (6m sliding table). Ok, that's 10k worth of machine, but it's in daily use and rarely needs adjusting.
Sliding tables seem to be a love-it/hate-it thing...
In my opinion, they're not just a useful form of cutting guide, but an essential safety feature. Right hand on the toolpost or trailing edge of the table, left hand holding the workpiece against the table fence (even if it's clamped) or on the leading edge of the table or clamping piece if a small piece, no hands anywhere near the blade and no risk of hands going anywhere near the blade even if you should trip. The table rails further prevent you from standing in or moving into the region behind the blade, so there is less risk from a kickback. Finally, if the piece is clamped to the sliding table there is much less chance of it going flying even if a kickback should occur, generally the worst that happens is that the table is shunted back towards you a bit. Some machines even have a brake to prevent the table moving backwards in this situation.
They're by no means perfect, in particular they tend to get in the way when ripping, or generally when cutting pieces longer than the table's travel, but these are small downsides in my opinion and generally overcome without too much difficulty (though you might have to check the table alignment after removing and replacing it).
I certainly am very apprehensive about making any cuts without the sliding table and generally look for another way to do the job if possible, just doesn't feel as safe.
RE the photo: Crown guard? Riving knife? Hold-downs? Where will you be if the workpiece kicks back?
