DC's ruler trick with a LV MKII honing guide ...

[Benchwayze]

I was thinking of trying this 'back-bevel' idea on an old plane I am fettling. :-k But each time I try to put the bevel on the blade, I am gripped by a strange paralysis.

I can only describe it as the kind of reluctance I would feel towards using a hammer on the wooden handles of a chisel. It just doesn't seem the right thing to do to a beatifully honed plane-iron.
I appreciate that the back bevel is small, but why go to all the trouble of achieving a mirror finish on the back of the iron, only to undo the work by turning the cutting-edge into one that you'd find on a cold-chisel? :?

Maybe I am a dinosaur, but I need to be convinced, before I try it.


John

 

[Paul Chapman]

I need to be convinced, before I try it.

It reduces tear-out so you only need to use it if that's what you are getting. Best if you have two blades - one honed normally and one with a back bevel which you can pop into your plane when you need it. Or you could use a scraper instead, then you need not do it at all......

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[gidon]

John
Not sure if you're talking about a real back bevel - or the DC ruler trick which is not trying to create a back bevel per se but ensuring the blade is polished in just the right place (creating a small back bevel :?)? Either way - if you make it very small and it makes no difference, you can always grind it away .
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Gidon,

Here are some more photos, as promised.

On the left is an Eclipse jig and on the right a modified one. The two pieces of thin aluminium were fixed on with superglue

The normal way of holding a bevel edge chisel in the jig is to grip it in the two grooves. However, the way the bevels are ground on the sides of bevel edge chisels varies a lot so this method of gripping gives variable and unsatisfactory results (ie the chisels don't fit in the slots at all well)

With the modified jig this problem is overcome because the flat side of the blade is registered against the underside of the aluminium and the sides of the chisel are gripped by the sides of the jig (not the grooves)

In order to fit narrower chisels, I will have to file down the pieces of aluminium or I might make another one with narrower pieces and keep this one for wider chisels.

Hope this helps

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dennis]

Paul

Could you not fashion some packers to go either side of a narrow chisel.

Dennis

 

[Paul Chapman]

Paul

Could you not fashion some packers to go either side of a narrow chisel.

Dennis

Possibly - but I guess you would have too many bits to hold and not enough hands :lol: Rob (Woodbloke) has made his so that it takes quite narrow chisels and it works well, so I think filing down the aluminium pieces is the best way.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[gidon]

Many thanks Paul - might just have to try that ...
Cheers
Gidon

 

[woodbloke]

After having got back on line again after having been dumped by AOHell a few days ago...Pauls pic is a good one. Those two bits of aluminium are epoxied and screwed in place. Note also that the body of the guide has been filed away to accommodate chisels...I can go down to 6mm but the smallest size has to be done in a grimmer way :wink: . Because the chisels sit lower in the guide than a plane blade (wot sits on top) the registration distances on the 'bench hook' for each are considerably different:

I use a honed angle of 30 deg on the LN chisels and BD planes (with a 32 deg micro-bevel as seen in the pic) and you can see from the pic that there's about a 6mm difference in the registration distance for a 30deg set - Rob

 

[ivan]

You can easily bend the clamp bar on the Mk 2 Veritas guide with the standard brass knobs! Jap chisels are difficult as the back is hand forged and not // to the polished side. Once bent, the clamp bar will grip less well requiring more pressure.... I straightened mine but a repeat effort might break it, so I use the Kell for Jap chisels, grips very well but not comfortable to grind as very short extension.

The new Tormek straight jig also grips well but does have the advantage of blade-side registration; the veritas wouldn't like this so much, blade really needs to be ~ central.

 

[jonbikebod]

II can only describe it as the kind of reluctance I would feel towards using a hammer on the wooden handles of a chisel.


John

I am with you on that John having restored many old blades to flatness that had this feature due to curved oil stones (I always believed), so know it takes a entirely disproportionate amount of metal removal to get back to square one. I took the bevel up route and have never looked back.
Jon.

 

[Harbo]

I see Bridge City have brought out a new honing guide with a single bolt holding mechanism (similar to Veritas Mk I's?)

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/HG-1+Honing+Guide+and+SUG-1+Set-Up+Gauge+Bundle

Rod

 

[Paul Chapman]

It looks good, Rod, and has some nice features but I reckon it would still struggle with bevel edge chisels - and, blimey, it costs more than a Wenzloff saw :shock:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[lurker]

Bloody **** Rod!
My eyes are watering
I'll stick to my eclipse clone I think

 

[gidon]

Yikes that's pricey.
Thanks Rob - glad you're back online .
Cheers
Gidon