DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

[Sheptonphil]

The lesson here is don't listen to Phil. :lol: Start at the bottom and work up using battens. Oddly, exactly as you're supposed to do it.

Now, to qualify that, I did say with mine I had the ceiling joists to work off. I was standing between the rafters on boards on the ceiling joists, It was really easy. Now, if I’d had the rafters closed off with OSB and insulation, I would have worked from the bottom and laid battens to work off. :?

As for carrying the tiles at the eaves, mine sit directly on ventilation stripsattached on top the fascia boards. This gives me ventilation between membrane and tile from eaves to ridge and ridge to other side eaves, as cembrit is considered a close fitting roof covering. As mike said, it’s a case of two pieces of batten and a slate to see where the finished height line point is for the fascia.

The bottom courses for fibre tiles are recommended as a tile cut 245 and 355 to give a double bottom row, then covered with the first full tile, all lined up at the gutter overhang. So at the eaves there is actually three layers of tile for 255mm.

Using a tile sideways doesn’t give any where to put the copper rivets to secure the uppermost tile at the eaves, and the space taken up by a two tiles is 610mm with the gapping, and a tile sideways is 600. They will go out of centre line without nudging them across a bit each time.

 

[flying haggis]

If you want surface mounted boxes that's great. If you want flush lines why not take the opportunity to sort it now? I'd allow twice as many sockets as I thought I'd need and run it all behind the walls. If nothing else it won't gather dust like conduits.
Just a suggestion! Don't mean to 'bully'! Sorry! Your shed!

although flush fitted sockets are nicer to look at and dont protrude as much , it will be harder to alter in the future if necessary. but if you do go for flush a; leave a loop of cable between sockets then if you want to add another socket etc there will be enough slack to do it and b; if you are running cable in the wall with insulation in the cct may need derating as the insulation wont allow any heat build up to dissapate

 

[DBT85]

Blowing a gale today and in a funk so not doing anything on the build for today. Trying to wrap my head around this and all I'm getting is annoyed with myself.

OK then, the same as slates in terms of setting out. You'll need an extra batten at the bottom to pick up the eaves course (that can be a slate turned 90 degrees). The bottom row of slates (on the eaves course) must sit in line (co-planar) with all the rest of the roof (in other words, don't let them sag, and you don't kick up the bottom row like you do with plain tiles)......and sits on the top of the fascia. So you'll find yourself standing at the eaves balancing 2 or 3 tiles and off cuts of battens in one hand, and a scrap of fascia in the other whilst you work out the fascia height. If in doubt, raise it 3 or 4 mm. Much better to err that way that to let them sag.

I think I understand. As Phil notes, with the cement tiles they advise just using 1 tile cut not quite in half for the first 2 courses which all sit under the first full course so I know I need another batten to support those, but wasn't sure where the end of them is supported. It just didn't jive with my mind that we've left this drape all the way down between the rafters but then at the bottom the tiles just sit on the membrane on top of the fascia board.

Basically the top of the fascia needs to be high enough for the tiles that sit on top of it to be co planar with the rest of the tiles which are supported on battens.

If you want surface mounted boxes that's great. If you want flush lines why not take the opportunity to sort it now? I'd allow twice as many sockets as I thought I'd need and run it all behind the walls. If nothing else it won't gather dust like conduits.
Just a suggestion! Don't mean to 'bully'! Sorry! Your shed!

I could do it now, but at least with conduit it's always accessible. As I said in Phils thread I do actually prefer the wiring to be in the walls and not surface mounted. One one side its a cleaner finish but you really want to get all your sockets in first time out as hacking through the OSB and trying to run more in later will be a pain in the backside. Then there's the faff with fitting boxes into the insulation, chasing holes in the insulation for the cables etc.

No bullying felt at all don't worry!

Now, to qualify that, I did say with mine I had the ceiling joists to work off. I was standing between the rafters on boards on the ceiling joists, It was really easy. Now, if I’d had the rafters closed off with OSB and insulation, I would have worked from the bottom and laid battens to work off. :?

As for carrying the tiles at the eaves, mine sit directly on ventilation stripsattached on top the fascia boards. This gives me ventilation between membrane and tile from eaves to ridge and ridge to other side eaves, as cembrit is considered a close fitting roof covering. As mike said, it’s a case of two pieces of batten and a slate to see where the finished height line point is for the fascia.

I was only jesting to be fair. And may have missed that salient point about you standing on the joists

So you closed off the eaves like Mike any myself did and then fitted the ventilation strips?

Hadn't looked into this side of it at all.

 

[MikeG.]

......Basically the top of the fascia needs to be high enough for the tiles that sit on top of it to be co planar with the rest of the tiles which are supported on battens.......l.

Precisely.

You've no need for over fascia vents. That's for a different roof type altogether.

 

[DBT85]

So there's no issue with the membrane being pinned between tile and fascia? As Phil said they are so smooth and flat they don't have the same kind of ventilation as slates offer.

 

[MikeG.]

Directly under and behind the fascia is a big open void, open to the air. A fascia vent would serve no porpoise.

 

[DBT85]

I understand a fascia vent doing nothing. I just don't understand why I can just pin the membrane between the tiles and the fascia.

Anyway, glad I got those battens on the roof. The wind today has been bad enough to take the membrane off the wall that I'd just temporarily stapled on to offer a little protection. Fortunately not all around. I'm going to have so much spare it won't matter that this bit now has holes in.

 

[Sheptonphil]

......Basically the top of the fascia needs to be high enough for the tiles that sit on top of it to be co planar with the rest of the tiles which are supported on battens.......l.

Precisely.

You've no need for over fascia vents. That's for a different roof type altogether.

I have a cold roof with closed in fascia. No ventilation going past eaves other than the vent strips.

 

[DBT85]

Well after the most of the weekend off I cracked on again this morning.

First up was to get the walls insulated. I already had enough insulation here so it just needed trimming to width on the tabel saw and then cutting to length to fit around the noggins. I did the easy walls first, the long side with no windows and the doorless gable end.

Next up was the door side and I just about managed to fix the last bit in place before my lunchtime pizza was served at 1:40.

Pizza and Coke consumed it was time to get the window wall sorted. While I didn't quite go to the extremes that Steve Maskery went to using offcuts, I did manage to end with no big bits left over. A few skinny offcuts were used here and there where it made sense.

With that all in I marked a chalk line 1450mm up from the bottom of the lowest plate and used that as the top of my 1500mm membrane. I left it on the roll and just went round 3 sides without stopping all the way to the door. I took that end inside for now and then just used a small bit to finish off. I was getting there and it hadn't been horrible despite the gale blowing all day. This was helped by it still being on the large roll.

The remaining uncovered area on the long sides was exactly half the width of the membrane so I reeled off 7.5m, rolled it back onto the tube from the other roll and then marked it halfway and cut it with the saw. Easy. Then I could tack it on without too much fuss on the long sides, the tops around the rafter feet need finishing off.

Then The fun of a 5x 1.5m section blowing all over the place as I secured it across the door end. That was less fun on a ladder and with it billowing everywhere.

Thats where I ended for the day. First thing tomorrow I can get the rest covered and then sort the details. I've not tacked it all the way to the bottom as I might yet still do the half batten wedge wrapped in DPC on top of the bricks.

 

[DBT85]

It looks less impressive today but a bunch of bits got sorted.

I finally chopped the ends off my ridge while sitting astride it, once complete I could get the last of the membrane on and tuck it under the roof membrane on the gable rafters.

With those two sails fitted in yet another gale I neatened up the membrane around the rafter feet before cutting up some batten on the table saw to use as my arris wrapped in DPC. For the first time in a few weeks I can see my brickwork properly!

And that was basically that. I started a bit of tidying inside the workshop itself as it basically just sawdust, membrane and OSB offcuts and tools sprawled everywhere.

My wife says my erection looks much less impressive when covered in plastic.



Stop it.

 

[flying haggis]

looking good, give yourself a well deserved pat on the back

 

[DBT85]

Forgot this one from yesterday. Nmpty

Today I'll finalyl sort the roof battens out and then work how short I am for the walls.I need to get mroe timber for the fascias and stuff so I need to get on that today as I can't really do much more to the outside without corner bits for the walls or fascia for the tiles to sit on. I think I have 1 length so I could get started.

I suppose next I'll have to make a door. Never made a door before. welp.

 

[MikeG.]

......Never made a door before. welp.

You've never made a workshop before either. That turned out OK, and so will the door.

 

[DBT85]

It's absolutely bucketing down here so maybe I'll find something to do that isn't crawling on the roof.

......Never made a door before. welp.

You've never made a workshop before either. That turned out OK, and so will the door.

Yes but you don't have a useful thread on making workshop doors!

 

[Fitzroy]

I hadn’t either when I made my door and it’s fine, yes I can see light around it and the rain gets in when it blows from the east but it keeps the thieves out.

Actually that’s all a lie my door is great although way too big, I should have taken advice and made two narrow ones not one huge one!

With your skills and thoughtful approach you’ll nail it.

Fitz.

 

[DBT85]

Thanks Fitz!

At the moment I'm having an issue trying to source screws to hold the ridge tiles on so lets not get ahead of ourselves :lol:

Roofing superstore say that the cembrit sela screws are currently discontinued due to covid 19. Can't even find them on any other website let alone attempt to buy some.

 

[flying haggis]

It's absolutely bucketing down here so maybe I'll find something to do that isn't crawling on the roof.

......Never made a door before. welp.

You've never made a workshop before either. That turned out OK, and so will the door.

Yes but you don't have a useful thread on making workshop doors!

steve maskery does on his workshop build pages, might take time find though as his is over 130 pages
(edit..double doors making on page 133 onwards, cant find the single door making pages)

 

[Sheptonphil]

Thanks Fitz!

At the moment I'm having an issue trying to source screws to hold the ridge tiles on so lets not get ahead of ourselves :lol:

Roofing superstore say that the cembrit sela screws are currently discontinued due to covid 19. Can't even find them on any other website let alone attempt to buy some.

I used these, worked perfect with predrilled 6mm holes.

Screwfix Tec screws.
From Marley

 

[DBT85]

steve maskery does on his workshop build pages, might take time find though as his is over 130 pages
(edit..double doors making on page 133 onwards, cant find the single door making pages)

Thanks Haggis.

I can imagine without even looking that Steves doors are probably way above anything I've built before Probably with Half dangle flap laps and double bolted flange goobers.

 

[DBT85]

Well half of the roof it battened apart from the last bits right at the ridge. Just taking stock of what I have and what I'll need so I can see if I can get a delivery in any reasonable time frame.

Anyway, the unvented Cembrit ridge tiles I have here have a hole in them just like this one. Its about 1/3 the way along the ridge.

I can't fathom why, as they are supposed to be secured 75mm up from the bottom edge with 2 screws on each edge.

Any ideas?