Cutting thin stips on the TS?

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wizer

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Hi guys.

I want to run 15mm strips from 145mm wide board. Is there an easier way then moving the fence each time, allowing for the saw blade? In an ideal world i'd prefer not to have to run them through the thicknesser after.

TIA
 
Well I would set the fence at 15mm, set the blade as low as possible for a full cut and not more, possibly fit a featherboard onto the fence and push them through. Pop the board over the jointer between cuts to get one good edge.
Despite your comments, I'd also thickness after but that is up to you.

However, seeing your recent sled building work and material holding methods I guess that would not suit your working preferences.

Bob
 
One method requires the use of a jig which I have drawn below :)

The jig (X) is used on the right side of the sawblade (S) and runs against the fence (F). The wood you are cutting is pushed through on the lip and is pushed clear beyond the blade. The jig requires a handle (H) to help you push through.

WWWWWW S WW XXXXXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXXXXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXHHXX F
WWWWWW S WW XXXXXX F
WWWWWW S XXXXXXXXXX F
WWWWWW S XXXXXXXXXX F


I am sure that is clear as mud.

Regards

D
 
I asked the same question a while back and Noel posted this solution. I built one and it works brilliantly. I think it is pretty much what Dudester was recommending but the picture Noel posted makes it a bit clearer, all you need to do is to adjust the fearher board between cuts.I guess whether you need to use a planer or thicknesser will depend on the ultimate use you have for the thin strips and tha accuracy and finish you need.
 
George_N":264e8530 said:
I asked the same question a while back and Noel posted this solution. I built one and it works brilliantly. I think it is pretty much what Dudester was recommending but the picture Noel posted makes it a bit clearer, all you need to do is to adjust the fearher board between cuts.I guess whether you need to use a planer or thicknesser will depend on the ultimate use you have for the thin strips and tha accuracy and finish you need.

A picture is worth far more than an assortment of letters. Same idea.

Regards

D
 
Hi WiZeR

I would go with the "Strips sled"...just set the "Pusher" to 16~20mm, it will be cut at the first pass.

13.jpg



14.jpg


I don't use Feather board but instead, kind of "Feather roller" like this one

16.jpg


Or like this one

004.jpg


Regards
niki
 
9fingers":16renmyf said:
However, seeing your recent sled building work and material holding methods I guess that would not suit your working preferences.

Not sure what that comment means Bob?

I'd prefer to do it your way actually, to save time building a jig. I may try it and see how my nerve holds.

Thanks everyone else. Noel's jig does look simple enough to construct.
 
I did about 22 meter of 2 cm strips for the doors this weekend, and i did them on the table saw, (yes in between the blade and the fence

About the blade low, just watch out that the would doesn'r ride on the blade.

So a featherboard to push down is important, then you need a good push stick

Also the longer the wood the easier it is, but make sure you have proper support at the outfeed table, Rollers are the best

The most important thing when doing these repititve jobs is not to stare at your work, keep consentrated, stay cool 8)
 
WiZeR":16dryxeb said:
9fingers":16dryxeb said:
However, seeing your recent sled building work and material holding methods I guess that would not suit your working preferences.

Not sure what that comment means Bob?

I'd prefer to do it your way actually, to save time building a jig. I may try it and see how my nerve holds.

Thanks everyone else. Noel's jig does look simple enough to construct.

Hi Wizer,
I owe you an apology. I was mixing you up with another forum member who built a TS Sled recently. Sorry about that. I'll ask Nurse to up the medication immediately.

I don't think you will need excess nerve. If you can stand sideways to the saw, facing the fence, once most of the cut is done, with a sacrificial push stick in your right hand and pulling the wanted piece through with your left hand and letting the board look after itself, you should be able to get good width consistency over the whole cut.

Good luck

Bob

Bob
 
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