Cutting small trim

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Bumble

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Hokkaido, Japan
I'm on box making practice and using construction waste. It's some sort of decorative cladding and when I cut off the tongue, I'm cleaning it up to reuse on the box lids.

Box lid design no 2.JPG


I was using a small block plane but struggled to get a uniform cut so am now using the router first to get a flat surface, fixing down the piece with tape and CA.

small trim.JPG


It was about minus seven degrees in the workshop this morning and CA was failing (not setting) and I was wondering if there was a better solution. How would you cut this?

I am also having difficulty with getting a good 45 degree cut leading to small gaps/bad fits. I'm taping the pieces down in a scrap wood cradle and after scoring first with a knife putting it under the mitre saw or using the hand saw but think this maybe should be a job for a plane. How do I get a clean and accurate 45 degree cut on 4mm trim?

Thank you for any help and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all!
:)
 
Last edited:
Hi Bumble
The dovetails are looking nice and neat 👍
I sorry I cannot help with the issue you have raised.I

I hope it's okay to highlight this point but if you are adding lipping to end grain it will soon fail when the warmer /dryer weather arrives and the wood shrinks.

An alternative could be to use your router to shape the top edges.
Happy New Year to you as well.

Fred
 
Hi there , 1st off at -7 I don’t know of any glue that won’t have issues. 2nd is your mitre saw set up correctly and or adjustable? 3rd could you cut your piece's slightly longer then use a low angle block plane in conjunction with a shooting board to plane to the final dimension. A little practice and some accurate marking out will go a long way towards your goal .. @Fred48 makes a good point about the lipping as again -5 or -7 will always be problematic.. good luck .
 
Gents saw and a shooting board for something that small.

And a little jig for your blockplain will help getting even thickness. Block of wood with a fence on either side to set the thickness.
 
Thank you all for the advice; I have plenty to think about and now I'm pointed in the right direction!

I will rethink the box design so the lipping is not to end grain.

I will try making a shooting board so I can plane/shave down to the correct length and also make a jig for the block plane so I can get uniform thickness on the trim.
 
Hi Bumble, a 45 degree shooting board is ideal for shooting those mitres, it's sometimes called a donkeys ear.
As for the superglue failing, just use a double-sided tape. I've never really understood the benefit of gluing two pieces of tape together?
Regards Mark
 

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