Cunning idea needed

[Kittyhawk]

In my aircraftery I make simple joints in small pieces of timber that are glued together with epoxy adhesive. I use masking tape on either side of the glue line in an effort to make the clean up easier after the epoxy has set hard. Masking tape works but not so well - the adhesive still creeps under the tape especially where there is an overlap in the tape due to change of angle etc and its difficult to apply to curved parts.
What I need is some sort of easily removable protective coating, wax, film or whatever that I can put on in the vicinity of the joint that will prevent the excess epoxy from sticking where its not wanted. Any ideas please?

 

[Bigegg]

thin coating of hot glue?

 

[Jameshow]

Candle wax / beeswax???

 

[AES]

Maybe, if possible, don't use masking tape at all, but use Acetone (on a cotton bud in tight spaces) to remove the epoxy before it sets. I've found Acetone a good epoxy remover (before it sets), but it MAY stain the wood (in my stuff I'm always painting after glue up - toys, etc). Worth a try on a piece of scrap? Dunno.

 

[pe2dave]

Masking 'paint'? When masking for spraying, I've used sheets, but seen a 'paint' that goes on with a brush and peels off?
Sorry, unable to find a link.

 

[Gordon Tarling]

Not sure what masking tape you're using, but I've used Tamiya masking tape for glue masking in the past and it's always worked well, as long as you remove it while the epoxy is still soft - leave it until the epoxy is hard and you'll get a VERY ragged edge. Other brands might not work so well. There's also liquid masks available, though I've never tried them with any type of glue.

G.

 

[pe2dave]

Thanks @Gordon Tarling - I thought someone would have used it!

 

[JobandKnock]

Masking 'paint'? When masking for spraying, I've used sheets, but seen a 'paint' that goes on with a brush and peels off?
Sorry, unable to find a link.

It's used by signwriters, Dave, there used to be a product called Maskol - now made by Humbrol (but don't think it was originally). Takens also makes a lquid masking - available on Amazon

 

[Kittyhawk]

Maybe, if possible, don't use masking tape at all, but use Acetone (on a cotton bud in tight spaces)

I tried acetone but it seems that you have to get the timing exactly right - too soon and it affects the glue and it goes tacky and doesn't harden. Wait to long and it smears the glue onto the surrounding timber and discolours it. I use a teak oil finish so not so good.

It's used by signwriters, Dave, there used to be a product called Maskol - now made by Humbrol (but don't think it was originally). Takens also makes a lquid masking - available on Amazon

Exactly what I need. Thank you. Will see what I can get down here in NZ.

 

[JobandKnock]

Mis-spelled it, Dave, it is "Talens" not Takens. Look for a firm supplying One-Shot signwriter's lacquer and they'll probably be able to supply something along the same lines

 

[pe2dave]

Amazon have lots, masking fluid.

 

[AES]

I've also heard (and even used sometimes) "Masking Fluid" Kittyhawk. I THINK it was branded Revell (the US plastic kits people). From the little I "know", the stuff I tried was more or less thinned PVA wood glue. It worked fine for me (i.e. on joints that would be painted afterwards), but again with your requirement for polished/waxed real wood finish I'm far from sure it would be OK for you (staining). But I see that the one that pe2dave linked to on Amazon is described as being made of "latex (etc)". Maybe worth a punt?

Another thought, again probably of little use to you, but worth a try(?), especially on bigger joints with aerodynamic fairing/s like wing to fuselage - mix some sawdust with the epoxy and although get as much squeeze out off as possible before it dries hard, don't worry about any small amounts remaining 'cos it'll be the same colour as the parent wood - even if you have to give a final touch up with sand paper. As said, dunno really, sorry (though I don't really like painting, at least it does save one from worries like yours)

 

[Richard_C]

Some thoughts.

I find masking tape varies a lot by brand so just trying another one might help. I don't use it often enough to remember which works best.
Car customisers use special masking tape, called detailing tape or precision tape, because it gived good clean lines.
I wonder if ordinary sellotape or the more flexible 'invisible' variant might work. Thinner than masking tape and edges very crisp.
How about clear nail varnish as a paint on mask, dries quickly and removed by acetone or nail varnish remover.

 

[Jacob]

Use a different glue? You don't need super strength glues for model building.
The obvious one would be hide glue which is easy to wash off

 

[Jake]

You can get peelable rubber paints for protecting surfaces during renovations. I used Protec Peelguard to protect fireplace surrounds during replastering/repainting etc - could only find it in a massive and expensive tub at the time though, and there might be cheaper on the market now as it was 3-4 years ago.

 

[Fergie 307]

For painting details on cars or motorcycles you can buy a very narrow tape, a few mm wide. Allows you to follow sharp curves etc without overlap. This provides your edge, then use regular tape to finish masking up. Most places will probably call it lining tape.

 

[clogs]

Fergie 307...the tape u mean is called "fine edge".....comes in various widths.....
just ask at an automotive paint store...quite cheap.....

 

[kinverkid]

Masking 'paint'? When masking for spraying, I've used sheets, but seen a 'paint' that goes on with a brush and peels off?
Sorry, unable to find a link.

I've used masking paint when airbrushing. I noticed that it smells like liquid latex. So, I'm wondering if that might work because it would be a cheaper alternative.

 

[Auldfart2010]

artist liquid mask

 

[RobTy]

Blutack (or Whitetack) might work well for this. Simple + cheap option.

Used often in scale modeling to mask 3d surfaces pre painting.

Just test a bit beforehand to check it doesnt go into the grain.