Crackin Oak Vase Gromit......

[Dickymint]

Sympathy required and kindly received for my first oak turning.

Started out as a nice oak vase, first small crack appeared then, arghhhhh more cracks than a crazy paving patio.

Oh well, It looked OK for a short while....... :roll:

Dicky Mint

 

[Bean]

Ohh No #-o

Bean

 

[CHJ]

Sympathy sent.

Obviously not as dry as it appeared.

If in doubt about a piece of wood try placing it in a plastic bag for a few hours in a warm room and check for moisture, even zap it on defrost in the microwave for a few seconds and check for steam or damp patches.

 

[gwaithcoed]

People will say it's part of the learning curve, but it 's still a bummer.

Better luck next time

Alan.

 

[trevtheturner]

Shame, DM, that that has happened. Apart from the possible moisture content of the wood the very varied grain patterns lead me to think that a variety of stresses within the wood may have been released as the 'waste' was turned away, and these manifested themselves in the splits as the piece dried further after turning. Was the wood 'wet' when you started?

Why not leave the piece now for a while to fully settle, then use a copper or brass, or a coloured resin, filler to fill the cracks as a 'design' feature?

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[Dickymint]

Thanks for the comments posted.

Ignorance leads to interesting results!

The oak was fairly wet when turned I mistakenly thought that with several coats of oil and wax applied immediately after turning would have slowed the drying process. I have subsequently turned another wet oak log and this time left it in the garage, it too has suffered the same huge longitudinal splits........Hmmm so, does stressed out wood need time to chill? :lol: I think I'll leave the oak alone for a bit. :!:

CHJ, the placky bag test sounds like a real good idea, thanks for that steer. Your turnings' portfolio is truly awsome.

TTT, I don't think the UK Copper and Brass reserves are that big and I wouldn't want to create a world shortage! Now, where's my kindling axe?

I have recently acquired some "just felled" Silver Birch, would that be a more suitable species for a wet turning? Tips would be gratefully received.

As you may have guessed my wood pile is pretty young!

Bye for now.

Dicky Mint.

 

[CHJ]

I have recently acquired some "just felled" Silver Birch, would that be a more suitable species for a wet turning? Tips would be gratefully received.

Dicky Mint.

You need to research Methylated Spirit drying of your Birch.

If you do that you could have Rough Blanks dry enough for finish inside 18 days or so.

See this thread for starters. and the link to Dave Smith Method

The latest Hazel (214-215) in my gallery was harvested three weeks ago.

 

[Wanlock Dod]

DM,

I have a book on turning green wood, which seems to recommend turning the walls very thin, so that they will warp rather than split. Obviously you don't end up with a nice round thing at the end though.

He doesn't seem to mention oak as a prefered or recommended timber though as far as I can tell.

The filling suggestion sounds good, although it could be a bit tricky to stop it from all oozing out on the inside. Perhaps there is a special trick for this.

Dod

 

[CHJ]

I have a book on turning green wood, which seems to recommend turning the walls very thin, so that they will warp rather than split. Obviously you don't end up with a nice round thing at the end though.

If they are suitably rustic and a reasonable size so that they maintain a natural look they can be attractive, but if this sort of thing happens, then to me, they are no more than an oddball conversation piece.

 

[Dickymint]

Thank you for your advice.

Given the lack of ongoing discussion & viewing CHJ hazel turnings, it looks as though the dye has little or no effect on the colour of the wood?

I'm putting on my dirty old mac and now off to by a bottle of meths.

Has any one got an over 18 ID card?

Dicky Mint

 

[CHJ]

Given the lack of ongoing discussion & viewing CHJ hazel turnings, it looks as though the dye has little or no effect on the colour of the wood?

On pale woods such as Birch and Hazel you can see a slight colour cast of the dye substance (trapped?) on the outside of the rough blank but this does not seem to penetrate the wood to any significant depth.

Young Ash and Cherry are not very co-operative with this method for some reason in my experience to date. I will be trying again with those, endeavoring to extend the drying period.