Coping saw

[Jacob]

What's wrong with it? They are so simple I can't imagine how they could get it wrong.

 

[Andy Kev.]

This is a good one.

https://www.dictum.com/en/coping-saws-b ... -75-712548

It's robust, does the business and takes Pegas blades. There might be a bigger size as well.

Mine serves me well. The only near fault I can find is that I'd prefer it if it had a wooden handle.

 

[MikeG.]

Mine was from the £1 bargain bin at my local independent DIY shop 30 years ago. Like any tool, you use it within its limitations and its fine, but go outside those limitations and it doesn't work so well. Which isn't a problem for a tool whose only jobs are tiny, and about waste removal rather than getting to a fine finish. I really can't see the point on spending any serious money on a coping saw..........That'd be like buying a gold plated Stanley knife and thinking you've got a better tool than the next man. A coping saw is a coping saw.

 

[Racers]

Thats not a coping saw, is a coping saw...

fb79d239-bad4-4be7-9998-361aea6b3aee_zpszlpaydwq by pete maddex, on Flickr

And it does this.
DSC_0194 by pete maddex, on Flickr

You can get the blade ping tight which is where the other coping saws go wrong IMHO.

Pete

 

[Doug71]

I've got an eclipse that is lovely and a disston that is even sturdier but not as pretty. I had a stanley fatmax and it was dire!

I have the fatmax [PERSEVERING FACE]

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Useless isn't it, I wouldn't even give it away, I don't hate anyone that much :lol:

I bought one and threw it in the bin first time I used it.

What's wrong with it? They are so simple I can't imagine how they could get it wrong.

The frame isn't strong enough, it just bends/flexes when you tighten the blade meaning you can't get enough tension on it, not fit for purpose.

 

[ED65]

Coping saw in handy for everything not just dovetail joints and all timber workers should have one

Yup. That's why I have two Actually I have two because they cost less than a posh coffee, thank the car boot gods.

For anyone who's interested the second brand I have is a G-Man from Sweden. Won't win any beauty awards with most folks as it has a plastic handle but I find it very comfortable and the saw tensions the blade nicely which is the main thing. Well worth taking a punt on if you ever spot one secondhand.

Paring doesn't come into it, not least because you don't need a pared surface - they are all out of sight.

Jacob, if you can't see the need for any paring in dovetail work then none of us can help you.

Coping saw is a bit like drilling out mortices - it looks a good idea but in reality doesn't help and may hinder.

I'd agree with your last point here, but with a firm emphasis on may. That is not to say it doesn't help, it most definitely can. And not only for the amateur who chops out mortises infrequently. Plenty of pros do it at least some of the time, evidently they think the technique has value; and actually the method goes back to before electric drills so no 'modern fad' accusations please.

So like anything, different strokes for different folks.

 

[MikeG.]

.........

Coping saw is a bit like drilling out mortices - it looks a good idea but in reality doesn't help and may hinder.

I'd agree with your last point here, but with a firm emphasis on may. That is not to say it doesn't help, it most definitely can. And not only for the amateur who chops out mortises infrequently. Plenty of pros do it at least some of the time, evidently they think the technique has value; and actually the method goes back to before electric drills so no 'modern fad' accusations please........

You can't really do timber framing work without drilling out the mortices first. Making a 3 inch wide mortice without pre-drilling would be a real task. I have opened out 700+ year old mortices in oak framing and found drill marks in the bottom, so if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for me. It wouldn't be the first time that Jacob has been absolutist, and over-generalised.

 

[transatlantic]

Thanks for the feedback. I've ordered an Eclipse 70-CP1R and some Pegas blades.

I would much rather drill out most of the waste from my mortices. For me personally, it helps as an aid to keep my chiseling straight, and after drilling, I can use normal chisels with light mallet operations.

 

[Jacob]

.........

Coping saw is a bit like drilling out mortices - it looks a good idea but in reality doesn't help and may hinder.

I'd agree with your last point here, but with a firm emphasis on may. That is not to say it doesn't help, it most definitely can. And not only for the amateur who chops out mortises infrequently. Plenty of pros do it at least some of the time, evidently they think the technique has value; and actually the method goes back to before electric drills so no 'modern fad' accusations please........

You can't really do timber framing work without drilling out the mortices first. Making a 3 inch wide mortice without pre-drilling would be a real task. I have opened out 700+ year old mortices in oak framing and found drill marks in the bottom, so if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for me. It wouldn't be the first time that Jacob has been absolutist, and over-generalised.

I'd probably agree. I'm talking about bench joiner's mortices up to 1/2". Yes - above that becomes much more difficult. In fact I've never seen above 5/8" mortice chisel of the familiar deep blade/ oval bolster shape. Do they exist or do they just become large firmers?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Screwfix used to sell "Speed" blades which were excellent, but I see now they sell Bahco and a cheaper brand- I would imagine the Bahco ones are OK, most of their stuff is.