Coping saw - push or pull?

[GLFaria]

Hi

I was always told a coping saw blade should be assembled so the saw cuts on the pull stroke. It made sense to me, as every time I tried to do it on the push stroke the blade would bend rather quickly, or even snap, no matter how much tension I put on it.

But recentely I stumbled upon an entry in Paul Sellers' Blog https://paulsellers.com/2014/02/coping-coping-saws/ where he states that coping saws should cut on the push stroke. That set me wondering.

I started searching for any info I could get, or videos on You Tube, on the use of coping saws, and any I could find mentioned, recommended or showed cutting on the pull (not that there is none on pushing, I just couldn't find it) - except for Paul's, and if you look at his videos where he uses a coping saw shows him using it on the "push" mode.

As I don't dare even dreaming of disputing Sellers know-how, I am now a little puzzled.

So, how do you people use your coping saws - on the push, or on the pull? And why?

G.

 

[custard]

Time served British craftsmen mostly seem to favour cutting on the push stroke with the coping saw. I guess if you're used to that rhythm with western hand saws then why change? It works just fine either way so stick with what you're comfortable with.

 

[blackrodd]

I was taught to use a coping saw cutting on the push stroke, as long as you but decent blades, Bahco or similar,
And let the saw do the work it's always been ok.
Rodders

 

[CHJ]

I think it all depends on the quality of the saw frame and its ability to put adequate tension on the blade, cheaper frames are best used as a hand fret saw frame in pull mode where the blade is pulled, like most thin kerf Japanese saw blades or a broach in metal work relying on the tensile strength of the blade/cutter to keep it straight.

If the frame can't apply a tension equivalent to the forward resistance of the cut then the blade is going to collapse/bend because of the applied pressure in push mode.

 

[Billy Flitch]

I was also taught to cope on the push stroke.Coping skirt, chair and picture rail on the push stroke leaves any break out on the back of the joint, cope on the pull stroke and you bring the break out to the front of the joint which makes it look untidy and scruffy.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Maybe I'm a bit of an oddball because I use coping saws with the teeth facing both ways, all depending on the job. Mostly I cut with the teeth pointing towards me, for example, if I use this method for removing waste between tails and pins in a dovetailing job. On the other hand, if the marked line is on the show side, and I want to minimise splintering, as in Billy Flitch's example I'll frequently set the teeth to point away from me. Although, as others have pointed out, I think the strength of the frame is a key factor in making a choice, and weak frames generally work better, i.e., fewer buckled blades, cutting on the pull stroke. Slainte.

 

[GLFaria]

Well then, it may just be the combination of my poor technique with a very ordinary saw frame, which is just a 6mm diameter bent steel rod. I will probably need get me a more robust one.

Anyway, if you look around in the non-pro world, be it the real or the virtual one, I believe you will find many more proponents of the pull method (which only goes to confirm that a fair amount of what you find in You Tube may be just, let's say, misinformation)

Thanks for all comments

G.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've always used a coping saw on the push stroke and a fretsaw on the pull stroke. Never really understood why, if I'm honest, but there is lots of good reasoning above.

 

[sdjp]

I've always used a coping saw on the push stroke and a fretsaw on the pull stroke. Never really understood why, if I'm honest, but there is lots of good reasoning above.

Isn't a fretsaw, like a jewellers piercing saw, typically used on a bench peg, with the blade vertical? In this case, in addition to the tension aspects, it pulls the workpiece into the support, meaning that the off hand is used to position, but need not hold, the workpiece.

I don't know if that's a reaction to a lower tensioned blade; or if the cutting position developed first allowing a lower tension … but most fretsaws I've seen tend not to be the highest tension saws...

 

[mailee]

I have always used one like a fret saw on the pull stroke. I always hang the piece over the edge of the bench and work with the saw vertical cutting on the pull stroke. Wrong or right it works for me and just feels comfortable. :wink: