COMP063 WIP Photos - Chisel storage - Update Resaw

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Those hand cut dovetails are looking very nice, Andy. It's also good to see someone else using those Veritas 'squares' for marking out. I really like how you can quickly make a simple reference mark onto the end grain which guarrentees accuracy when squaring across.

I don't have a project for the competition myself, but incidentaly, I began my first attempt at proper dovetailing earlier today - and I can tell you, it took me long enough just to mark it all out! :shock:

I've already cut one of the treads for my stool and I have to say I'm very pleased with the results so far - even though there's an awfully long way still to go!! I bought an 8" Footprint pad saw from D&M last year, brilliant. :)

Andy, did you scribe the lines with a knife before cutting?
 
Who needs a bandsaw?

I have been somewhat apprehensive about resawing this board into door panels but after trimming the ends and cutting in half it was still long enough for two spares if I cocked it up so I thought I'd give it a go.
oakboard.jpg


With the blade at it's highest I was left without about 2" to cut by hand.

DSCN4679.jpg



I started with the ryoba but found it difficult to keep straight.

DSCN4680.jpg


So out came Bertha, I have never used this saw before and I am sure it could do with a sharpen but it cut through this oak without trouble and in a straight line.

DSCN4681.jpg


A quick smooth and this is the result. The medullar rays are as distinct on the left panel but do not show up in this photo.

DSCN4682.jpg


This took about 2 hours and I worked up quite sweat removing the inevitable ridges and wayward hand saw cuts but I am pleased with the result.

Just the door frames, chisel holder hinge support doodah and the curve to do and 24 days left. Oh and the finishing.

Andy
 
Andy, that looks great. Nothing like a good bit of bookmatching. Especially on something like a nice bit of oak.
Andy
 
The photo of sawing the oak in half looks familiar - one of my least liked jobs.
Always worried that the blade grabs the wood and throws it back at me.
:shock:
These days I have taken to cutting the board into two or three lengths and then passing them thought the saw and re gluing. I loose about 2.5mm due to the blade thickness but most of the time it's hard to see the cut.

Looks like you hand planed the raised material away. I always find that it takes ages and I can't get it as flat as the P/T, possibly my method is wrong.
Nice work so far.
Andy
 
Andy,
I am glad that the resawing went well - also that the rays are there as well - it is difficult to be sure if they will match in such a situation, they sometimes just disappear.

The dovetails look great BTW
 
<i>
Only after cutting the end of my nose did I remember I had a dozuki - a lot safer and stiffer I should have used it from the start.
The other problem with both these saws was the thickness of the kerf. Too narrow to use my coping saw for waste removal.
</i>

Not so; 2 altenatives exists for you; either a fretsaw blade, held in a jewellers saw frames (where the blade IS small enough) or a "Y" cut with a coping saw.

The "redundant" vertical cut with the coping saw goes fast.

http://www2.gol.com/users/nhavens/htmlfile/dt3-e.html

BugBear
 
Bugbear you are quite right or course,
in the parallel universe that is my workshop nearly everything I have ever read/learnt read tends to get forgotton as soon as I smell sawdust.

Another reason I regret chopping out so much waste is the tendonitis that I still have in my right arm :x

Andy
 

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